legacycentral bbs

Hey guys. Got my trans swap done. I'm working out a few small issues. Car had a CEL before the swap for code 13 & 22 only. The car is a 91 legacy turbo, w/ a 96 wrx 20g swap. Its got stock 22t ecu and its wasted spark. I checked for codes and i got code 13, 14, and 22. Here is what the codes mean in my obd1 car.
13-cam angle sensor No signal entered from cam angle sensor, but signal (corresponding to at least two rotations of cam) entered from crank angle sensor
14-Injector #1 Fuel injector inoperative (Abnormal signal emitted from monitor circuit)
22-Knock sensor Abnormal voltage produced in knock sensor monitor circuit.

The car ran fine till code 14 showed up, and now its running on 3 cyl. I pulled the wire at the coil pack (with engine running) and noticed a weaker spark than the other 3, but there was still spark, although at times it wouldn't spark for a few seconds. I pulled out the spark plug and it was dry (after engine just ran). I fired it up w/ the plug out of the head, and it didn't smell of fuel at all. So I'm thinking that injector stopped working? How can i test.

I also have a set of USDM sti injectors i can swap in. Will they fit? Or do i need some adapter kit? Also, can the other two codes cause code 14?? Thanks for your time.

My other questions are, will the knock sensor of my 22t car bolt up to the 20g? Also, code 13 is cam angle sensor. How do i go about fixing that? Is that interchangeable as well?

UPDATE

This is the update from rs25. I'll just post it here so you all know where I stand.
"Hi guys . I REALLY need some input on what can be the problem on my so spark issue.

Car is a 91 Subaru Legacy SS. It has an EJ20G swap on stock harness and the stock 22t ecu. (not to confuse but the car has had the swap for a while and ran). This whole issue started by me shorting something out. What i was doing was moving my ignitor from under the tmic, and accidently touched the positive terminal on the starter motor. Saw a big spark. So i KNEW i blew a fuse. Went to start the car, and sure enough it doesnt. It cranks and cranks but no spark @ the coil pack. (yes the car is still wasted spark, not coil on plug)

So far this is what i've troubleshot: I've swapped out off my other turbo leg the coil pack, the knock sensor, the cam sensor, the ecu. I've checked all my fuses in the main box under the hood, and in the kick panel inside. They are all good. I'm gonna pull all the fuses off my other car and replace them just for good measure. I'm also gonna probably swap the crank sensor too.

So can/will anyone help?! I'm stumped, and would like to make it out to WCSS today or tomorrow. Thanks in advance.
~Florin"

You should pull it at the cylinder, not the coil. That will eliminate the guessing on the condition of the plug wire. Try pulling the injector clip off and see if it changes the idle. I thought I had code 14 and I pulled the clip and it took a dive and then I figured out it was actually code 24 and misread it. Which was a atmospheric pressure code I think.

Sweet you chimed in. I need to ask you some q's. But first: I tried both ways. Its a spark issue on that cylinder. i can pull each plug and motor dies except for the one plug. I swapped coils, and its doing the same thing on the other one as well. I'll get a vid. brb

Oh and i was gonna ask about ur injector swap. A guy on nasioc is saying that my sti's will drop right in. You say otherwise. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=2041233

The reason i ask, because i might wanna do an injector swap to make sure its not the injector.

video of my issue http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNuyyp47E3I

Have you checked the igniter? Have you checked your grounds?

After FURTHER review when bringing the plug wire back close to the coil pack, the "bad" one sparks the same as the rest of them. So that takes me back to square one.
Which is, how do i test if the injector is firing, and how do i test if it is getting a signal... I have a multimeter, and a test light...

No i have not. How do i check the igniter? As for the grounds, i have not. I did, however have a ground break during the trans swap and haven't fixed it yet It was the ground that came from the harness to the frame rail, on the driverside, just below the battery. The one that bolts to the frame rail. But the car drove fine the day before with it still broken.

I think you normally use a noid light when checking the connector, this is a lil' light bulb looking thing that you plug into the connector and it flashes each time the circuit is grounded( from the way I understand it, anyway). I'm not too savvy on electrical stuff so I'm not sure about how to use the test light to check this. I think the connector should have constant fire to one pin Key On Engine Off/On and the other should be grounded on/off/on/off and so on while the motor is turning(pulse width?). Any ole test light should be able to see the constant fire at the one pin, a good test light should be able to check grounds aswell. The test light I have uses 2 leads(1 pos/1 neg) and has a circuit board that lights a red light when it sees fire and a green light when it sees a ground path. If you have a test light like this then you should be able to check both connector pins. As far as the injector itself goes, you can check the internal resistance across the pins and compare to the other injectors.

Like I said, I'm not too savvy with electrical stuff so maybe someone else can chime in give better/more accurate addvice.

You really shouldn't pull the plug wire off the coil like that. From what I've heard and read this can damage a coil(IDK). The ground path for the ignition system is actually through the spark plug threads into the block, that's why it started sparking when you put the wire closer to the coil. You should pull the boot from the plug and insert a spare plug, then set the plug close to a ground path, like the manifold, alt. bracket, or whatever.

More than likely you have a bad connector. But I really don't know much about anything so you should probably get someone elses opinion too.

