MAF may be bad, what are my options
Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 2:00 pm
Hey guys,
I have been struggling with stumbling issue since I bought the car a year ago. I had replaced the plugs, wires, air filter, and 02 sensor. The problem is far worse during cold weather, sometimes it will hardly rev when its around below freezing, but the problem is somewhat intermittent. After replacing all the cheaper parts, that all needed replacing anyway, I had diagnosed it as a bad MAF. I finally got around to pulling the codes (its not my only ride, and it ran well enough during the summer). Came back with 23 (air flow meter), and 32 (02 sensor, but I had already replaced it).
Engine Mods: Coffee Can, snorkel delete, gutted downpipe, cattless 2.5in mid pipe, and a STI axle back.
Enough history.
I have been researching for the last few days, mostly on this site, but it seems a lot of what I was reading was from as far back as 2004. Before I make any purchases, I was hoping to get some up to date opinions. I read that the factory MAF is basically maxed out with just the mods I have. Is this true? I have a TD04, TMIC, and 440s that I would like to put on it sometime soon, but I realize I would really need some fuel/ignition control at that point, certainly for the injectors.
Here is my dilemma. It is getting cold again, and I will need it running properly now. I don't have the money for a standalone or piggyback unit at the moment, but I don't really want to spend $150+ on a new MAF just to have it maxed out immediately. I plan on finding a standalone solution in the near future (leaning towards megasquirt at the moment). I have heard rumors that the car will run decently with a JECS MAF, TDO4, and 440s without any other control.
What are my options? Should I just suck it up, buy a new Hitachi MAF? Is it possible to make the JECS work? Is there some cheap fuel/timing control I have missed?
Thanks a lot guys, you have been really helpful and patient with a new guy here!
Vance
I have been struggling with stumbling issue since I bought the car a year ago. I had replaced the plugs, wires, air filter, and 02 sensor. The problem is far worse during cold weather, sometimes it will hardly rev when its around below freezing, but the problem is somewhat intermittent. After replacing all the cheaper parts, that all needed replacing anyway, I had diagnosed it as a bad MAF. I finally got around to pulling the codes (its not my only ride, and it ran well enough during the summer). Came back with 23 (air flow meter), and 32 (02 sensor, but I had already replaced it).
Engine Mods: Coffee Can, snorkel delete, gutted downpipe, cattless 2.5in mid pipe, and a STI axle back.
Enough history.
I have been researching for the last few days, mostly on this site, but it seems a lot of what I was reading was from as far back as 2004. Before I make any purchases, I was hoping to get some up to date opinions. I read that the factory MAF is basically maxed out with just the mods I have. Is this true? I have a TD04, TMIC, and 440s that I would like to put on it sometime soon, but I realize I would really need some fuel/ignition control at that point, certainly for the injectors.
Here is my dilemma. It is getting cold again, and I will need it running properly now. I don't have the money for a standalone or piggyback unit at the moment, but I don't really want to spend $150+ on a new MAF just to have it maxed out immediately. I plan on finding a standalone solution in the near future (leaning towards megasquirt at the moment). I have heard rumors that the car will run decently with a JECS MAF, TDO4, and 440s without any other control.
What are my options? Should I just suck it up, buy a new Hitachi MAF? Is it possible to make the JECS work? Is there some cheap fuel/timing control I have missed?
Thanks a lot guys, you have been really helpful and patient with a new guy here!
Vance