legacycentral bbs

Am replacing the head gaskets in a '97 2.5 outback

2 questions:
1. What size bolts fit the little holes in the crank pulley so I can make a holder tool to make it easier to remove the crank pulley nut.

2.Once my timing belt marks are all lined up do I really need to make something to hold the camshaft pulleys from turning before I take the belt off ? I'm gonna take the sprocket off in order to remove the cams to access the head bolts ?

Thanks

1. Don't know the size of those, but easiest way to get it off is put your socket and breaker bar on there, brace the breaker bar against the frame, and blip the starter. Oh yeah, make sure the plugs are disconnected . You can also just jam the flywheel through the inspection hole.

2. Yes, unless you are really that good.

Okay I understand locking the cams to remove and replace the belt.

But since I'm doing a head job, once the belt comes off I need to remove the locking tool to take the cam sprocket off. Won't the camshaft turn when I do that anyways ? At least the upper left one (intake) What am I missin here ?

thanks

You really want to use the alignment tool when you disassemble, and I honestly can't imagine not using it on reassembly.

With the crank gear lined up to it's timing mark, the pistons are half way to TDC on all 4 cylinders (I believe). At this point the cams on the driver's-side head should be loaded (i.e., valves open, ready to go) - this is the dangerous bit on these motors when removing the timing belt. You need to be careful not to let the cam suddenly unload in the wrong direction, or you'll bend your valves. To unload them safely, you need to use the alignment tool to hold the gears while you take the belt off, then turn the driver's side top cam counterclockwise and the bottom cam clockwise nice and easy. Then go about your business, and remember to turn them back in the correct direction upon reassembly.

Really I have never used any holder for the cam sprockets when taking off the belt. The cams should not unload while you are taking the belt off unless you are manhandling it. Slide your pin through the tensioner, remove it, then remove the two idler pulleys on the left side, then remove your belt. After the belt is off, unload the right side cams, I actually move the top one clock wise and the lower counter clock wise. Dont worry if the cams unload on thier own, I have had them do it to me atleast a dozen times and no harm came from it. Just remember that the top right timing mark on the belt does not line up perfectly with the one on the cam gear.

Hmmm - who is right fishbone or deucer ?

I do think I'm supposed to rotate the top cam counterclockwise and the bottom one clockwise to unload the left (drivers side) cams from what I've read elsewhere.

Personally, I'd want something to keep the cams from unloading. It doesn't take much to bump things and have the cam sprocket move on you.

Legacy777 wrote:Personally, I'd want something to keep the cams from unloading. It doesn't take much to bump things and have the cam sprocket move on you.

Murphy's law says that you should probably use the alignment tool... They can be had online for ~$30.

The top D-side intake cam is definitely rotated counterclockwise to unload.

(4) Align single line mark on left-hand exhaust camshaft
sprocket with notch on belt cover by turning
sprocket counter-clockwise (as viewed from front of
engine).
B2M0697A
(5) Align single line mark on left-hand intake camshaft
sprocket with notch on belt cover by turning sprocket
clockwise (as viewed from front of engine).
Ensure double lines on intake and exhaust camshaft
sprockets are aligned.

I have always gone opposite because that is what I was told in Subaru training, but according to Subarunet I guess I am doing it backwards. Oh well, ive never done any damage. I know lots of people doing it my way and never had a bent valve while doing a timing belt. Of course if you are rotating the cams and you have slight resistance, its just common sense to stop.

I don't worry about the drivers side cams "unloading", after 100's of DOHC belt replacements. Why? If the cams are "unloading" you are actually closing the valves. They only open up 3/8 or so. Put a tool on the cam sprocket bolt if you want to slowly move the cam to relieve tension. (belt off) The drivers side cams will only rotate an 1/8 to quarter turn to "unload". The passenger side is of no concern when the belt is removed in the timing belt project position which is crank keyway at 6 o'clock.
Don't make the project harder than it needs to be and don't be afraid of a timing belt replacement. If you're good enough to get a look at the installed belt and put the crank keyway at 6 o'clock, most of your troubles have just disappeared.
As to getting the crank bolt off, I use a screwdriver at the flywheel/flexplate without hesitation on all Quad cam work. It's surprising to see the simple force this creates.

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