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I just finished my engine rebuild and mangled up my crank sensor. Got a known used good one put in, along with a new knock sensor and got the engine running. The plug on the knock was really hard to get in and I ended up not realizing it wasn't totally seated.

Upon starting the engine I got a CEL and read the codes as 11, 22, 35, 42, and 51. Knowing that the engine shouldn't run with an 11 (crank angle sensor) I attempted to reset with the plugs. No luck, so I attempted to pull the negative battery cable and fuse 14; again no luck in the codes clearing.

I got the axles back in and drove it in D check mode; all I got was 22 (knock sensor) and none of the other 4 came back. I managed to seat the connector properly for the knock sensor after the initial drive, and attempted to clear the codes again with the plugs; no luck. I then drove the car in D check and STILL get a CEL for 22.

Do I need to clear the ECU again before I can eliminate the code for a bad knock sensor circuit?

I've been using the info on the surrealmirage website if that helps at all.

What I really want to know is why I'm having difficulty clearing the codes/ECU, and what steps I should be taking to do it.

I'll diagnose the knock sensor and circuit later on if need be, but I think I'm missing something in getting the codes cleared.

In clear memory mode (when you connect both pairs of connectors), the ECU basically does the same thing as it does in D-check mode, except that it clears old stored codes if it doesn't detect any new ones.

Your ECU still detects a problem with the knock sensor circuit.

Is it possible that the connector is damaged? It shouldn't be very hard to plug in; maybe the pin wasn't lined up and now is bent or something?

If you fix the knock sensor problem, hook up both connectors, and drive the car, the CEL eventually will start blinking slowly -- this is the "all clear" signal. It sounds like you're doing the right thing with respect to the ECU.

vrg3 wrote:In clear memory mode (when you connect both pairs of connectors), the ECU basically does the same thing as it does in D-check mode, except that it clears old stored codes if it doesn't detect any new ones.

Your ECU still detects a problem with the knock sensor circuit.

Is it possible that the connector is damaged? It shouldn't be very hard to plug in; maybe the pin wasn't lined up and now is bent or something?

If you fix the knock sensor problem, hook up both connectors, and drive the car, the CEL eventually will start blinking slowly -- this is the "all clear" signal. It sounds like you're doing the right thing with respect to the ECU.

Ok, I'll try that. Seems like it's probably something easy like that. The older style ECU like my Loyale resets a lot easier, but also has a less sensors to worry about.

vrg3 wrote:In clear memory mode (when you connect both pairs of connectors), the ECU basically does the same thing as it does in D-check mode, except that it clears old stored codes if it doesn't detect any new ones.

Your ECU still detects a problem with the knock sensor circuit.

Is it possible that the connector is damaged? It shouldn't be very hard to plug in; maybe the pin wasn't lined up and now is bent or something?

If you fix the knock sensor problem, hook up both connectors, and drive the car, the CEL eventually will start blinking slowly -- this is the "all clear" signal. It sounds like you're doing the right thing with respect to the ECU.

That's what it was. Knock sensor checked out based on the FSM tests, then I realized the pin was all bent to crap from me ham fisting it in. Straightened it out and plugged it back in; still gave me a 22. Warmed the car up, hooked up both connectors, got the all clear blink for about 30 seconds, then 22. Drove about 10 minutes and the all clear blinks started up again. Turned the car off, disconnected the green and black, no CEL now.

Thanks for the help.

Hmm, weird that the code came back after giving you the all-clear. Keep an eye on it; the connector might still not be making a solid connection.

Been good ever since. Taped up the wiring leading to the connector since the insulation looked questionable.