legacycentral bbs

Ok so got everything in and running. but


CEL I first got codes 22 ,33

cleared codes now I have 22 and 51

Also, it surges bad in 2nd gear...not the tranny, the engine.

on a side note my temp guage is pegged once the ign is on reguardless of true temp


help

ok this is wierd. drove it with the at/mt id wire hooked back up for a couple miles, then unhooked it again, it seems to have helped. the cel isn't on all the time but it does show up here and there. I think its just a slow learner.


still not sure about the temp guage though

temp gauge wire may be pinchec. try dosconnecting it at teh sending unit adn see what it does. If it stays pegged I'd say shorted to ground someplace...

wwhere is that located

The temp sender for the dash in in the engine coolant crossover. If you didn't do anything with the engine, it shouldn't have affected the temp gauge.

I would start by double checking your wiring and making sure everything is correct, and not pinched as well.

ok unplugged the temp sender and boom gauge went down. you know I may remember it sending odd temps to me at some point before the swap..... although another thing is that even with it pegged I dont get the fans on>?! does it tell the fans to run?

No, the ECU runs the fans, and it gets it's temp reading from the other, bigger 2-wire temp sensor in the coolant manifold. The small one is only for the gauge.

what do you think the chances of both sensers going bad at roughly the same time are? I over heated a few days before I started the swap due to a air bubble in the system.

If it went down when you pulled it I'd say the sender is bad, if the fans aren't running I'd swap out the ECU sensor too. Overheating can do wierd things...

Try unplugging the ECU temp sensor and see if the fans come on.. On my wife's wagon the fans did work, disconnected they came on. Swapped the sensor and all good again. I thing I got it at Car Quest for $26...

ok unplugged the single wire thermometer and the guage went down. went this morning and bought a new thermosenser and a coolant temp sensor and replaced them. Same issue!

so my thoughts are these. I've gone over the total swap and checked for pinches and found nothing. So my other thought is what is inthe rest of the B15 connector that would have an effect on the coolant meter? was there a AT temp sensor or something? maybe I got something wrong. The thing is my reverse lights come on which leaves only the neutral switch that I possibly had wired wrong...but to what?

oh also I should mention that the car start reguardless of weather or not the car is in neutral. I didnt do the relay thing. also just did the pin 18 at B36 snip to no effect

Pin 18 at the B36 connector only affects the neutral light on the gauge cluster from going on.

What happens if you unplug the B15 connector all together. You probably won't be able to start the car, but if you put the key in the "ON" position, you should find out if the coolant gauge gets pegged. If it does, then you know it's not an issue with that, and it's some where else.

Based on this diagram, it sounds like you have short or a wire grounding out.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... n-USDM.zip

Do you happen to know the ciolor of wire pin 18 is on the B36 plug?


I unhooked the B15 whilke it was running and the temp guage stayed pegged. Now I have noticed that the fans turn on ...I think I just never let it run long enough for tem to turn on. so at least I know it's just a guage iussue.

Another thing is that I did take the guage cluster off and fiddle with it to cover up the gear indicater lights so maybe I messed with something there.

ok swapped the guage with a manual temp and fuel . seems to have done the trick as far as the temp is concerned.

Now on to the cels. so lets see ...TPS and Knock sensor. I highly doubt these went bad on me at the same time but who knows. I've got a manual ECU enroute which should be here in the next couple days. It's from a 92 so maybe that will take care of the CELs. gonna work on closing up the vacum leaks and replace some hoses sometime this week so Ill post more later.

I would think you may have messed up a wire or something in the gauge cluster.

What do you mean you "swapped the gauge with a manual temp & fuel" Did you swap gauge clusters, or just put in separate gauges?


Can you provide some additional details on the car? What year, and is this a turbo or non-turbo car? If non-turbo, the 90-91 injectors are different than the 92-94 injectors, and as a result you need to run the appropriate ECU with the injectors.

I would check the wiring going from the knock sensor in the engine bay to the ECU. That wire can get brittle and crack.

TPS, check the resistance on the TPS, I've posted links to the factory test pages in other threads. There's a recent thread with this info in the engine forum I believe.

just swapped the manual temp and fuel nguages out of the cluster.

it's a 94 turbo wagon

I've checked that wiring next to the firewall like three times. Ill hit it again today just to make sure.

the tps was just changed a couple months ago...but ill check the readings.


any color info on pin 18 anyone?

oh the manual is out of a 92 ss

Light green with a yellow stripe

sweet thanks. I'm in the proccess now of adjusting the tps. I tested it yesterday and some of the resistance readings were a little off. I'll post the results tomorrow morning

well adjustment isnt able to fix a bad tps sooo off to find another

umm......


I'm speachless.

so while researching tps stuff I came accross some info reguarding how if a tps goes bad...your torque converter won't lock up in your auto tranny!!!!

I started this mess due to what I thought was a bad 4eat.


soo......anyone need a perfectly good running 4eat on the cheap? lol

Update

replaced the tps with a used one wow what a difference.

still throwinga couple codes knock sensor and neutral switch.

dyslexia kicked in and I cut a yellow with light green!! so found the green with yellow and fixed all that.

now on to the knock sensor. took it out to clean but as I unplugged it the engine ecu side of the plug the wire pulled rght out!! upon mor inspection that wire had the ground sheilding touching the wire!!. so repaired that, cleaned the sensor, remade my own connector and started her up. CEL went off!!!

YAY so now waiting 15 min to clear the ecu and gonna drive the thing. I have very high hopes

Cool...Glad to hear things are looking good.

just drive it in check mode and if you have no codes it will clear the ecu.

as far as your temp sensor. if it's not oem, it wont work right. i've tried 3 different non oem sensors and they all read different and/or just shot straight up to redline. oem ftw.

this has already been fixed. now just dealing with fuel cut. I had a fcd in the glovebox from the prreviious owner (tasq) that I'll throw in l;ater tomorrow