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so i got the subie to my folks house so the mobile mechanic can take a look at it. i put a fresh battery in it and it fired up for roughly 10 mins then died. i drove it around the drive way and when i gave it throttle it would bog down and almost die til i took my foot off the throttle. then it just died with out warning. any ideas?

alternator

explain why you think it could be that

Well is the battery still good? or is it dead? did you have any codes? have you tested the alt? can you give any more info?

battery is still good i tried starting it back up but it just cranked over. the alt hasn't been tested yet. what would be some signs of a bad coolant temp sensor be?

You're going to have to try and provide us some more details. Does the engine crank over?

Check for stored codes as well as active codes.

i think its the alternator. i hooked up my multi meter up to the battery and no voltage increase. my battery started at 12.55 volts and when i turned the car off it was at 12.22. and i hand to let the starter crank for a bit before it would fire up

update : i got the subie to run but still wont drive. when i got to start it i have to crank on it for a bit and floor the throttle and hold it there while it hiccups and stumbles then it will idle fine. but if i put it in drive and give gas it wants to do die out.

so i googled some of the symptoms of my car and one search lead to idle air control valve, how would i test that or what are the symptoms of it being bad

Maybe fuel filter or the fuel pump.

If you try and give it a bit of gas when you put it in drive does the car stay running?

I'd be curious to see if the car will actually drive....if you can keep the engine revs up....and it works ok, then it may just be an IAC valve issue.

when i drive give it gas the rpms drop and car stalls out. i tried to power brake but still stalls

and i also lose brake pedal pressure. after the bov releases the pressure i lose brake pedal

Ok, well if you can't keep it running, it may be a massive vacuum leak. Other possibility could be a bad MAF sensor.

only leak i can find is the turbo elbow. i tried sealing it but there sounds like a hiss coming from the front. there is a u shaped hose under the alt.

are the fuel pressure regulator on subies ran by vacuum and could it cause the car not to run when put in gear

The U shaped hose behind the alternator is related to the PCV system and would not keep the car from running.

The fuel pressure regulators do reference vacuum, but not having it hooked up, will only increase fuel pressure at idle, and wouldn't keep the car from running.

If you know you have a vacuum leak at the turbo inlet, you need to fix it. You may have multiple problems that are causing your problem, but until you fix one and move on to the next, you'll be trying to fight more than one thing....it just won't work. I still suggest trying to find a used MAF or someone locally that you could swap it to see if it helps.

From your first post, I would also say the MAF. I had one go bad on my '93 na and it was doing similar stuff so, as Josh said, try to find a used one or someone that will let you use theirs to see if thats the problem.

i'll look on here the codes its showing now is knock sensor O2 and airflow sensor. i pulled the O2 and it was blacker than crap

codes were 23 49 and 32

Code 23 is the MAF sensor, and code 49 is the code for the improper MAF sensor.

What year and model legacy do you have? Is it turbo or non-turbo?

What color MAF sensor is on the car?

92 turbo and black sensor in a silver colored metal housing and only other tag on the car is touring edition

Hmmm....that sounds like it's the correct MAF sensor, but it may not be good, or there may be an issue with the MAF sensor wiring (which I'd probably lean more towards).

I would suggest testing the MAF and the MAF wiring. Below are the checks you should do.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... sting1.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... sting2.jpg

If you don't have a multi-meter, a mechanic should be able to use the above diagrams and tell you whether everything checks out.

wiring is good minus the plastic clip has a crack in it. i ordered a new maf sensor and should be here today. gonna try some of that crc maf cleaner on my O2 sensor to clean it til the new one gets here. autozone said it wouldnt be here til monday

the maf just showed up 10 min ago now gonna try it wish me luck