legacycentral bbs

First let me start by saying hi since this is my first post. I have a 91 Legacy SS, all stock ej22t except for my "custom" intake since the original one fell apart. I've been having some issues lately with hesitation and lack of power so I replaced some things such as plugs, wires, fuel filter, vac lines, and as far as I can tell got rid of all the intake leaks but it didn't seem to make much difference. so I started thinking maybe the tps was bad or not adjusted properly, so I tested it and it wasn't set properly so I adjusted it until the idle switch worked right but the readings I got from the other pins were, pins 2-3 7.69k and doesn't change with throttle movement, pins 2-4 were 7.2k fully closed and 1.72k fully open and did seem to move smoothly with throttle change but those numbers don't seem right, is my TPS bad?

Inlinesicks wrote:First let me start by saying hi since this is my first post. I have a 91 Legacy SS, all stock ej22t except for my "custom" intake since the original one fell apart.

I've been having some issues lately with hesitation and lack of power so I replaced some things such as plugs, wires, fuel filter, vac lines, and as far as I can tell got rid of all the intake leaks but it didn't seem to make much difference.

When did you start having problems? Spontaneously or after you did something to it?

so I started thinking maybe the tps was bad or not adjusted properly, so I tested it and it wasn't set properly so I adjusted it until the idle switch worked right but the readings I got from the other pins were, pins 2-3 7.69k and doesn't change with throttle movement, pins 2-4 were 7.2k fully closed and 1.72k fully open and did seem to move smoothly with throttle change but those numbers don't seem right, is my TPS bad?

Misadjustment was the cause on misfire on fast idle on mine. Mine ranges from 2.0 to 8.2.

Using feeler gauges,1-2 should conduct with 0.7mm but stop conductive when 0.9mm feeler gauge is place at the stop screw on
BOTTOM (not the top one that's clearly visible, but its on the same assembly on the bottom side)

A meter with audible conduction indicator is very helpful here.
After the screws are tightened, adjustment should be verified so that 1-2 are conducting with 0.7mm but not with 0.9mm. It tends to move a bit as the screws are tightened. It took me three tries to get it setup just right.

Next step is vacuum leak check. Best to use a tube with a steady flow of propane and basically follow along vacuum components and observe for change in idle. If you don't have this setup, you could carefully spray spots with engine starting fluid being with extreme care.

Carburetor cleaner would also work, but its a very aggressive solvent blend that may damage plastic parts or paint.

91Beater wrote:

Inlinesicks wrote:First let me start by saying hi since this is my first post. I have a 91 Legacy SS, all stock ej22t except for my "custom" intake since the original one fell apart.

I've been having some issues lately with hesitation and lack of power so I replaced some things such as plugs, wires, fuel filter, vac lines, and as far as I can tell got rid of all the intake leaks but it didn't seem to make much difference.

When did you start having problems? Spontaneously or after you did something to it?

so I started thinking maybe the tps was bad or not adjusted properly, so I tested it and it wasn't set properly so I adjusted it until the idle switch worked right but the readings I got from the other pins were, pins 2-3 7.69k and doesn't change with throttle movement, pins 2-4 were 7.2k fully closed and 1.72k fully open and did seem to move smoothly with throttle change but those numbers don't seem right, is my TPS bad?

Misadjustment was the cause on misfire on fast idle on mine. Mine ranges from 2.0 to 8.2.

Using feeler gauges,1-2 should conduct with 0.7mm but stop conductive when 0.9mm feeler gauge is place at the stop screw on
BOTTOM (not the top one that's clearly visible, but its on the same assembly on the bottom side)

A meter with audible conduction indicator is very helpful here.
After the screws are tightened, adjustment should be verified so that 1-2 are conducting with 0.7mm but not with 0.9mm. It tends to move a bit as the screws are tightened. It took me three tries to get it setup just right.

Next step is vacuum leak check. Best to use a tube with a steady flow of propane and basically follow along vacuum components and observe for change in idle. If you don't have this setup, you could carefully spray spots with engine starting fluid being with extreme care.

Carburetor cleaner would also work, but its a very aggressive solvent blend that may damage plastic parts or paint.

Yeah I checked those things and everything seemed ok, I'm starting to think it might be a problem with the boost controller, when I floor the gas it feels normal at first then like half way through the rev band it looses power suddenly then sometimes it comes back at higher rpm, it feels as if maybe the wastegate is opening at the wrong time, I'll get a boost gauge in there and see what it says.

Did you ever get check engine light? Have you pulled the code yet just to see?

91Beater wrote:Did you ever get check engine light? Have you pulled the code yet just to see?

My check engine light has never come on, but I have unplugged sensors and things while the car is running so the light must just not work.

Does the CEL come on and stay on with the key in the ON position and engine not running? If not, you should check and/or replace the bulb.

Legacy777 wrote:Does the CEL come on and stay on with the key in the ON position and engine not running? If not, you should check and/or replace the bulb.

No I don't think it does, I tried to pull the cluster out but even after I removed all the screws (I think) it still felt like it was held in by something and I didn't want to pull to hard and break it, is there a trick to it?

The speedo cable is still attached and probably what is still holding it in there. You need to reach behind it and to try and disconnect it from the gauge cluster.