legacycentral bbs

I searched a bit about this topic yesterday and couldn't find a specific howto and decided to do a write up. It wasn't really a problem, I was just a big question before I pulled myself together and started unbolting stuff

This was done on an EDM 92 turbo, I'd suspect it's the same for all years except you may have an extra or miss a button or two.

1: remove ashtray and unscrew the three bolts.


2: unscrew the two bolts at the top of the center console and pull out the center console.


3: unscrew the 2 bolts on the bottom right of the dashboard and another two above the heater controls.


4: unscrew the 2 bolts above the instrument cluster and the one bolt behind the button to the right of the steering column. Also you can remove two bolts to lower the steering column considerably, I don't know if it is necessary but it does give a lot of room to work with.


5: unscrew the 2 bolts behind the buttons to the left of the steering column.


6: unclip the buttons and hazard light and you should now be able to remove the center of the dashboard.

7: and finally unscrew the 4 bolts holding the instrument cluster.



Pull out the instrument cluster and you are done.

8. Curse while re-connecting the speedo cable clip to the back of the instrument cluster.

Alrighty so there are differences, mine is electrical. But agreed, never removed or reconnected a speedo cable without swearing

BSOD2600 wrote:8. Curse while re-connecting the speedo cable clip to the back of the instrument cluster.

x2 !!!! there has got to be a trick to getting that back on easy

I now always disconnect the speedo cable at the tranny and shove some extra slack back into the cabin. That gives enough movement to be able to have the cluster far enough 'up' to be able to see where the speedo cable clips in.

BSOD2600 wrote:I now always disconnect the speedo cable at the tranny and shove some extra slack back into the cabin. That gives enough movement to be able to have the cluster far enough 'up' to be able to see where the speedo cable clips in.

Oh smart idea! I hate that cable. It's so hard to get back on.

Thanks for the how to. Yes removing the two bolts under the steering column so it drops is pretty much mandatory. You won't be able to get the trim piece out otherwise.

That's interesting about the speedo being electronic on the EDM Legacies. Hmmmm......I really would like to do away with my mechanical speedo and run a VSS input into my Link ECU and then run an output to the gauge cluster. I'll have to take a look at the overseas factory manual and see how it's different.

Not trying to resurrect this dead thread, just thought I'd chime in since I took my dash apart today to replace some lights and figured out a nice little trick for the speedo cable. I wasn't able to disconnect the cable at the tranny, so I took a piece of cable (actually it was an ipod USB cable since I couldn't find any string) and looped it around the metal speedo cable fitting. I got the instrument panel in place and then after I'd lined up the male and female ends, I pulled on the ipod cable while pushing on the instrument panel. The fitting tapers down so the cable gripped it well and I got in on in about 5 min and only swore once. After it went on, I just pulled the USB cable out from around the speedo cable. Hopefully this can help someone out in the future.

That's a good tip.

Thanks for sharing.

Interesting.

I was able to get the dash bezel (plastic trim piece) out without lowering the steering wheel, but getting it back in looks impossible without damaging some of the plastic. So I'll have to lower the steering column; should've done it pulling it out anyways.

Also, I was able to pull the instrument cluster out enough to change a bulb back there. I would've left it alone since I knew about the damn speedo cable, but since it was the bulb that lit up the area of 45-85 MPH on the speedomoter well, that is pretty important so I had to pull the cluster out enough that I could reach back there and get the bulb out and in.

Yes I have also taken off and put back on the dash bezel without unbolting the steering column but it isn't for the faint of heart.

I had my wife put my speedo cable back in. She has tiny hands so she did it in about a half hour as to where I was swearing up and down for about a day....

That dash bezel is pretty flexible, you can get it in and out with the without unbolting anything on the steering wheel easy enough.

And +1 on disconnecting the speedo cable. Unplug it by the transmission, don't unscrew, things a PITA to screw back in.

A little trick I recently discovered for the speedo cable, a small standly pry bar is the best thing ever for easily reconnecting the cable. If I remember, I'll take a picture or two of where to pull with the bar. Its the large silver bit that goes over the outside of the cable hook up on the speedo, you just "hook" the bar there and pull the bar while pushing on the cluster.

