How To: Motor Mount Replacement
Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 3:55 pm
Tools needed:
14mm socket and wrench
Various extensions
Ratchet
Small 2x4 piece of wood
Floor jack (or transmission jack)
Pry bar
Ok so when I got the Legacy, it had a certain.... disconnected feeling about it when I accelerated. It turns out, the motor mounts were in the excellent condition you see here
That first one was completely separated and dry, meaning all the fluid from inside had long ago been drained. The passenger side (#2) was just barely holding on by a few mm of rubber and had just a little bit of fluid in it, though I think it was power steering fluid.
I picked up the STi Group N mounts for it. They are solid rubber, and decently hard. These should work on every Subaru with an EJ series engine.
So first, get your mind right. Have a V8
Once under the car, you'll need to remove the lower motor mount nuts. they takes a 14mm socket and extension.
You will then use your floor jack or transmission jack (if you have a lift) to raise the engine 2-3 inches. Place the 2x4 on the jack pad and raise the engine using the oil pan. You may have better luck by unbolting the transmission crossmember mounts as well, but mine were bad as well so it didn't keep the engine from raising.
You will now have better access to the front and rear motor mount bolts on the engine. These also take a 14mm socket. The rears are a PITA, and you may have to use your 14mm wrench if you weren't able to raise the engine enough.
This is the passenger side mount compared to the new Group N mount. Quite the difference eh?
Repeat for the other side.
Once you have done this, you will have to reuse the nuts from the OEM mounts to attach the Group N mounts to their mount plates. They can only fit on the plates one way, so it's hard to mess this step up.
Installation is reverse of removal; Note the Right and Left mounts. Tighten the bolts attaching the mount to the engine to 25.3 ft-lb. Here is where the pry bar comes in. You will need to lower the engine to get the studs on the mounts back through the crossmember. If you are lucky, they will seat right back where they came. If you are like everyone else, you will have to work around the engine, raising, lowering, and prying to get it to move rearwards back to its proper location.
Once it's there, tighten the nuts holding the mounts to the crossmember to 61 ft-lb.
Lower the car back down and go for a smoke test! Did you let any smoke out? Hopefully you didn't, and now you can enjoy your newfound throttle response!
14mm socket and wrench
Various extensions
Ratchet
Small 2x4 piece of wood
Floor jack (or transmission jack)
Pry bar
Ok so when I got the Legacy, it had a certain.... disconnected feeling about it when I accelerated. It turns out, the motor mounts were in the excellent condition you see here
That first one was completely separated and dry, meaning all the fluid from inside had long ago been drained. The passenger side (#2) was just barely holding on by a few mm of rubber and had just a little bit of fluid in it, though I think it was power steering fluid.
I picked up the STi Group N mounts for it. They are solid rubber, and decently hard. These should work on every Subaru with an EJ series engine.
So first, get your mind right. Have a V8
Once under the car, you'll need to remove the lower motor mount nuts. they takes a 14mm socket and extension.
You will then use your floor jack or transmission jack (if you have a lift) to raise the engine 2-3 inches. Place the 2x4 on the jack pad and raise the engine using the oil pan. You may have better luck by unbolting the transmission crossmember mounts as well, but mine were bad as well so it didn't keep the engine from raising.
You will now have better access to the front and rear motor mount bolts on the engine. These also take a 14mm socket. The rears are a PITA, and you may have to use your 14mm wrench if you weren't able to raise the engine enough.
This is the passenger side mount compared to the new Group N mount. Quite the difference eh?
Repeat for the other side.
Once you have done this, you will have to reuse the nuts from the OEM mounts to attach the Group N mounts to their mount plates. They can only fit on the plates one way, so it's hard to mess this step up.
Installation is reverse of removal; Note the Right and Left mounts. Tighten the bolts attaching the mount to the engine to 25.3 ft-lb. Here is where the pry bar comes in. You will need to lower the engine to get the studs on the mounts back through the crossmember. If you are lucky, they will seat right back where they came. If you are like everyone else, you will have to work around the engine, raising, lowering, and prying to get it to move rearwards back to its proper location.
Once it's there, tighten the nuts holding the mounts to the crossmember to 61 ft-lb.
Lower the car back down and go for a smoke test! Did you let any smoke out? Hopefully you didn't, and now you can enjoy your newfound throttle response!