Good Luck, Brian

I missed that last post. I would start by fixing that ground you mentioned and see how it responds. Also, I think the ECU uses the crank sensor or cam sensor or both to determine when to inject fuel. So maybe your cam sensor code has something to do with this. Have you tried resetting the ECU and seeing which codes come back?

I would fix the ground you know is bad, then reset the ECU and see what comes up.

Brian

yeah i swapped the ecu off my other turbo, and those are the codes that instantly came on.
I just screwed something up. I was putting the test light in the injector harness and accidently touched the maniford and caused a short. Blew a fuse. Problem is, i cant find it. Any idea where the fuse/relay is located? I couldnt find anything in the kick panel or under the hood. Nothing is labeled that would come close to injectors. The only fuse would be ignition, but its not blown. Car wont start at all now. just cranks. Dang it!!

I've gotta sleep, soon. I'll check tomorrow about the fuse, I thought I remember seeing a EFI or something fuse on the inside kick panel, can;t remember. Looks like you have fire to the connector, or had anyway, but ground signal is just as important. I burnt a fuse once and it killed the fuel pump, if I remember correctly the radio and fuel pump share the same circuit, it's been awhile. You may want to check all the fuses, even the ones you think aren't related, make sure you test both sides of the fuse.

Later, Brian

Theres a fuse on the kickpanel that says engine something did you check that?

Florin1 wrote:yeah i swapped the ecu off my other turbo, and those are the codes that instantly came on.
I just screwed something up. I was putting the test light in the injector harness and accidently touched the maniford and caused a short. Blew a fuse. Problem is, i cant find it. Any idea where the fuse/relay is located? I couldnt find anything in the kick panel or under the hood. Nothing is labeled that would come close to injectors. The only fuse would be ignition, but its not blown. Car wont start at all now. just cranks. Dang it!!

if you're referring to the one inside the car in the fuse box, its labeled "ENG IGN" and is a 15amp, than yes i checked.
I'm searching on this site for "injector fuse" or "injector relay" but get nothing... SO frustrating

Florin1 wrote:Oh and i was gonna ask about ur injector swap. A guy on nasioc is saying that my sti's will drop right in. You say otherwise. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=2041233

The reason i ask, because i might wanna do an injector swap to make sure its not the injector.

Well if you have the same EJ20G rails that I have, the guy doesn't know what he's talking about and is just trying to sell you some injectors. You need to buy an injector adapter kit that allows you to use phase one rails with phase 2 injectors.

http://www.carldavey.co.uk/product.php?id=2

Great guy and he makes solid good quality parts. I'm using them with 550 sti injectors right now.

Florin1 wrote:Sweet you chimed in. I need to ask you some q's. But first: I tried both ways. Its a spark issue on that cylinder. i can pull each plug and motor dies except for the one plug. I swapped coils, and its doing the same thing on the other one as well. I'll get a vid. brb

That's weird that your engine dies when you pull an injector clip or spark plug wire.. Mine doesn't. It only drops rpms and then picks up but sounds a bit different.

Florin1 wrote:After FURTHER review when bringing the plug wire back close to the coil pack, the "bad" one sparks the same as the rest of them. So that takes me back to square one.
Which is, how do i test if the injector is firing, and how do i test if it is getting a signal... I have a multimeter, and a test light...

To see if the injector is working just pull the connector on it. If there's no noticeable difference, it's not working. If it's working you'll hear the idle drop significantly and stumble or it will die like you said.

found the blown fuse. It was one of the 30A green ones in the main fuse box.
Ok, back to what my issue can be...

kimokalihi wrote:

Florin1 wrote:After FURTHER review when bringing the plug wire back close to the coil pack, the "bad" one sparks the same as the rest of them. So that takes me back to square one.
Which is, how do i test if the injector is firing, and how do i test if it is getting a signal... I have a multimeter, and a test light...

To see if the injector is working just pull the connector on it. If there's no noticeable difference, it's not working. If it's working you'll hear the idle drop significantly and stumble or it will die like you said.

Yeah i did that and no change. So what i'm trying to figure out now is how to test my injector and my harness to see where that problem lies...

Ok, just did a resistance check on the injectors, and there is a definite difference on the suspected injector. I was getting ~11.3 ohms on first 3, and there was no reading at all on the suspected one. So is this definitely my injector, or should i test the harness as well?

Your problem the INJECTOR. Replace it.

yeah its just gonna be real hard finding someone that wants to sell 1 440 graytop. TODAY. haha. I guess i have to go about it the really long way. Pop in my sti injectors with new rails, and also drop in my Robtune ECU after i do my conversion which i'm having a little trouble following...

i had some 25d fuel rails that the sti's bolted right in with. So i got that covered.

But while i was doing that, i was moving my ignitor and harness from under the tmic and i touched the starter positive terminal!! Saw a spark(s) and now i cant get the car to start again. This time there is no spark on any of the wires... What have i done? The fuses checked out ok... :.( I'm never gonna make it to WCSS

if your using a stock 22t ecu and maf, just swap 4 22t injectors in and dont beat on it unless u know ur afr's are right.

i'll be happy if i can just get her to start at this point...