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Hey guys, not too familiar with the Subie engines, but I am mechanically inclined enough to fix my own problems once I know how. My problem is, wtf is a purge canister solenoid? I looked up the OBD and got a code 35, but I have no idea how to fix it.

Just for reference, I did just fix a code 31 (tps circuit bad) and now it's giving me this new code. Oh, and the car is a 91 n/a wagon, auto, fwd.

And I do have a parts 91 turbo car, so basically if you tell me what part needs replacing, I can swap it out because the turbo car ran fine before the transmission took a dive.

It's a solenoid related to emissions from the fuel tank. They tend to go bad over a some time. They are located under the passenger side intake manifold. You just need to replace it.

Here's a pic
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... P_2471.JPG

Thanks. I think I can find that easily enough. Would that stop the car from starting? I just bought this car, and the guy said it had a weak fuel pump. Well, I swapped it out with the one from my turbo, and it didn't fix anything. So I ran the OBD and it came up code 31, so I swapped the TPS, and it's still throwing fits not wanting to stay running, and not starting on it's own without some starting fluid. I hate using that stuff, but it's the only way I can get it to start. What else could be the problem if this doesn't fix it?

Code 35 shouldn't cause it not to start. However I'd check the purge solenoid to see if it's working. When you replace the TPS, you need to calibrate it via the throttle switch. Instructions are below.

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... sting3.jpg

That may still not be causing your starting issue. It may be an issue with the coolant temp sensor. Once the engine is started and running and up to temp.....if you shut off the engine, and start it again, does it start?

No, that's most of the problem. It will run OK once I do get it to start from being cold, but once it warms up, then it just dies. It's a REAL hassle to get it started again once it's warmed up. It will fire on the starting fluid, but that's about it. It won't actually try to run on it's own anymore.

Hmmm.....I'd probably suggest replacing the coolant temp sensor. They're about $20 from one of the online subaru parts dealerships, and can cause issues with starting/driveability.

Well, I think I got the TPS adjusted. There's a buzzing sound when I open the throttle a little ways, so I rotated the TPS until the buzzing sound came on at .35 and was off at .28. Is that right? Or did I completely screw it up? The car runs (kind of) but I still have to spray it with starting fluid and if I try to put it in gear or turn the A/C on or do anything that would cause the rpm's to lower, it just dies. What am I missing?

I'm really tempted to take my turbo engine out of my 91 sedan and swap it in this 91 wagon. I know for a FACT that the engine in that one runs perfectly. But I do still have to get this n/a engine running, so that's only a temporary fix.

THe buzzing the way you should adjust the TPS. You need to get a multimeter and check the resistance between pins 1 & 2. Here's the first two pages from that procedure which help indicate the proper terminal pins.

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... sting1.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... sting2.jpg


Do the tests again with a multimeter. Also, I'd suggest replacing the coolant temp sensor.

Ok, the coolant temp sensor comes in tomorrow, so I wasn't able to swap it out yet. Just to be certain, since the computer showed two different styles, it's the one with the multi-connector on it, right? Not the one with just a single prong on it? I guess if it's not the right one I'll just order the other one. This whole engine-not-starting crap is starting to drive me nuts!!

The single prong one is for your temperature gage.

Because you have a Subaru, you probably were already crazy. It's just making you more crazy.

kleinkid wrote:The single prong one is for your temperature gage.

Because you have a Subaru, you probably were already crazy. It's just making you more crazy.

... Does that mean it's even worse if this is my second Suby, and not my first?

kleinkid wrote:Because you have a Subaru, you probably were already crazy. It's just making you more crazy.

Its great to be crazy! Atleast I am not the only one!

You have had more than one Subaru? We're sorry, and we regret having to tell you this, but, your condition is serious. It is chronic, long term, and best of all terminal. This mental state will effect all of your relationships.

On a SS it is a good idea to relocate the purge solenoid control valve, out to a location where you can get at it easier.

Well, coolant temp sensor was replaced today. Didn't fix anything. Still not starting on it's own without starting fluid. And now, it's throwing more codes at me. Here's what I have:

24: Air control valve inop
31: TPS
35: Purge canister solenoid

I don't know how to fix a code 24. And I JUST replaced my TPS with the one off my 91 turbo. I'm assuming I calibrated it wrong.

Some slightly good news about it though, it will idle now in gear and with the a/c on, which is something it wouldn't do before. I adjusted my idle up a little to be around 1000 and it works fine now. Just can't get the dumb thing started!!!!!

Why won't my car start?!?!? I really must be crazy to have bought another Suby.

Did you readjust the TPS using a feeler gauge?

How did you adjust your idle up to around 1000 rpm?

Just a wild thought.....what happens if you unplug the MAF sensor and try starting the car?

Yeah, I used a feeler gauge for the TPS. I think I did it right. Think is the key word there. For turning up the idle, I just screwed in the idle adjustment screw (not the stopper screw).

I'll have to see if anything works tomorrow with unplugging the MAF.

I did notice that I have a nice leak in my radiator; so I get to replace that with the one from my 91 turbo. Yay. And this last time I had it started, it was running fine, and then just died out of nowhere on me. Would that be a sensor telling the ECU to kill the engine?

OK... so I unhooked the MAF. Funny thing... it starts right up, no hesitation at all, but only runs for about 3 seconds, and then dies. But it starts right back up again (did this about 7-8 times). Also, when I try to push on the throttle, it kills the engine immediately. Could a bad MAF be causing this whole fiasco with not wanting to start and stay running?

It might be the MAF. If you can get another one to test out, that may help rule that out as a cause.

Got two "new" ones on the way from guys in the parts shed. My turbo one didn't fix anything, but I'm not really surprised there. It looks totally different than the one I pulled off the n/a engine.