legacycentral bbs

https://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/prod ... hj5qt56is4

worth the money? Im assuming its should work similar to a tb spacer so maybe it should free up a little extra power. I mean the cooler airflow the more hp that is made.

anyone have any experience with these maifold spacers?

thanks

You'll need these ones, not the ones you posted.

https://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/prod ... hj5qt56is4



I don't have any experience with them other than I have them installed on my EJ20G which is not running yet.

so how did they seem quality wise?

also I have 2.2l not the 2.5, didnt the impreza have the same 2.2 as the legacy?

I could be wrong but I thought our engines had the inline bolts. The quality is nice but mine chipped in one or places when I removed the manifold.

Hey just a heads up, you can get the phenolic spacers on rallysportdirect for a little bit cheaper

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/gr ... -4101.html

57.19

That's a lot cheaper lol

but do they have them for a na 2.2l? I couldent seem to find them anywhere on that site.

Thanks

Hey CJ, that link you provided is for the 3mm spacers, not the 8mm which is probably the reason for the price difference.

good point, i should learn to read lol.....

It happens. I've made far worse mistakes on the interwebz before. One time I was shopping for a soundcard for my pc on newegg and got one and then when I got it I didn't recognize the name of the car or the brand at all. I bought the wrong card on accident. It was still a good card but not the one I wanted but I just kept it anyways.

Anyways, those phenolic spacers will make a difference but whether or not it's noticeable is unknown to me. I read a review a guy did on his mazda with some phenolic spacers and his review was positive and he didn't have a temp gun but said before after running the car to operating temp driving around the manifold was really hot to the touch. Afterwards he said it was still warm but he could touch it and it was only warm.

I don't know how well of a thermal decoupler the phenolic material is but I went the extra mile and bypassed the coolant lines through my throttle body and mounted my coolant reservoir tank with plastic mounts to keep the heat from passing into the manifold. I'm also going to heat wrap my exhaust and possibly get a turbo blanket.

I bet if you search NASIOC you can find a lot of people who have experience with these spacers on their WRX motors.

Ya ive been searching and reading manly positive things, Im just wondering weather there will be any power increase.

I just did the throttle body mod and I did notice a slight power increase, power seemed more consistant overall. So I would think between the throttle body mod and manifold spacer I should be freeing up some extra power

Kind of off topic but if I'm gonna be ripin apart the mainfold to put in the spacers would it be worth it to powder coat the manifold? I'm tryin to keep things cool as can be

How about doing a little port and polish work on the mainfold? I'm just thinking if I let this 2.2 breath a little more it will help me pull harder on the straits durring autocross

I would gasket match the manifold and then have it Extrudehoned. You will get more flow and cooler inlet air temps as the smoother walls of the manifold will transfer less heat to the intake charge. I have mine sitting here that I have done the gasket matching to, but haven't sent it off yet to be extrudehoned yet. too many other things taking precedence right now.

Jeff

Well that was somewhat useful... im going to jump on that back yard turbo asap too..

As far as keeping intake temps low - I'm not sure how much you'll gain on a NA because you're not heating your intake air beyond atmsopheric like you do with a turbo. So your heat differentials should not be as much.

That said, if you want to really cut your heat down then I'd suggest the route I've gone. I don't have the car running yet and I can't say if the money was worth it or not so take this with a grain of salt. I have the 8mm phenolic spacers, I've had my intake manifold ceramic coated, the coolant cross-over pipe ceramic coated, thermal sleeve over the coolant tube that runs under the manifold to my coolant tank. I've also ceramic coated the headers, up-pipe, wrapped the downpipe and a blanket for the turbo. This is likely excessive for heat control (though the exhaust work is dual purpose due to my turbo, i.e. spool times). However, I feel pretty confident I've kept my intake manifold temps as low as I can get them passively. This does all carry a cost though. All my coating, wrapping, spacers, etc. has totaled around $600.

I think you'd see better gains with a NA to take the $200 you'd spend on coating and spacers and get some cams for the motor. It'll be a little more work to put in but you'll pick up more HP for the money I think. For the same price you could also pick up some OBX equal length headers off ebay and that'd let things breathe better.

Just some food for thought.

Nah, getting new cams would be easier to do than removing the intake and putting phenolic spacers under it or coating it. Much better gains too, I didn't realize he was going to put this on an NA car. I wouldn't even bother with it for NA.

i can't even fit the phenolic spacers on my car... there's only a small crack of space between my hood and my coil pack...

Oh, it should fit. My hood did not close either with these spacers. Had to mount my coolant reservoir tank a bit lower to clear the hood and also had to do a bit of pounding with a sledge hammer on the hood but it closes now.

You used a custom coil pack mounting bracket though right? So that might be a bit higher than stock.

Okay so cams, do I have to pull he motor for the install? Anyway to install them without pulling the motor? Would I need anything to go along with the cams? Or are they a strait plug and play thing.

With cams will I lose all my lowend torque? I would love to be making more power from like 3-5k rpms But still have decent off the line power

As far as the cams, talk with Delta Cams about their 220 grind. It's the milder grind and is setup for a street/daily driver so it does keep a bit of the low end. I think you will lose just a little, but not much, and it will be offset considerably. If you want the 3k-5k gains, these would be the ones to go with.

As far as pulling the motor, you will have to. One head lets the cam go in from the front and the other end the cam has to go in from the back. I don't think you have room to pull the cams out the back due the firewall unless you pull the motor. Someone else can verify this.

As far as supporting mods, there are none if you get the 220 grind. Just install them, put everything back together like you took it apart, and go. No fueling or other engine management issues to deal with.

I don't know if the jury is out on whether you can or can not pull the cams with the motor in the car.

From having mine out, I think the cam that is pulled out the rear of the head would have enough clearance, it's the one that is pulled out the front that may not have enough clearance (it's actually a little longer).