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Hi everyone. I purchased a 1991 legacy 2.2L fwd about 4 months ago. When I first got it everything was perfect. Two days later though the check engine light came on when I turned on the car. Then the code eventually went off (soft code). But then it came back and never left. I tried to run a MODIS on it to find the issue but it wouldnt make a connection. Then I brought it to Pep Boys (a bad decision I know) and after 2 hours of them struggling with it they told me it was the oxygen sensor. I replaced and tried to clear the code but it was still there. After doing research I found out that if you plug the two wires under the dash together then it blinks in a code to tell you whats wrong. It is giving me two long blinks and one short one which I found out to be the water temperature sensor. I replaced both sensors, coolant, and the thermostat yet I still cant get rid of the code. Also the radiator fans are always on starting immediately when you put the car in the start position. Both sensors are getting the appropriate voltage. I'm wondering if I got a faulty sensor but whats the chance that the first one goes bad and the second one is faulty? Also the canister purge solenoid valve code came up. I know that it is bad because there is a lot of pressure at the gas cap. Could one of these set the other one off? I am very lost and in need of help because I haven't smogged the car and the DMV won't give me another extension. I no longer have a form of transportation. Thanks!

Are you sure you replaced the right sensor? Did it have a red connector with 2 wires going to it? There is one sensor for the gauge and one for the actual ECU reading.

I actually replaced both. And yes it had the red connector

I have a 1993 Subaru Legacy L AWD Wagon with the same problem. Haven't been able to get it to quit either.
Also, I just bought this car a couple of weeks ago and the check engine light was already flashing the codes at me. I assume the previous owner left the two black wires connected, but for the life of me, I can't find the damn things. Then I unpluged the battery overnight and this morning the light just flashes until the car is started. Then after a few seconds, it comes on steady. What gives?

The black and green wires are tucked under a little bit of tape. The green connector is a T shaped clip while the black one is a tiny rectangle. They are also both single wire clips. I would send pics but I cant figure out how to do it on this forum.

You have to upload the pictures to a picture hosting site, which will then give you a URL for the picture. You would want the URL that has IMG and /IMG in it.

SC

I found the green connectors. They were just hanging there. The black ones are MIA.

They connectors may be on the other side of the steering colum. Here's a pic of the connectors just so you know what they look like

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... cuhide.jpg

Are the wire for the black connectors black as well. I found two wires without the black plastic connectors that are hanging down, they both have the male ends that fit into a female spade connector. About 3/4" long each.

They should like exactly like what is in my picture.

did you check the coolant level ?
is there a hard start when the engine is cold ?
when you cleared the codes did you hear the relay clicking prior to the check engine going on?
the relay could be faulty if you dont hear it clicking and if the fan is constantly on try taking it out tapping it and seeing if the fans come on or it could be a problem with the ac pressure switch

I just flushed the coolant. The car sort of has a hard start when I turn it on but thats mostly to a Red Line fuel cleaner that just made things worse. I dont hear the relay when I turn on the car so I will check that and the ac pressure switch.

Mine has a hard start when cold. Coolant lvl good. Will have to check relay in morning.

most likely it is the sensor itself if it keeps on giving you the code 21 i had the same problem .
are you sure you dont have air in the system ???
btw some people like myself had problems with aftermarket thermostats and radiator caps . autozone sux for both btw
my radiator cap would not close completely and the thermostat did not work at all idk why

I'll check that as well. Also, not only does it ha ve a hard start when cold, but after it's running, if I give it gas before it warms up a little, it studders and trys to die unless I let up or really give it to it.

I have the exact same issue but i thought it was because of the fuel system cleaner I put in. Also I decided to check the fan relay. When I put the car in the start position I hear it click on and when I turn the key all the way off it clicks off after about 3-4 seconds. Although if when the car is in the start position and the fans are running I turn the key only one click back, one fan click off and the other stays on and then slowly dies away. What is going on with my car???!!!

Well my canister purge solenoid valve is supposed to arrive tomorrow. I know that should have nothing to do with my current issue but we can all pray right?

BUMP.....My problem hard start problem was solved with a battery replacement.

bump. mine was solved with a bent prong in the water temp sensor connector

That figures. Goes to show that the Keep It Simple principal usually applies.

yeah. there is still some hidden issue where the engine light comes on when the car is really cold (over a night of 45 degrees or lower), but then it goes away when it warms up. One of those annoyingly hidden issues.