legacycentral bbs

I can start my car cold and run it in the city and highway for hours without it turning on. If I run it, shut it off and restart it hot, the check engine light comes on and stays on. The temp stays normal and the engine feels and sounds normal. What is going on? It has been doing this for months.

Why not just check the codes and see what is stored?

If the memory hasnt been cleared in a while you might find many different codes stored.

When I bought my car it had 6-7 codes stored. I reset the computer so that the real error would be visible.

Interesting. The car is ten and I have never had the computer checked. I took it to a small tire/oil change place. They saw the check engine light and wanted to check it for $100. I told them no thanks for that price. Who can check these things for a good price.

You can yourself! Check Legacy777's site for how-to...

You'll be shocked at the simplicity of what you were gonna pay $100 to have someone else do...

Wow! $100??? Don't ever go to that shop for anything. Even the dealer only wanted $40-$80 to check it and my neighborhood guy does it for $20. That's for a new-model car that requires the special scan tool. On your old car, you can check it yourself in 10 minutes.

I've got the same thing happening right now, and the last time I checked the codes, it was for the Canister Purge Solenoid Valve (code 35). Going to try to get it changed this week... Hopefully I never see that light again!

check the codes yourself and let us know what you find.

I had exactly the same symptoms, and, like Mike, found that it was the canister purge control valve solenoid. I replaced that part ($100) and havn't seen the check engine light since.

How did you replace the solenoid? I've got the part sitting right in front of me, but I cannot figure out how to get at the bolt that holds the solenoid on. What's the easiest way to get at this little bugger?

-Brian

The way I removed the solenoid was, I used a socket wrench with an extension long enough so that i could get in from the back of the intake manifold. Then, you just have to get your fingers in there and get it out and get the new one in.
That was the reason that my check engine light was on. I replaced it and it hasn't come on since!!!

I'll be giving it another go today. I hope all goes well. I was worried I'd have to remove the intake manifold to replace this Beotch.

-Brian

I assume it's a little easier on a non-turbo. I can't really get in from behind because the turbo and all the associated intake tubing is in the way. How have you turbo guys gotten at it?

-Brian

Well, I finally finished installing the new solenoid tonight. It was a BIG PITA. I was able to use a box end wrench although it might have been easier with a ratcheting wrench (12mm BTW). I ran into a few problems as I always seem to do. When I was trying to push one of the vacuum hoses back onto the solenoid valve, it cracked. I noticed it was really hard (brittle) when I took it off, but I didn't think much of it. So I had to go find some vacuum hose (4mm inside diameter) which proved a challenge in itself, the dealership near me didn't even have any. Anyways, long story short this was one hard part to replace but it's done and I'm happy. I hope this provides some helpful info for you guys down the road.

-Brian