legacycentral bbs

Hey guys,

Got a 92 turbo legacy with the ej22, car died on the freeway a couple days back. Had it towed home and started messing with it this weekend. New pump dropped in works good, getting spark, found a blown fuse for the ecu replaced it and started checking other stuff and it's still not starting. I'm ripping my hair out and I was wondering if you guys would have any other ideas for me to check out. Thanks hope to hear from y'all soon. I also checked tried to check out the codes but t wouldn't pull them when I plugged the connectors together. Uh I'm going to try a cam sensor tomorrow to see what's up.

If you have spark, it's probably not the crank or cam sensors, but it's probably worth checking both. You may want to check that the timing belt is timed correctly and didn't slip a tooth. Have you pulled the plugs to see that they are wet with fuel after cranking the motor?

Can you elaborate what you mean by it wouldn't pull the codes? Did the check engine light just blink steadily?

What ended up happening is there was a blown fuse so it wasn't showing the codes at first. So we replaced the fuse for the ecu and the cam sensor was replaced and cleaned the crank. Got the car running and got no codes, also no boost. The car would cut out once boosted over 6psi. So I got it down to my shop and started messing with it and the check engine light came on. 14, 15, 17, and 22. 14, 15, and 17 is abnormal injector operation and 22 says the knock sensor. So the question I have now is if I replace the knock sensor will everything be fine or am I fucked?

Even looking threw the forum and bouncing my problems off my buddy and all I keep hearing and seeing in a bad ground could this be a issue caused by a bad ground?

Also the whole car is taken apart because where painting it so there's no front bumper, headlight, turn signals, or grill

Car isalmost back together and whenn we where looking over everything and starting up the motor to do a little diag we can hear what seems to be the fuel pressure regulator making a tapping noise. Upon finding this we where trying to feel it to make sure that that was the cause and you can clearly hear it tapping and feel it too with the key on but not running.

Have you ruled out wiring like chaffe/slit insulation or something pulled out of harness?
If the ECU fuse blew, it's probably not a fluke. Something blew it.

If you try and clear the codes, do all of them come back again, or just the knock sensor?

When I disconnect the battery and reconnect it the codes pop back up. Spark plugs are good and I pulled my coil pack and 2 off the bolts where corroded and I cleaned them and put a new diamond coil pack on.

Knock sensor was cracked and we replaced it and all we are getting for codes is 14 15 16 17 23 and 49.

Try doing the active code diagnostic with the green connectors to see what comes up.

Yup, so we swapped out all the injectors and the car still wouldnt stay running. We pulled the timing cover and it's off timing

So with the timing adjusted does it run correctly?

Car still doesn't run. I put in new injectors, spark plugs, tried 4 different coil packs, change out the knock sensor, tried 4 different cranks and 4 different cam sensors. New fuel pump. Cleaned the maf with maf cleaner. New timing belt. I am tearing my hair out my car has all these new parts and it's still not starting I have no clue what to do now.

Ok, I think we need to go back to the basics. After cranking the engine for a while, if you pull the spark plugs, are they wet with fuel? Have you used a noid light or checked for spark on the spark plugs?

If you have spark and fuel, then I would tend to think it's a timing issue. When you put the belt on, did you use the mark on the back of the crank gear to align everything?

Well thats the thing I feel a faint pulse on the injectors and you can smell a faint oder of gas. I'm thinking it might be a ground to the injectors. The crank gear was lined up on the back mark and the cams are lined up on the front of the cam gear to the notch in the plastic cover.

The injectors ground through the ECU. They are supplied power to each injector, and then the ECU grounds the circuit to open the injector.

Are the plugs WET after cranking for a while? If they are not wet, you're not getting enough fuel to combust the mix.

Have you verified you have spark?

They aren't really wet thats why I was thinking that itcould be a grounding issue with the injectors. I am getting spark we did a plug to coil check and pulled the spark plug and grounded it and it had spark. Like i said new cam, crank, and knock. So there is spark no fuel. The middle line off the fuel filter to the rails is rock solid and we are getting pressure to the injectors I just feel that the injectors aren't releasing the fuel to the cylinder.

Is the battery in good shape? At least 12.5 volts at the battery with the car off, and at least 10 volts during cranking?

Also, feeling the fuel hose by hand might not be an adequate test of fuel pressure; are you sure you can feel the difference between 36 psi and 26 psi? I would stick a pressure gauge in there and make sure the new fuel pump is doing its job.

Like Josh said, the ground side of the injectors is switched by the ECU. You can check the ECU's "Injector Ground" pins if you want to test their ground. The other side of the injectors (with yellow/red wires) is connected to +12V from the ignition relay.

I've been helping potter with this car, there's a constant 12.04 voltage at the injectors, just not firing will look at the grounds at the ecu, since there's no inner wheel liner on the car I want to suspect that the ecu grounds to the injectors might be compromised due to corrosion/ broken wire causing a no start situation. The car will stumble when starting fluid is applied to it.
It's a fuel related issue. I personally did the timming belt an I know it's dead on. Previously the tbelt was off by a few degrees.

The ECU's ground wires end up at the engine near the rear driver side intake runner. Maybe start by disconnecting the ring terminals and measuring the resistance to the pins on the ECU harness.

The car is still not starting. I acquired a different manifold wiring harness and I am going to try swapping it out to see if it works. Last time we messed with it there was not a single injector pulsing nor any power at the injectors. We get power all the way up to the connectors on the driverside engine connectors but nothing past that. If this doesn't work the car is being burned to the ground so please any info you can pass my way would be awesome

If you've got power all the way to the connectors behind the battery, but not at the injectors, it's got to be the engine wiring harness that is bad.