legacycentral bbs

My car just started doing something funny a couple weeks ago, and i don't know where to begin when it comes to diagnosing the issue. I just recently hooked up my factory fog lights on my 1997 Legacy LSi, and since i hooked them back up. My car will die going down the road, it started by loosing power for a second or two, to now sometimes completely shutting down no matter what i'm doing. After i turn it back on, a light flashes that says "At Oil Temp." Also....when i try to adjust my side view mirrors, my security light to the right of my steering wheel (which is also factory) starts blinking. Same thing happens if i try to use the lights in both my driver and passenger visors. I don't know exactly whats going on with it. Does anyone have any clue?

Let's start with a little history. Why were the factory fog lights disconnected? How long have they been disconnected? Did you have any issues before hooking the fog lights back up?

If you disconnect the fog lights does your problem go away?

It kind of sounds like you have short somewhere in the electrical system related to the fogs.

ok, I have no idea why they weren't connected. I bought the car like that a month or two ago. So I don't know how long they've been disconnected.. I wasn't having any issues before i hooked them up, and when i disconnect the fog lights, the problem continues.

Kind of sounds like the previous owner was trying to possibly hide issues with the car.

Unfortunately, electrical shorts/gremlins take sitting down with the wiring diagrams and tracing/testing out wiring.

damn. that will take forever. where can i get the diagrams?

you know that sounds a lot like a dying alternator to me. if you have a multimeter you can read it with a load and with out and see if there is a big drop, or go to a auto parts store and use their neat battery/alternator diagnostic tool. ( its free to use at most auto parts stores)

The best thing for electrical faults is a power probe. It's a test light that tells you ground or power and also lets you apply power or ground to a circuit. Not cheap for what they are in terms of what they likely cost the manufacturer to make, but well worth the money in terms of time and aggravation saved if you plan on dealing with electrical issues.

Thanks guys, this all helps out a lot.

@Legacy777: I tried that link, but the Zip file and the text wont open at my work or home.

@sdersham: That sounds like it could be a possibility, because my car has a hard time running when my battery is disconnected.

On another note, I was getting one or two codes from my engine light, P0400 and/or P0403. Pretty much means their's something wrong with my EGR system. So I replaced the EGR Valve ($189.99) and the Pressure Sensor ($10 from Junkyard). Next i'll try replacing the Lower and Upper O2 Sensors (Upper $92.99, Lower $125.99). Everything is so expensive!!

Unlike some things for these cars, I suggest getting generic O2 sensors. They're cheaper and the only difference is that they come with longer wires and you have to put together the plug (or you can keep the old plug and leave a length of wire to splice into). Just get an O2 with the same number of wires (they come in 1-4. I would guess, being OBD2, you'd have 4, but it could be 3). A generic replacement for mine was around $60.

Oh ok. Are you refferring to the Bosh 3 wire O2 Sensor?

That's a brand. I might have gotten a Bosch, but I don't remember. Whatever Autozone had. You should be abe to get it with however many wires you need. A 3 wire should work with a 4 wire also as long as you splice it to the right wires as the 4th wire is a ground for the heating element, but the sensor can ground through the exhaust.

Awesome. I will probably try to get the O2 sensors from a Subi at a junkyard. The local junkyard just got a 96 Subaru Legacy GT that had thrown a timing belt, and they're pretty cheap their too.

Ok, so I had the alternator checked, and its good. I took my EGR Valve off, and scraped a THICK layer of sut out of it, and blew it out with an air compressor, then put it back on. I also replaced the ?pressure sensor?...i forgot the complete name of it, and since then, I haven't gotten the p0400 or p0403 code again (goin on 3 days now). Now i'm getting the code p0102, something to do with my MAF sensor. I looked it up, and read in another forum that someone else had the same code, and their car was also stalling, then starting right back up with out a problem (like mine does). He said he replaced the MAF sensor, and said he hasn't had a problem or a code for a week now.

As far as my security light blinking when i try to use my vanity mirror lights, Ciggarette Lighter Plug, and my Left and Right mirror adjuster joy stick.......i'm still completely clueless.

I will try relplacing the MAF sensor, and see if that fixes my car stalling problem. I will keep everyone updated in case someone else has the same problem.

TBFK wrote:@Legacy777: I tried that link, but the Zip file and the text wont open at my work or home.

So the link works and you can see the zip & text file, but you can't download them? What type of error are you getting?

Are you using different computers or the same computer? Try again and then send me a PM with the exact time you accessed them. I'll check my server logs and see if I can figure out what's going on.

Ok, so Instead of just replacing the MAF Sensor, I just went to the local parts store and bought some MAF Sensor cleaner, and cleaned my MAF Sensor. So far I haven't recieved any codes yet, and its been 2 full days. Normally it would have came on already, but it hasn't, and my car hasn't been dying while i'm driving.

I also bought an Oil Pressure Gauge, which I have to install inplace of my Oil Pressure Switch. But as far as that goes, i'm not sure if that will throw a code quite yet. So the way i'm going to find out, is by unplugging my Oil Pressure Switch and disconnecting my battery for 30 - 45 minutes or so, then reconnect the battery and start the car. If a code is thrown, i'll just have to take the Gauge back, unless, their is some way I can fabricate some kind of splitter so I can fit the Oil Pressure Switch and the Oil Pressure Gauge on at the same time.

I took my car to the shop this morning and dropped it off so the lead mechanic can start the car when it's cold, because everytime I start my car when it's cold, it sounds like it has a bad knock, then when the engine warms up, the knock (or whatever it is) goes away.

While I was waiting for them to finish looking at it, I called the local Subaru Dealership's Service Department, and the mechanic said that it's common because the 2.5 NA motors use Cork Skrew Pistons, and get piston slap they the get older, and it happens when the engine is cold.

However, the mechanic that inspected the engine today said that it sounded a lot like a lifter was ticking, and to change the oil every 1,500 miles with Lucas Oil.

So with all that taken care of. I just have to figure out how to fix the problem with my Security System that isn't allowing me to use my side view mirror swith, vanity mirror lights, or my cigarette lighter. I'm not very good at finding and fixing electrical problems, so I hope this is some what quick and simple. If any one has any tips you could pass on to me, i'd be very gratefull.

TBFK wrote:Ok, so Instead of just replacing the MAF Sensor, I just went to the local parts store and bought some MAF Sensor cleaner, and cleaned my MAF Sensor. So far I haven't recieved any codes yet, and its been 2 full days. Normally it would have came on already, but it hasn't, and my car hasn't been dying while i'm driving.

Well, here I am 5 days later, buying a new MAF Sensor. Cleaning my old one did help for a few days, but the problem is back, and it's worse. Now my car wont start at all, which is a bummer because I have to wait till Tuesday for the part:(

In the meantime, I think i'll be upgrading my ground wires to 10 gauge wire, and modify a couple other things as well.

What did that cost you? Couldn't have been cheap. Did you check the wiring to make sure it's not the wiring?

kimokalihi wrote:What did that cost you? Couldn't have been cheap. Did you check the wiring to make sure it's not the wiring?

$325.

Yeah, I tried my friends MAF Sensor in my car, and it works fine, and he has the same problem with my MAF Sensor while it's in his car. Haha, I definitely would not have spent even $50 if I wasn't sure it would fix my problem, I just don't make that much money:(

But I wish I did!!