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I drive a '91 4EAT n/a Leggy wagon and when I attempt to start it (it's being jumped off of the wife's Volvo) the starter spins and gets the flex-plate/ring-gear spinning, but the engine doesn't crank/turn-over. The starter's been tested and I was told that it was okay, and I've cleaned up the contacts leading from the battery to the starter. Could it still be the starter, even though it gets the flex-plate spinning? I also plan on pulling my timing cover and checking the timing, as well as pulling the plugs and attempting to turn it over by hand at the crank. Has anyone had any experience with symptoms like these? Thanks everyone!

No it won't be your starter if it's spinning and the flex plate it spinning unless it's spinning very very slowly. We need more details than that. Are you getting fuel and spark? Does it sound like it's trying to start or not at all? How did this situation come about? Did it run fine before and one day quit? Did it die while driving? Could be bad fuel pump, could be spark problem, could be a broken timing belt, could be a wire or connector came loose. Without a lot more information it's very difficult to know what's wrong.

Sorry if the initial description was vague. The fuel pump seems to be working, because I pulled a fuel hose leading INTO the engine from the fuel filter and got a nice little spray of gas. It has NGK plugs and wires that are less than a year old. I haven't pulled the timing belt cover yet(watching the kids all day today), so I don't know what's going on with that yet. When I turn the key I can DEFINITELY feel the starter engage the ring-gear/flex-plate, as well as having seen it spin when being cranked by my wife/shop-monkey. The car's had a myriad of issues in the past year, including: a bad/leaking injector, a cam sensor going bad, a crank sensor going bad, an IACV code (replaced with a junkyard unit) and a TERRIBLE rough idle at stop after warming up. Seems no matter what the issue though, I just love this damn car too much to put it out to pasture.

If the flex plate is spinning along with the starter and the engine doesn't turn over/spin at all, then the flex plate is likely broken. You can remove the access plug on the back of the bell housing to confirm whether the flex plate is spinning. Here's a pic of the access plug.

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... P_2487.JPG

If the flex plate is broken, you'll need to either pull the motor or drop the trans and replace the flex plate. If you drop the trans be very careful to leave the torque converter fully seated in the transmission. If it comes out, make sure it's seated all the way before reinstalling, or it could damage the oil pump in the trans.

If the flex plate is broken will I easily be able to turn it by hand?

What are you turning by hand? Is it the crank bolt? That wont matter as the engine is what gives the resistance, I would suggest just pulling one of the side covers off the t-belt cover, it will just be 3 10 mm bolts holding it on and shouldnt take more than 5 min. then check that way if the belt is good or not then you can start to eliminate possibilities.

I was referring to a method by which I would be able to tell that the flex-plate was broken.

Wait, I just read it again. If the engine is not turning over at all then it's obvious the flex plate broke or something down the line from there like the starter isn't seating into the ring gear teeth.

just because it spits out gas that doesnt mean its not the fuel pump couldnt it be not pumping the proper psi are what ever because my car just quit on me and i checked my pump i could hear it run. i took a hose off gas squirted out. my car had spark and i then said the hell with it and just tried puting a new fuel pump on because i couldnt figure it out and it started right up there probly a certain presure and i think theres a tester u can buy

Well in the first post it was stated the engine itself is not turning.

kimokalihi wrote:Wait, I just read it again. If the engine is not turning over at all then it's obvious the flex plate broke or something down the line from there like the starter isn't seating into the ring gear teeth.

I have to agree, but I am somewhat confused as he stated that he can see "it" turn when his wife cranks it which I was assuming that the engine cranks, it just cranks fast due to no compression, I guess if he has the inspection boot off and is watching the flex plate spin then it is for sure broken.

Sounds like it's the flexplate after all. Is the dealership going to be the best place to find a new one, or are there less expensive places to check out online? Also, since I know that Haynes/Chilton's manuals are spotty (at best) with their information, does anyone know the torque specs for the 4(?) bolts holding the flex plate on?

I buy all my subaru OEM parts from 1stsubaruparts.com. They have had the cheapest prices 95% of the time over subarugenuineparts.com and everywhere else for that matter.

You can find links to service manuals in this thread.

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=14485

I've got the complete overseas libertery manual, including the drivetrain (book 3) which should have the torque specs.....they'll be the same as the US Legacy.

Looks like 69-75nm/51-55ftlbs. Sound about kosher, fellas?

Seems pretty high. Are those for the bolts that bolt to the torque converter or the crankshaft? Must be crankshaft. I was thinking you wanted the torque spec for the bolts to the torque converter lol.

Looking for the specs on the bolts that attach the flex-plate. Also wanted to know if it was recommended that I use new bolts, or if re-using the old ones would be okay.

I always just drive the bolts in with my impact, usually I get new bolts but you dont have to, just put a dab of lock tite on there and you will be good, I only use a torque wrench on head bolts and lug nuts the rest just get the "good-n-tight" treatment.

soobrdad02 wrote:Looks like 69-75nm/51-55ftlbs. Sound about kosher, fellas?

Those are the torque specs for the flex plate to the engine.

There are no specs for the bolts that hold the flex plate to the torque converter because you have to tighten them through the access hole on the bell housing, and you can't get a torque wrench in there. Just tighten them as reasonably tight as you can with the wrench.