legacycentral bbs

I,ve done alot of work on this car and have owned her for 10 years and what I really love about the car is I've never get stuck. I just started driving it again after a 2 year reconstruction of the whole car. Driving it is a dream but it get stuck really easy. This is a short list of what I did:

rebulit engine
rebulit trans (mt 5)
replaced rear diff (99 outback 4.11)

Everything else that was done is not related I don't beleve. The car use to go any where, snow to the bumper plow right thru, but now I have a hard time getting up my own driveway with studded tires with 1 inch of snow WTF did I do. I need to figure this out before next winter since I deliver lost luggage and most people don't have there driveway plowed.

What year is your Legacy? Is it turbo or non-turbo?

Did you change the final drive ratio or did it always have a 4.111 final drive ratio?

Have you verified that the front and rear wheels are both working/spinning?

It's a 90 n/a and it's always had 4.11 gear in it and changed it to newer design because of they are easer to find. My old one was really worn out and leaking everywhere because of over 450,000 miles on it. What I'm experiencing is my RF and LR is spinning and I hear my front diff (I believe) clicking. I also experiencing, when getting in a corner and try to power out it used to be vary stable now it slides and pushes and can't even give it any pedal while in the corner or it will go strait.

Hmmm.

Well what you describe with the RF & LR spinning is what it really should do since it has open diffs in the front & rear. I'm not sure why you didn't have any problems before.

I guess one possibility is that the rebuilt motor has more power than the old motor did so breaking the wheels loose now is much easier. You could try finding a 4.11 VLSD from a late model Impreza RS. This would help with traction issues in the rear.

Do you hear the clicking all the time, only when the wheels spin? What about when turning? Are you sure the clicking isn't coming from the cv axles?

I only hear the clicking when it spins and one tire is spinning up front. All axels are new (oem) I know that's not it. I drove the car a week last winter and put over 3000 miles with the new motor and didn't have the problem, (had trans issue in my truck) then I had trans rebuilt (2nd & 3rd replaced)while that was being done I changed rear subframe and diff. I'm thinking maybe my old rear diff transfered the power more evenly, but I know it was open diff also.

I also have 92 with same setup but all original and I have videos going up a drive way up to the door moulding ( soft powder ) and my car couldn't follow.

I'm not sure what to tell you then....maybe the older diffs are better in some way....

Could also be the tires. There are good and bad tires for the snow, studded and non-. Depends on their age, as well. Snow tires degrade fairly quickly when driven on dry warm tarmac and the remaining tread is not good on snow or dry pavement.

Find an LSD for the rear. Since you have converted to the new axle style it will be fairly easy.

I know what you saying about the tires and both cars have the same tire mine almost new (less than 10,000) the 92 worn out (last year on them). I buy new tires every 2 years because of the miles I put on them.

As for the LSD I couldn't find one locally when I did it originaly and I figured that all open diff should act the same.

I know my local yard has RS diff but they can't tell me if its VLSD or not. I know i seen it some where,but I can't seem to find the casting #'s Im looking for, so when I'm looking at it I can identify that it is correct. Do any one off the top have #'s.

I think the RS had a VLSD standard in 00-01 but not 98-99

Just grab a WRX rear carrier. Super common.

Here's some info on the casting marks, but it doesn't give any info on the LSD or not.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... f_info.pdf

So if I'm reading this right, I know by some research I don't want the one that is powered by 2.2 auto. I need the 2.5 manual with the markings T 2 on it.

Or make it easier and grab any LSD regardless of its origin and ratio, then swap the carrier into your current differential housing.

One thing I was reading on another forum might be what you're experiencing here:

http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=7 ... enter+diff

I'm only having the clicking when the one tire is spinning. I can do tight donuts with no noise or binding.