legacycentral bbs

ive been listening to the ticking for a long time, almost a year. ive been told its lifters but the haynes says the 2.2 doesnt have lifters, i dont know if it does or not. the ticking is loudest when ive driven somewhere, gotten it to normal operating temp, turn it off for about a half hour, and them it ticks like mad. i get looks from old people every now and then.

sound clip(its a video i took with my kodak digital camera)
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The Haynes book is wrong. There are most definitely lifters.

Removing the valve covers and rocker assembly to get at the lifters is pretty easy. You can remove them, and try to bleed the lifters. If you identify any that are bad, you can replace them.

They might call them lash adjusters in the Haynes book. I can't remember.



They can do that when you are due for an oil change. I've had it clear up many times with fresh oil and a filter. They do get stuck too.

93forestpearl wrote:They can do that when you are due for an oil change. I've had it clear up many times with fresh oil and a filter. They do get stuck too.

they still tick even when the oil is fresh

You can pull them out and replace the lash adjusters that are stuck, or try to soak them so they free up. It's not bad to get them out with the motor in the car. I've done it a few times on my '93 beater and my sister's '95.

dude open your timing box and see if any ball bearings fall out thats kinda what my idler pullies sounded like when they broke

93forestpearl wrote:You can pull them out and replace the lash adjusters that are stuck, or try to soak them so they free up. It's not bad to get them out with the motor in the car. I've done it a few times on my '93 beater and my sister's '95.

i had been thinking it would be easy to take them out so i might attempt to do them next weekend

92legacyL wrote:dude open your timing box and see if any ball bearings fall out thats kinda what my idler pullies sounded like when they broke

just to make sure i know what your talking about its the black plastic pieces that cover the timing belt, right?

yes u can only get the two sides the middle is in place behind the crank pulley

Well, without removing the middle cover you won't have access to the idlers.

ya but probably where the noise is coming from is the idler bearing all u gotta do is jack one side up and then take the side cover not jacked up check for the ball bearings

i took both side timing covers off, nothing fell out and it sounds like the ticking is coming from the right head which is easier to take apart. would it bee worth it/ a good idea to buy heads from the junk yard and re-build them then swap them out, and what all would i need to get if i just took the valve covers and rockers off to look at the lifters/ lash adjusters?

If it's the lifters, you don't need to remove the head, just take the valve cover off.

Hydraulic lash adjuster are the same thing as valve lifters, except these operate directly between the valve stem and rocker arm instead of between a cam lobe and a push rod. Subaru likes these little guys because they save valve train weight and are inexpensive by comparison.

To determine if hydraulic lash adjusters are causing clicking noises, remove the valve cover (3 screws). Next depress the ends of each rocker arm to see if something feels "spongy". If so, your clickety is probably due to collapsed / stuck HLA's...

Removing the HLA's is pretty straight forward. First, remove the rocker shaft assembly (8 screws) starting at the center and working in a criss-cross pattern to the outer screws. Then, with rocker assembly in hand, sqeeze each HLA to determine the bad ones. Next, pry only the bad HLA's from their sockets using a small screwdriver. There will be a little resistance from an o-ring that must be popped out of it's groove.

Examine the HLA ends for wear. If no wear is found, soak the lash adjuster in kerosene while depressing the plunger and ball to remove varnish build up.

There is a trick to bleeding these. You hold the lifter with the check ball side up in a can of oil. Then while holding the check ball open with a hex key, you push down on the plunger end and release. Next, test by squeezing both ends with your fingers. If it is firm, it's ready to go, but if spongy, repeat the process. If it can't be pumped up after a thorough cleaning with the kerosene, it's time to buy a new HLA.

Be sure you put all the valve train components back in their original location as these are "worn in". Smear oil on all rubbing/sliding parts to provide start-up lubrication. Fill each HLA socket with oil before installing the HLA and depress one more time to make sure it is firm.