This looks like it would be a pain.. But I need to replace some bulbs.

How long did it take to remove and reinstall?

I also need to replaced bulbs and try to repair sticking speedometer.

Heres a picture to show how I use the small pry bar to EASILY reconnect the speedo cable.

All you have to do, after getting the bar positioned as shown above, is first line up the cable with the back of the speedo, then pull the bar towards you while pushing on the speedo side of the cluster. Super easy and takes all the hassle out of reconnecting the cable.

Removing the trim: Just take your time and move it around. I got it in and out twice. Both times without breaking anything or lowering the steering.

Once to replace the burned out bulbs. Then again the next day to replace the speedometer cable.

Definitely remove the cable at transmission end. When the retaining clip is released, it should slip off. Try not to lose the small spring under there.
If it doesn't come off, use a basin wrench (for changing sink faucets) or open ended wrench and pull the base off the transmission.

Have a question, for the switches to the left of the steering wheel, how do you get them out? Do you have to reach behind and colapse the retaining clips, or just pry them out?
And since I'm asking questions, how do you get that speedometer cable off the speedometer, since it looks like it has some retaining clips also. Thanks

Just yank the cluster out and it'll pop off. No clips like the tranny side of the cable has.

How about the switches?

I used a skinny flathead to pry them out. If you have the lower panel off you might be able to squeeze the tabs but it might be hard if you don't know where to press since you can't see them iirc.

Pictures no longer work. Anyone have an update?

You could try PM'ing or emailing the original poster to see if he still has the pictures. It looks like the domain name wasn't renewed.

I have some pictures of my dash removal with some of the parts mentioned in the first post. It may be a long shot, but might help.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... spdswap/18

I just wanted to add that I tried to use this and several other posts as a guide and was very confused by it.

So let me add my two cents here.


First to lower the steering wheel, and take the trim piece out, the bolts are on the left and right side of the steering wheel bolted up behind the plastic covers that are attached to the steering column. These are 12 mm bolts and I had to use a very long extension to get to them. Taking off the steering column covers helps to see where they are (I was initially confused by the two bolts on the side of the steering column and the return springs for adjusting the height).

I was able to remove the instrument cluster trim without completely unscrewing them, though I did not learn this until the second try. I will need to get in there a third time as one of the polarized LEDs did not go in right, so the light won't turn on for it.

I will probably take a picture if I do it a third time here for reference.

Additionally, I wanted to reiterate that in order to get at all the trim and instrument cluster screws I used a plastic trim mini pry bar to pop out the plastic covers for the defrost, cruise and a blank cover on the right side of the steering wheel.

Once I had those aspects figured out everything came out fine.





I replaced the instrument cluster lights with red LEDs, but am regretting choosing a less bright bulb (was recommended by a poster in another thread to go less bright) as now it does not seem bright enough when driving around town to see the cluster very easily even with the dimmer on max.

The two 194 bulbs I got were these:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo ... -base/199/

I thought they would work, as they were cheaper, and the lumen rating for the non colored LEDs looked to be the same as the stock lights, but something must have been lost when I chose the red color.

Eventually I will order the brighter LEDs here.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo ... -base/206/




Lastly, I have some questions.

The two bolts that hold in the ash tray toward the front must have been confused or lost upon re-installation and no one at the dealer was able to get me a part number to locate them.

I may have to go to a junk yard to replace them, but the other screws I had to try and use them did not seem to fit. Is there a trick to getting the outside trim piece between the screws and the ash tray that I am missing? I got the far back screw on, so the tray technically works with just that one on.


Also, has it been confirmed that the HVAC lights cannot easily be replaced with the 74 LED bulbs? I read on other threads that some one replaced the lights this way and by others that you need the factory bulbs if you plan to change them.

I did find this, but was not sure how much of the newer HVAC carried over to the old one.
http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.ph ... hreadid=91

I just wanted to make them match the new red I have in the cluster now.

Thanks guys!