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Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Posted: Mon May 17, 2010 5:13 pm
by vica153
One of the bearings under the timing cover is squeeking like mad. I figure I'll replace everything in there while I'm at it since going to be driving across the country in 2 weeks.
Is there a good place to get these parts other than the dealer?
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Posted: Mon May 17, 2010 5:57 pm
by Legacy777
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Posted: Mon May 17, 2010 11:06 pm
by BSOD2600
Legacy777 wrote:Online subaru dealer
<insert site here>
Heh most/all of the main online subaru part stores are just various Subaru dealers parts stores doing online discount sales.
subarugenuineparts.com = Chaplin's Bellevue Subaru (WA)
subaruparts.com = Tacoma Subaru (WA)
subarupartsforyou.com = Dan Perkins Subaru (CT)
etc...
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Posted: Mon May 17, 2010 11:28 pm
by vica153
Yeah i think I'm going to just get everything from SGP, i like giving Jamie a hard time. I'm finding all the part numbers now. I'll post them up just to make sure i get everything.
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 12:39 am
by vica153
Timing belt
Front Cam seals
Front Crank seal
Valve cover seals
AC & Alternator belts
Timing belt cover pieces that the hillbilly mechanics broke
All that is going to run around 175.
Now at first I figured I'd just replace all 4 idler pulleys and sprockets, but that would be close to 300. So I think I may get it apart, see which one is bad, and get it locally.
I think I'm going to pull the engine, so I can replace the clutch at the same time and have plenty of space to mess with a timing belt for the first time. Do you think there are any other bits I should do while I'm at it?
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 6:05 pm
by Legacy777
If you're going to pull the motor and do the clutch, you may want to look at replacing the rear oil separator plate if it's plastic. I think only the 90-91 motors had the metal plate.
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 5:11 pm
by 94.GT.Wagon
If pulling the motor and doing the clutch you should also do the rear main seal and re-seal the oil pan or install a gasket, whichever you prefer. Also make sure that when you get the valve cover gaskets that you also get the grommets that go on the bolts. Now is also a good time to do water pump/thermostat.
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 2:07 am
by vica153
Ok, but only if you come up from Kzoo and help.
One thing I kinda want to do is replace the water pump with one compatible with the OEM oil cooler, but the more things I think of the more I worry about having it back up and running for a 2300mile drive on the 31st.
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Posted: Sat May 22, 2010 12:44 am
by 94.GT.Wagon
Where are you at? Your sig just says MI.
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Posted: Sat May 22, 2010 5:01 am
by vica153
Fixed. Most of my parts came today, so now I just need to track down an engine hoist to get this party started. Pulling engine is something I've done a bunch of times now. Its easy, once things get rolling if should be a fun weekend..........hopefully.
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 5:47 am
by vica153
Found the source of my timing squeek. The tensioner pulley. The bolt it rotates on to apply tensions was very rusty and squeeked when the pulley rotated.
Plus the tensioner seems pretty worn out. Its supposed to require over 100lbs to get it to budge right? Mine is going all the way down with using maybe 50lbs tops.
O and my easy piece of cake engine pull went all to shit just because of one downpipe nut getting stuck.

I swear no matter what anti seize I use on the turbo-to-downpipe bolts, there is always one that is stuck. I ended up having to disconnect the passenger side axle, getting the engine as high as the downpipe would allow to get enough room to really bash on the nut.