legacycentral bbs

I just finished my rebuild sort of and got the car started. It smoked like a siv for a while but I figured that was because my headers had a bit of oil in them and so did the cylinders. It idled super high too. I found the vac leak was the line to the brake booster was backwards. Also it has a light oil leak from the back thinking it could be the rear seal which would piss me off. And then finally when I got back to the house the coolant reservoir I had fixed blew and sprayed coolant all over. So any help? will the seal become flexible and seal it up or am I taking in out again? Anyone have a reservoir? Maybe metal one? Help please.

Could the coolant lines into the firewall being swapped (not sure if they are) cause it to overheat?

Was the rear main seal replaced? If so, when you put it in was it flush with the flange?

Yes I did bearings, rings, seals, rebuild heads. Full tear down it was flush when I put it on

Another question how do you tell if the injectors are plugged in right? And which hoses goes where for the coolant on the firewall inlet outlet

I got the idle to drop and the brakes back to normal, I didnt know the brake booster hose was a one way.

Now it still leaks oil. Would it be easier to just unhook harness, intake, exhaust and radiator and pull engine or pull transmission to do seal? I don't want to use any gasket fixer inside my clean engine. Also with the coolant reservoir will another car reservoir work like a Honda or something like that?

Ordered my wrx coolant reservoir and JB welded the old one for now. I hooked it up and got 2 blocks away instead of one before she went hot. I have 3 codes on the dash 16, 21, 22. 21 is my temp sensor. Could this be causing it to get super hot and boil over? There is no coolant leaks from anywhere but the over flow tank is full and boils over. I wanted to try and get a new radiator cap too just in case.

codes 16 and 22 are injector 3 problem and knock sensor problem. I was not sure which injector connectors were which but I believe I got them right. Would it even run if they were connected wrong? I dont notice a miss at all. Also before my rebuild I had code 22 for the knock sensor and now the sensor is new so could it just still be in the computer and not been able to erase itself yet?

could having the coolant lines into the firewall switched cause it to overheat? I have been reading another thread about a guy having a horrible time with coolant issues but nothing solved. Or could it be air in the system?

wow you posted alot there in a short time.

First thing's first, dont start it again. go over what you did twice.

then you have a rear oil leak, did you use a little fujibond around the seal ? did you use a new oil air seperator plate and did you seal it with fujibond ? did you seal the oil pan and let it dry with fujibond applied? lets say half a day then evenly tighten all the bolts cross patter a little at a time ?

rad fluid..... did you bleed the system with the yellow funnel thing ( its a bleeding tool snap on ). you run the car fill the funnel till fans come on then cap it off and never open it ever ever again.

off the top of my head look at the motor right side coolant line to right side fire wall coolant line.... and other left side far left. right in, left out..

yes brake boost line only one way there is a valve in it.


i say its easy to take tranny out then motor.

Depends on if you like being under the car or not. I hate it and would rather pull the engine.

then you have a rear oil leak, did you use a little fujibond around the seal ? did you use a new oil air seperator plate and did you seal it with fujibond ? did you seal the oil pan and let it dry with fujibond applied? lets say half a day then evenly tighten all the bolts cross patter a little at a time ?

I've never put any sealant on the seals. I don't think you're supposed to. I used RTV on the seperator plate though which is what the FSM calls for. I also didn't do the procedure you mentioned as it doesn't say anything about that in the FSM that I could see. I just put a bead on it and bolted it on. No leaks.

I would pull the engine and find out exactly what is leaking and fix it. While you're at it make sure you clear the ECU of all the codes by unplugging the battery and pressing the brake pedals to drain the electricity out of the circuits. You should also strip back your knock sensor wiring as they often become brittle and break. I've had two break on this car. Once they get oil on the harness it goes to shit fast.

Sorry about so many posts totally tired and just wanted it out. I did not put any sealant on the rear seal. Which part is considered the seperator?

I did not use the yellow funnel thing. Does everyone have one? I will ask around see if I can borrow one.

I am pulling the engine I think tonight. I figure its easier then pulling the tranny bymyself.

I don't have one and I've never had a problem filling the engine all the way. Just fill it up. Run it to operating temp with the cap off filling it as the level goes down. Then keep checking it every day and adding more until it doesn't go down anymore.

The oil seperator plate is the big 6" plate that is on the left side of the engine behind the flywheel. It must be removed to gain access to the piston pins for pistons 1 and 3. You probably didn't even take it off unless you had removed your pistons. They do tend to leak, mainly if they're the plastic ones. You can replace the plastic one with a metal one if it's leaking but you have to get bolts for it to replace the ones that the plastic one uses because they're different. I think the bolts are the same as oil pan bolts for the metal one.

You can see the big plate on the right in this photo is the one you're looking for. You can also see the big main seal around the crank.

Plastic Version that is prone to cracking and leaking.







Metal version (old metal version)

Here's a picture with a part number for the new style metal plate that requires the different bolts.

If you're talking about the rear main seal, it doesn't need any sealant. Just lube up the inside with grease (the part that hugs the crank) and tap it into place slowly and evenly making sure not to push it in past flush.

Ok I know what the seperator is I have the aluminum one and I. Put a bead of rtv on it but I will check it and may get the metal one. I did not grease the seal I did make sure it was flush and went on straight.Would an air bubble cause it to overheat and just overflow into the overflow tank and throw code 21? Knock sensor is new

Just an FYI, you will need new bolts if you get the new separator plate.

Yep been said above a couple times but thank you

kimokalihi you can put fujibond on the seals very very very little, tricks of the trade my friend strong like bull after ! lol.

wait i should have said where to put fujibond around the out side of the seal's ring not in the inside.

Do you just put it around the outside?

yes very little, put a dab on your finger and smer it around. it just helps out in a long long term thing.

So I decided to pull the engine all the way out made a huge mess but I will be worth it. I took the driveplate off to see the rear seal and it doesnt seem to be leaking from there or the seperator plate. My oil pan gasket looks to be completely dead though (Note to self don't let someone else put on parts that need gaskets). I did not put lube on seal should I pull it to do so just incase it is leaking?

Also my torque converter moved a bit is there a way to tell if I toasted the pump or do I just wait until she starts?

Do not remove the main seal or the seperator plate. They look like they're not leaking at all. I'm not sure if it's possible to remove those seals without damaging them but I never have been able to so they need to be replaced if you remove them.

You said gasket on the oil pan, were you talking about the RTV or an actual gasket? The pan does not use a gasket, only RTV. Also, make sure you use less than in that picture. That's way too much and can break off inside and clog things up.

Ok so no gasket? I have one from my rebuild kit ill just use ultra grey sealant