legacycentral bbs

So i am still having problems getting the clutch to fully disengage on my 92 ss.

heres the run down:

i bought it in the summer with a blown tranny and a torn release bearing, so the clutch never work.

The previous owner said the clutch stopped working one day, he said there was a round spacer/bushing sitting between the slave cyl pushrod and clutch fork. He said that bushing broke is causing the clutch issue

is this true? i dont have one (just a pushrod) and would make a lot of sense if it did have one so the fork would make forward more and disengage fully.

the pushrod i have is just a straight rod, no bushing or spacer at the ends.

with the clutch pedal pushed to the floor, its disengaged enough to slip in gear for the starter to start the car. BUT not enough so you can shift gears freely while the engine is running.

but when you release the clutch it grabs like a MOFO

its a comp clutch 6puck sprung clutch for a 02-05 wrx


when i push the slave piston all the way back there is a slight gap (1/2") between the fork a push rod.

so if i put a spacer between rod and the fork so it sits snug between the fork and slave piston, my clutch issues would be solved right?

ps i reverse pressure bleed the system by forcing fluid through the slave cyl nipple.
btw i bypassed the clutch damper, its just a hose straight from the master to slave.

thanks for the help guys!

Hydraulic clutche setups are supposed to accomodate for variences and wear and should take up the slack and stop at a point further torward toward the clutch fork once the tension/force of the pressure plate is released.

If you depress the clutch and it engages the clutch fork, once you release the clutch, does the push rod stay in contact with the clutch fork? It should.

Do you have any free play at the top part of your clutch pedal? It almost sounds like your the push rod from the clutch MC is adjusted too tight.

Any more info you can provide will help.

ya i know what you mean by staying in contact, just like how calipers run at zero clearance. And yes the rod does stay snug against it, but you can push the slave back a bit after its released. Its like the slave cylinder is taking up to much slack, so the travel of the piston is reduced making the clutch not disengage.

as for the pedal adjustment, before it was actually too much slack, the pedal wouldnt go all the way back up, but when i adjusted it so it would extend like 1/4" or so the pedal feels perfect and like a normal car.

but the problem was it wouldnt fully disengage the clutch.

ps there are no leaks from the slave cyl or master cyl on from the firewall or externally.

Two things

First replace the old first gen hydro cylinders with a 02-05 wrx system(just did mine and holy cow what a difference)

Second I know it sounds dumb but did you check for the throwout bearing seat? Mine has come out of the seat partialy and left me with a really soft clutch.

damn i just special ordered a ss clutch master cyl, but if i changed just the slave cyl to a wrx one will it make a difference?

as for the throw out bearing i was under the impression that it locks against the ring on the female end of the release bearing that is premanantly attached to the pressure plate. the male end would be the part where the fork slips in to pull the release bearing and and that can be removed if you pulled on it sideways.

JZZ30 wrote:damn i just special ordered a ss clutch master cyl, but if i changed just the slave cyl to a wrx one will it make a difference?[/qoute] I would cancel that order. especialy knowing how much subaru costs for that master. To give you an idea I got a whole system used (only 60 k on it) for a 1/3rd of the price suby wanted for the SS master alone.

JZZ30 wrote:as for the throw out bearing i was under the impression that it locks against the ring on the female end of the release bearing that is premanantly attached to the pressure plate. the male end would be the part where the fork slips in to pull the release bearing and and that can be removed if you pulled on it sideways.

Dont Know about being able to release the fork by pulling on it sideways but my release bearing partialy seperated from the pressure plate. If it were me I would start with the hydrolics first (when you have them out push the clutch fork toward the rear of the car to make sure its set in properly. then if it's still a problem pull the tranny.