legacycentral bbs

OK, I have asked before about what all I should do while swapping my clutch, I will be pulling my motor and probably tranny. Here is a list of the parts I have and need. If you see anything that you would recommend doing while the motor and tranny are out, whether it be maintenance or an upgrade that is a hell of alot easier when the motor is out, I will take any advice into consideration. I WILL NOT be tearing the motor apart. I'm gonna do ARP head studs and cometic gaskets, but that's as far as I will be going.... THIS TIME

Have:
ACT Heavy Duty Clutch/ Pressure Plate
ACT Streetlite Flywheel
Group-N Motor Mounts
Group-N Tranny Mount
Timing Belt Kit
Water Pump
WRX Shift Linkage
Valve Cover Gaskets


Need:
Shift Linkage 4 Bushings/Spring
Oil Pump to Block O-ring
Crank Seal
Front Cam Seals
Rear main seal
Tranny Fluid
Rear Diff Fluid
Cometic Head Gaskets
ARP Head Studs
Clutch Alignment Tool
Pitch Stop Mount
Thermostat
Rear Shifter Stay Bushing

Once again, please feel free to add any parts or anything I should check while it's out. This is going to be my first time pulling a motor, and I would like for it to be a successful one, meaning do everything that I can maintenance and upgrade-wise, and being prepared for issues I may come across and parts I need. My friend will be helping me who has done tons of motor pulling, even Subarus so it's not like I'm going in blind, but the more advice, the better. Thanks!!
Matt

Hi Matt,
Don't touch the Rear Main if it's not leaking - it may look like it's leaking due to the Separator/Baffle plate back there, which probably IS leaking. Looks like this PIC.

The plate plus 4+1 screws are Subaru-only, plus some Anaerobic sealant for it and the oil pump.

RE: the trans/rear dif oil. You'll get a lot of opinions, but don't use any of the special 'cocktails' you'll read about for the trans...ask Lee/Skid542 if you want. I don't have a favorite, but he might.

So do you recommend replacing that plate/screws? What about the oil pump?

I will be using the Subaru Extra-S tranny fluid, Haven't heard any bad things about it yet

Yes...replace w/the new style. Make sure you have a good impact (?) screwdriver - you might need it to remove the old screws. The new ones are allen heads.

On the oil pump pull it off clean off ALL the old sealant, tighten the phillips had screws on the back, replace the O-ring back there and the seal around the crank - reseal w/the anaerobic sealant - don't use much! - read up on it HERE.

Extra-S is good stuff, in my book.

hmmm Maybe I'll just get a new oil pump and o-rings, anything else on my list that you see that should be done?

Anyone else have any input? I was expecting to get a lot more response....

If the rear separator plate is metal, I wouldn't bother replacing it, however assuming it's plastic, it's a good idea to replace it.

Personally, I'd probably replace the rear main seal, depending on how many miles are on the car. They are a bitch to replace though, which is why most don't mess with it. If you plan to remove the motor or trans any time in the future, I'd leave it, but if not and the motor is higher mileage, it probably would be prudent to replace it.

Getting the old seal out is a pain. I've found going after the seal from the side using a screwdriver works the best, and then I use the old seal to hammer on and drive the new seal in. You want just a tiny bit of oil on the outer part of the seal. If you have too much the seal will not go in straight and it will fight you to no end.

hmmmm, well im almost at 190k.... and don't really plan on taking the motor out again for a few years, when I can tear it apart and build it. (when I can afford a "new" car). It sounds like I can get away with not replacing it, unless it is leaking pretty badly of course?

IIRC, and I might not, I pulled my seal out with one of those angled pick things we used to break the seal of old hoses on engines at the marina. I didn't split the case, so I didn't get at it from the inside and I don't remember it being difficult to do. Those hose picks are another great tool I found working on boats that I highly recommend.

yea, they are awesome. I worked at a junkyard pulling parts for customers and used them several times. I got like a kit with like 6 different sizes/angles for like 3$ at harbor freight haha

are there any parts that "NEED" to be from the dealership? So far I haven't gotten anything from the dealership. The only things I plan on getting OEM are the shifter bushings/joint/spring, thermostat, and extra-s fluid. Is there anything else that is a "must buy OEM part"?

Personally, I'd recommend getting at least the oil seals from the dealer. I really prefer to just get all Subaru parts for the engine. If you have the time, you can order from one of the online parts dealers and I believe the prices would be comparable to what you get at an autoparts store for generic parts. You can download the parts book in the stuff you need to know forum. That will give you the part #'s and pictures. I have been using http://www.subarugenuineparts.com for a long time and have been happy with their service & prices. There are a couple other sites as well that some may recommend.

hmmm well I already have the water pump and dayco timing belt kit. (not OEM)
those should be fine right? The rest I will definately order from Subaru... i forgot how needy these cars are, but well worth it

Yeah they should be fine. Parts brands are a personal preference as well, so each of us may have different opinions. Through trial and error and experience some parts, like the thermostat for example need to be OEM.

That's kind of my reasoning for using OEM parts. They've lasted this long and they were made specifically for the engine from the original design, rather than being reverse engineered and built from that.

yea that makes sense for sure, but I just can't afford to buy all OEM, I would have easily tripled my cost if I would have with the clutch and all

Don't forget new exhaust gaskets.

I'm guessing I just need to unbolt the DP from the turbo?

Mattheww044 wrote:yea that makes sense for sure, but I just can't afford to buy all OEM, I would have easily tripled my cost if I would have with the clutch and all

Even with buying stuff from online Subaru parts dealers?

well, some of the stuff I got slightly used. I got the ACT HD clutch kit with less than 5k for $200, usually $700
I don't even wanna know what the dealership would charge for a "performance" clutch kit and lightweight flywheel, and I got the mounts and linkage used as well.

Certain things, yeah I don't have any issues buying aftermarket. The pieces I typically buy OEM are things like oil seals, water pumps, timing belts, any engine sensor, etc.

Things like that I feel it's better to get OEM.

yea definitely. I wish I would have thought about that before ordering the timing belt and water pump. i think I should be fine with those though. They are aftermarket, but it's a well known and trusted company... Let's hope they live up to that reputation

+1 on factory stuff for the vitals.

I went with a new aftermarket waterpump and it started leaking within 6 months, and the aftermarket oil pump I had that didn't ever seem to develop oil pressure fast enough for my liking (I don't have a gauge, but the dummy light stayed on far longer than I prefer).....

damn, well maybe I'll see if I can send the T-belt and water pump back.....

I haven't had any issues with Dayco Timing belts, but the water pump really pissed me off.

OK, well I have the Dayco timing belt kit (belt, pulleys, etc.) but I will definately go with the OEM water pump, rather do it once and not have to worry about it for another 60k if possible