legacycentral bbs

The other weekend, I downshifted from 3rd to 2nd going around a street corner. After releasing the clutch and applying the gas, the rpms went up a lot but my speed didn't increase. I did a double-take to make sure I was in gear and I was. Released and engaged the clutch again and I was off. A block later I smelled the lovely smell of my clutch burning.

Few days later, onramp to the highway, floor it in 3rd (or was it 4th?), rpms go up faster than they should, smell of burned clutch, and I feel some jerking. Great, clutch is going out.

I really don't want to dump another $1K on the clutch job. Thinking about going with the EXEDY OEM Replacement Clutch Kit (Part Number: KSB01) and resurface the stock flywheel. Thinking about pulling the transmission instead of engine too. Need to get/rent a transmission brace/jack.

As I've never done a clutch replacement, any suggestions/tips?

What about a stage 1 Exedy? Your clutch might not be toast, but with a 16G you were probably flirting with it's threshold.

I recommend something with a little more holding power over stock.





Personally, I like to pull the engine when replacing a clutch without a lift. I hate taking the transmission in and out with the car on stands.

Yea, I thought about the stage 1, which is another ~$200 over the OEM. I'm also somewhat leery about it 'cause I don't want to kill this transmission by using the stage 1... heh although it would give me a good reason to swap in the 4.11 5MT sitting in my garage.

Unlike many of ya, the SS is my daily driver, so that limits me on what I can/can't do

I did a clutch job on a wrx by just pulling the engine forward. Honestly seems easier to remove the motor then the tranny.

It is easier. Removing the trans is a bitch. You can probably get away with just removing the fans from the radiator, unbolting the engine from the tranny and the mounts and disconnecting any wires or hoses holding the engine in place and slide it forward.

Assuming you have an engine hoist.

yeah definately easier to remove/pull engine forward.

That seems to be what everybody says. For some reason, i still ended up pulling my trans. I went with part number ksb03 on amazon. Its the wrx clutch. 228mm over 225mm or something like that. It ran me like $160 bucks.
Definitely remember about the clutch pin fork. Mine was so jammed i couldn't pull the allen hex bolt thing with a breaker bar and pb blaster. What ended up working was a torch to the trans housing to get it to expand a little. Also, don't connect the t.o. bearing till the trans is bolted back to the motor. Just push on the fork till you hear it click. PM me if you got questions, i think i remember you were in Lynnwood too no?