legacycentral bbs

when attempting to "clear the codes" method, i attatch the black connectors together and the green connectors with the ignition off, then turn the ignition to the on position .. however right >here<before i m able to depress the accelerator pedal for a moment, the fans begin to oscilate in sync with the check engine light every 1/2 second.

if i continue to depress the pedal now, it makes no difference and the fans continue to oscilate with the check engine light and when i run the engine, the check engine light begins to flash 5 quick flashes, pause, then again 5 quick flashes. It continues to do this throughout the drive above 10mph and this drive is krap, it becomes very hard to keep from stalling and after i park and check for codes - they are not clear, after turning off and disconnecting the connectors - then reconnecting the black ones to check for new codes, they are still there

is this telling me somthing i m supposed to know ?

no matter what i try i m unable to clear the ECU codes

even after the 1hr battery dance

HeJp please.

>> 98EJ25D n/a in a 91SS5mt c\w 91SS5mt ECU

You didn't mention which codes are still there.

The fans cycling is normal. It's supposed to do that. The 5 blinks is an indicator that you still have a problem.

Please post what codes come up when you plug in the black connectors.

11 crank angle sensor No signal entered from crank angle sensor, but signal (corresponding to at least one rotation of the crank) entered from cam angle sensor
13 cam angle sensor No signal entered from cam angle sensor, but signal (corresponding to at least two rotations of cam) entered from crank angle sensor
22 Knock sensor Abnormal voltage produced in knock sensor monitor circuit
32 Oxygen sensor Oxygen sensor inoperative
44 Duty solenoid valve (Wastegate control) Duty solenoid valve inoperative
49 Air flow sensor Use of improper air flow sensor

the thing is, i m able to drive around all day, performance is not so hott, sloppy at best, so i m a bit thrown - seems the car runs better just before its warm opposed to being fully warm or cold

What codes are displayed if you connect just the green connectors?

In my experience with CEL codes, you should not have to clear the codes if everything is working correctly, the codes should go away automatically. When I did my o2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, knock sensor, purge solenoid, all the CELs for those problem went away when they were replaced, and have not come back. You are probably still having problems which is why you cannot clear them. You cannot just clear the codes and expect everything to be fixed, if these codes keep reoccurring then I would look more into fixing the actual possible problems and stop trying to just cover the problems up.

by Jessekrs123 » September 3rd, 2010, 11:20 am

In my experience with CEL codes, you should not have to clear the codes if everything is working correctly, the codes should go away automatically. When I did my o2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, knock sensor, purge solenoid, all the CELs for those problem went away when they were replaced, and have not come back. You are probably still having problems which is why you cannot clear them. You cannot just clear the codes and expect everything to be fixed, if these codes keep reoccurring then I would look more into fixing the actual possible problems and stop trying to just cover the problems up.

well..obviously.. "they climbing in yo windowz , snatching yo people uupp". J/k maybe then you may explain why the engine is operational yet still throwing code 11 and 13 ? I m not sure how to "cover the problems up".

This car has new fuel filter. i ve tested 2 o2 sensors, 4 knock sensors and I ve just finished soldering all connections good and tight for anything that was previously weak. The vaccume is tight, the grounds sanded, i just cleaned the MAF for the second time this week. Its a turbo ECU running a EJ25D N/A powerplant and i understand there will be issues. This is engine #3 and i want it to run smoothly.

I know you can't polish a turd. Covering a turd with paper only makes it look ok. its still gonna stink tho.

Josh I will post the green codes later today , i m waiting on brakes to arrive before i test again

with just the green connectors together i get the same as before, 5 flashes, pause, 5 flashes with the engine running,

when the engine is not running then just the fans cycling on /off

anyone care to share some insight ?

when the check engine light is on , i have to use the accelerator like there is an egg under the pedal

if i tramp it is like fuel cut, like when i stab the pedal for example

i am able to clear the check engine light by swaping out the knock sensors and it will idle, but as soon as i attempt to use the accelerator the code is thrown again after 1100 rpm , this happens on each knock sensor i swap in

i don t imagine i have 4 faulty sensors ?

any insight is appreciated.

Thanks to Josh, Matheww044 and I just ran a new line for his KS to fix it. We could clear his code but it would immediately come back.



We also tried:
- My KS - No luck
- Rewiring his existing KS (it broke off as he tried to unplug it) - no luck
- ??

Used a Radio Shack Mic cable and connected to the plugs @ the ECU - Signal and Ground, and then we soldered the other end to the harness plug (not the KS plug) and that finally fixed it.

That also 'may' have helped w/his other codes - IAC and Purge - not 100% sure. Regardless, he's code free after fighting it for a few weeks.

GL,
Td

Glad you guys got it fixed. The old knock sensor wires take a beating with the heat cycles and age, and can go bad.