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For the last four years or so I have been running the front calipers from a 2002 WRX. Even with a wagon prop. valve I was dissatisfied with the amount of front bias. These things are clearly a matter of preference because many drivers with the same setup are no doubt satisfied. I on the other hand wanted a change.

Since I was due for new pads, rotors and rear calipers I decided to do the whole shebang. I really want to do the 4/2 pot setup but only if/when I decide to invest in 17" wheels (and find a spare $1,500!) For the time being here is what I decided on:

-Remanufactured Legacy Turbo calipers
-ATE PremiumOne front pads
-GranSport 6 rear pads
-Brembo rotors
-ATE original fluid
-Sedan prop. valve

The goods:


Sticking caliper anyone?


I spent an afternoon doing everything and I am very happy with the results. The car seems so much more composed and braking seems much better with rear calipers that actually work.

My only complaint is the vague pedal feel which will hopefully be corrected with a single diaphragm brake booster sometime in the future.

Just thought I'd share my experience.

Thanks for sharing.

In my opinion the WRX front brakes NEED to be complimented with a larger rear rotor setup, the non-vented H6 setup or the new Legacy GT rear vented rotor. Both are the same diameter, and help shift some of that bias rearward. This puts the balance more like how the stock brake setup is.

Legacy777 wrote:Thanks for sharing.

In my opinion the WRX front brakes NEED to be complimented with a larger rear rotor setup, the non-vented H6 setup or the new Legacy GT rear vented rotor. Both are the same diameter, and help shift some of that bias rearward. This puts the balance more like how the stock brake setup is.

When you say 'new Legacy GT', which gen are you referring to, or is there a write-up here?

Is that the blue ATE fluid? I asked about brake fluid with dye in it and the parts store guy had no idea what I was talking about. I was bleeding my girlfriend's brakes and wanted to know for sure when the new fluid was coming out.

They don't sell it at any auto store around here. Gotta get it online I guess.

I thought about upgrading the brakes but don't want to risk messing with the brake bias either. So I'll just put new rotors on and run hawk or ebc pads for better braking.

Yea, I had the 12.9" LGT rotors/calipers up front, and they definately made me stop haha, I would have eventually bought the rears as well, but all I could afford for a winter rim/tire set-up was the stockers with some nice tires. I am probably just going to get some nice pads, since my rotors/calipers are still just fine. For now that is, I will certainly buy all 4 corners later on.

kimokalihi wrote:Is that the blue ATE fluid? I asked about brake fluid with dye in it and the parts store guy had no idea what I was talking about. I was bleeding my girlfriend's brakes and wanted to know for sure when the new fluid was coming out.

This is just ATE original fluid which is amber in color. I had ATE Superblue in there before (although you can get Superblue in an amber color at some places). Alternating colors really help.

It seems the name of the game is to compliment a front caliper upgrade with a rear, something to balance out the change in bias.

That'll help but the brake bias will still be off due to different weight balances of the vehicle and overall weight difference.

epicfail wrote: When you say 'new Legacy GT', which gen are you referring to, or is there a write-up here?

2005+ turbo Legacy GT

Subaru_Nation555 wrote:This is just ATE original fluid which is amber in color. I had ATE Superblue in there before (although you can get Superblue in an amber color at some places). Alternating colors really help.

It seems the name of the game is to compliment a front caliper upgrade with a rear, something to balance out the change in bias.

Just a note about the blue fluid. It can dye the system, which can be a pain. But yeah, they have the blue & amber so you can switch back and forth so to know when you have got all the old fluid out.

Valvoline synpower brake fluid is the best brake fluid you can buy at the least inexpensive amount. IMO, the boiling point difference between the valvoline fluid and the ATE & Motul are negligible for a street car. The costs are not.

kimokalihi wrote:That'll help but the brake bias will still be off due to different weight balances of the vehicle and overall weight difference.

How so? The larger rotor/brakes are adding brake capacity to the vehicle. You are simply changing the braking force ratios between front and rear to get the desired bias. That is what my brake math spreadsheet shows.

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... kemath.xls

Legacy777 wrote:Valvoline synpower brake fluid is the best brake fluid you can buy at the least inexpensive amount. IMO, the boiling point difference between the valvoline fluid and the ATE & Motul are negligible for a street car. The costs are not.

How right you are. The Valvoline is roughly $8 or $9 a liter and the Superblue is $15 usually more a liter. I certainly never reach the limits of my brake fluid.

I use the Valvoline, too, and brake fade was the only real issue I had stock (with performance pads) when coming down heavy from speeds over 110 or repeated hard application, like a winding down hill road, so I only wanted the bigger brakes as a bigger heat sink. I thought with the wagon's proportioning valve and rear weight it would be fine, but I would've stayed stock if I had known. Guess this means bigger rears now. Another thing to add to the list, but at least I can get it on he road without that.