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So i just tried to start my car and it made more of a clunk and nothing, like the starter couldn't turn the motor over. So i rolled it down my driveway (10ft) and tried to pop started, and it was like i slammed my brakes. I new this wasn't normal. So i popped the hood, and put my 22mm on the crank and tried to manually turn it over, and couldn't. As i would try to turn it, i heard a slight weezing from RH bank. So i pulled the plug, and turn the motor again, and WATERFALL of gasoline comes out
Having said that, can my recent ordeal and 525 injector swap caused this? Here is that thread http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=44787
I know the car was running rich, but to fill up my cylinder? The other cylinder on the same bank, btw, was dry. I have not checked the LH bank.
The interesting part, it was the same cylinder that had the dead injector. Does that mean anything? Also, after my injector swap, the car ran fine at first, but progressively started running worse and worse, and by yesterday, it was putting out some serious raw exhaust fumes even at idle. And it was taking longer and longer to start the car the last few days, so i figured it was my plugs getting fouled up from all the fuel but who knows now...

Hope you didn't bend a rod. You should turn it through at least 6 blades after letting it sit at all.

Sounds like the injector is leaking.

can the force of the starter bend the rod? and how will i know? How can i test the injector for leaking?

Sadly, I'll bet you anything the injector O-ring got torn or pinched during the install. If the lower O-ring doesn't seal, there's nothing to stop fuel from being pumped right into that cylinder. You might not have damaged anything...but MAKE SURE and change the oil before you start your car.

The force of stopping the car using the rod can easily bend it. You'll know it if you get it running again, but before you even try, manually turn the engine over.

yeah the engine turns over manually, no problem

One more thing, did the car start at all before it locked up? If it only stopped the starter from turning rather than stopping a motor trying to run, you probably didn't bend anything. If that piston looks the same as the others through the spark plug holes, then you might as well check/change the injector O-rings and motor oil, and see what happens.

Unfortunately, that's not a guarantee it's not bent, but these are forged crank and rods, so . . . I don't think you'd get an accurate gauge of how far the piston comes up by sticking something through the spark plug holes and comparing them to other cylinders.

evolutionmovement wrote:Unfortunately, that's not a guarantee it's not bent, but these are forged crank and rods, so . . . I don't think you'd get an accurate gauge of how far the piston comes up by sticking something through the spark plug holes and comparing them to other cylinders.

yes, the car started before. The motor is not the ej22t. It is a ej20g swap if that makes a difference

Shouldn't make a difference. The EJ20 will be a little more resilient due to the shorter rod length, but I doubt it's enough to make a difference. You'll have to sort the injector first.

evolutionmovement wrote:Shouldn't make a difference. The EJ20 will be a little more resilient due to the shorter rod length, but I doubt it's enough to make a difference. You'll have to sort the injector first.

Different rod length?

Aren't the EJ20s shorter stroke? Even if they aren't, it probably makes no real difference in this case.

There is always the possibility of a slight bend that may allow the engine to work seemingly fine but cause issues down the road.I agree with worrying more about the attempted jump start as a cause.

Yeah, definitely sounds like a leaking injector o-ring that let gas dump into the cylinder.

Fix the o-ring issue, pull all the plugs, disconnect the fuel pump, and turn over the motor with the starter a few times.

where can i disconnect pump at? Or is there a fuse?

I'm not sure where the fuse is, but you can disconnect the pump itself pretty easily. Just behind the rear passenger seat is an access cover. There are two of them in the trunk area, one on the drivers side, one on the passenger side. The passenger side has the fuel pump under the cover. Take out a few screws and then you can just disconnect the pump itself.

This is really easy if you don't have carpet in your trunk, if you do it's just a couple more screws.

The easiest way is to disconnect the electrical connector under the rear seat on the passenger side. It's a rectangular plug and will be under some black foam tape stuff. Just unplug it.

SLODRIVE wrote:Sadly, I'll bet you anything the injector O-ring got torn or pinched during the install. If the lower O-ring doesn't seal, there's nothing to stop fuel from being pumped right into that cylinder. You might not have damaged anything...but MAKE SURE and change the oil before you start your car.

BINGO!!! Right you were sir.