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I put this here because I didn't want to fill the "what did you do today" thread with a bajillion jpgs.

So here we go:

First step was to figure out how where to mount this amp:



And I was going to do a nice job, i swear, but then i got lazy and just jammed it in there:



This lead to a huge wire mess, which all had to be put into the center console:





During the process of getting the mess all in there, i found this wonderful, super secret spy compartment. I'm not actually certain what this is for, does anyone know?



The deck has an optional bluetooth adapter, which I ended up installing on the back of the glovebox:



Some of the wiring actually ended up ok, check this out:



If you don't see anything, I'm super happy. Basically i wired the mic to the bluetooth unit up the apillar:







Also wired in a fake security system to keep people who don't know anything away (maybe). Anyone who knows anything can probably figure it out though:







Only thing is that it flashes regardless whether the car is on or not. It's not too bad, but it would have been nice if it turned off. I just was kind of leery about trying to wire something into the ignition.

After all that I was in the home stretch:



Except that the bezel prevent the face of the head unit from being able to be opened. Which means I had to file it all down:





Finally, it all fit back together:



There were a lot of hiccups on this, starting out with, having purchased the head unit used. The guy I bought it from said it was practically brand new and everything worked. Turns out that he didn't know what he was talking about and the head unit had some issues, especially connecting to the bluetooth unit. I thought it might have been the wiring, so many many hours of voltmeter continuity tests occurred. Last resort was to go pick up the same unit from a giant chain store. Turns out the wiring was fine and the unit was bad.

Fortunately it all ended up ok, so i'm happy with that.

Turned out good. I'm liking the Datsun too. Yours?

Thanks. Yeah, i love her, but i have to get rid of her at some point.

That's just a change tray that you're missing. It opens up and it's covered in felt to keep your change from making noise inside.

FYI, since you have an aux port for the stereo, they make an adaptor cable that plugs into an ipod dock connector with an aux output for the stereo and a USB input for a cigarette lighter charger. Picked it up for the Focus for about $15 cable and charger (the only good thing about SYNC is the easier adaptability of an MP3 player, which I otherwise didn't want). I can't tell what kind of player you're using in the picture, but if your player doesn't use that same dock connector, there must be something similar that will work. Cleaner than the radio cradle, which I had also been using, less likely to be damaged, and easier to hide everything when parking in a shitty area.

Is that a 280Z? I had a 240 and a 260.

Kimo,

Ok, so there's an additional cover for it, or like an optional one? I have one that's like a blank, but it pulls straight out.

Evolutionmovement,

Yeah, there's a usb cable in the glove box that i didn't take a picture of for jump drives and ipods. I decided to go auxiliary in because i like it better. The dock powers the zune hd and has a flexible arm which is nice. Additionally, it let me run aux in using ainet, so that's kind of cool. the cable is a male/male mini audio cable, so when i'm worried i just unplug it from the dock and stash it in the 1.5din. I kind of figure that anyone who sees a dock assumes that there isn't a real stereo there. And since the zune interface is super nice, and the arm on the dock is flexible, i can change tracks without moving my hand too far from the steering wheel.

The z is a 260.

If you want to disable that led while the ignition is on you can do it really simply by interrupting its power through a relay.

Has to be a relay with the 5th pole (87a)
85- ignition source 12v (red wire on our stereo will work)
86- Ground

Now, cut the power feed to the led you have currently and connect one end to 87a and the other end to 30

The relay is normally closed, meaning the contacts are on 87a and 30 so when the ignition is off the led will work like normal.

When the relay coil sees ignition voltage it energizes the coil and "connects" 87 to 30 (which is empty: be sure to isolate terminal 87 thats not being used)

This interrupts the circuit and the led shuts off while the ignition is on.


Also, a trick to mounting those little microphones is to remove it from the holder completely and wrap a zip tie around it leaving the end long like a leg on it. Then you slide the leg between the head liner and plastic trim piece on the A-pillar and its held in place pretty well.

Thanks Mike! I'll keep that in mind for the next time it all get installed.

Nice install!

Mike beat me to the punch regarding the relay and the security LED. I did this on a friend's car several years back.

The cubby hole is for a coin holder. It looks like they may have gotten rid of them in the later models. I've got oodles of pictures, but can't seem to find a picture of the tray.

Here's some pics of the coin tray

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... _and_tray/

Thanks Josh. I thought it was pretty slick install 'til i saw Mike's! I can't even touch that, yeesh. The coin tray seems nifty, but i'm no really sure what i'd do with one. I was kind of hoping that there was nothing behind the blank, because it would have made a nice location for the bluetooth unit. Ah well.

I might go back in and do the relay, for the led, it seems straight forward enough thanks to mike's explanation. But it's not happening anytime soon, the set up works and i'm reluctant to pull the head unit back out. lol.

For the LED you don't need a relay, you wire one side to bat+ and one side to ign+. When you turn the ignition off the positive output will float to ground and complete the circuit giving a negative side. Obviously you need a LED that blinks and is designed for 12V or you need to add the correct resistor.

oregon_c350 wrote:For the LED you don't need a relay, you wire one side to bat+ and one side to ign+. When you turn the ignition off the positive output will float to ground and complete the circuit giving a negative side. Obviously you need a LED that blinks and is designed for 12V or you need to add the correct resistor.

True but keep in mind not all cars' ignition wires "rest" at ground. Some rest at neutral

I don't necessarily see anything that would lead me to believe our ignitions rest at ground. Here's the power supply routing diagrams if anyone wants to take a look.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/fil ... uting1.jpg
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/fil ... uting2.jpg

It's not that the electrical system rests at ground it's that it floats to ground. Think of all the systems on the ignition circuit that can provide a conduit to ground(when off). You are correct that if you could isolated the circuit with diodes no ground signal would be present at the switch when off.

Try it, it works.

As a side note this is also the reason that almost all aftermarket stereos want you to use a screw and attach the ground to bare metal. Too many wires that will show up as ground with a test light to trust them.

where did you get the install kit with the little compartment right underneath the stereo?

The 1.5 din? It's from another legacy. you can find them floating around on certain legacys in junk yards. i'm not sure what years. Occasionally someone will have one for sale on the forums as well. One of the threads has a part number that you can use to order one.

nice job, I have a double din radio i want to put in mine, It looks like it will fit with a little room to spare. Do you think i could put a little piece of plastic there to cover it up or is there NO WAY to put a double din in there?

The total amount of space is 2.5 Din i think. I'm not sure about whether or not it fit the mounting holes in the cage, but psychically, the amount of vertical space should be fine. You can get little kits that help fill in the space. I had a .5 din cover for a while before i found my box.

originalcyn wrote:The total amount of space is 2.5 Din i think. I'm not sure about whether or not it fit the mounting holes in the cage, but psychically, the amount of vertical space should be fine. You can get little kits that help fill in the space. I had a .5 din cover for a while before i found my box.

Yea thats what im gonna do!

oregon_c350's right -- various ignition-switched circuits in the car will provide a path for a weak current to go from IGN+ to ground when the ignition is off. A blinking LED draws so little current that it serves as a fine ground.

The same basic effect can be exploited to make 92-94 sidemarkers blink with turn signals but also shine steadily with parking lights -- switch the sidemarker's ground wire from "real" ground to the turn signal +12v. When either the turn signal bulbs or the parking light bulbs are on (but not both), the one that's on provides +12v and the one that's off provides ground.

Click to see my install

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... 51#p371751