legacycentral bbs

where is it located? can i test it with my Mulimeter?

If you look straight down on the drivers side of the car, right after the intake manifold, next to the throttle body you will see a black circular thing with a bolt in the middle. That is the knock sensor

Here's a pic


It should have a resistance of aprox. 560 kohms.

Just buy the updated part, if you have a grey connector like shown in the photo you are supposed to replace it anyways even if it isnt damaged.

Part Number 22060aa031 "SEN ASSY-KNOCK"

what is this replacing the knock sensor even if its not damaged? could this be why i'm having some hesitation below 2,000 RPM? is it a recall? more information on this would be helpful as this is all new to me!

The knock sensor is one of the more problematic parts on the engine, and the original ones were oversensitive. A few people modified them to be slightly less sensitive, to reduce that hesitation.

The newer part is probably just less sensitive or more accurate.

Dave

The old sensor design with the grey connector has intermittant connection problems, so your car will "randomly" hit limp timing mode without showing the CE.

Just replace it and move on, many of us have been through this already no reason to "recreate the wheel" in diagnosing your problem.

Just to clarify,

The old sensor is the white connector. The new one is the grey connector.

I just changed my Sensor 1 our ago Since i was experiencing major Hesitation problems with 10psi of boost... and it solved my problem !

here are the pics :



The old one, all cracked and rusted
HiRez: http://images.fotki.com/v13/photos/1/17 ... img-or.jpg


HiRez: http://images.fotki.com/v12/photos/1/17 ... img-or.jpg




The sensor is there near the red arrow... 2" bellow the 1wire connector situated above it.
HiRez: http://images.fotki.com/v12/photos/1/17 ... img-or.jpg




And that's the new one.
HiRez: http://images.fotki.com/v13/photos/1/17 ... img-or.jpg



the box :



My old one has Grey connector, the new one white.

I just replaced my knock sensor. The new sensor is White, so you have the new one. Here’s the TSB that someone gave me that gives more info on it (also, did you reset your computer after you installed the new sensor? Maybe it still partially remembers the readings from your old bad sensor): http://members.tripod.com/quick_svx/TSB ... 48280.html

This is some good info, probably stuff i missed out on from the USMB.

I've put up the content of that document on my page as well:

http://www.xmission.com/~dac/library/knock.htm

Dave

I'm not sure if my knock sensor is bad! i would assume not, because my check engine light is not on and I have the white connector. It seems like it "misses" at RPM's below 2,000......but above 2,000 it runs and accelerates fine. I think its getting worse too, because when i start out in first gear and give it generous gas, it seems to almost backfire (like the engine is choking), but when it gets above 2,000 it goes fine....it hesitates in every gear under 2,000. I can't seem to find the problem so any help would be nice!

I looked at mine again, the one on the car. It is white. Sorry for the confusion.

The old one I pulled off looked white too....maybe it was already updated??

Who knows.....I still have hesitation issues though.....grrrr

I went back to my dealership to figure that "plug color" thing out


from infinite to 96, The serial num. was xxxxx30 (grey plug)

the updated model camed in 96, with xxxxx31 s/n (white plug)

Now they have a new plug, s/n xxxxxxx61, wich is almost the same.. but with a different plug (white)

how much did the new knock sensor cost>?

123.05 $CAD

If you ever have the time to wait for a part you may want to try out www.subaruparts.com. It's $32.80 US plus $15 shipping to Canada.

think I got mine for like 40 bucks. Call www.libertysubaru.com

Should be able to get it cheap.

Damn, should have know that before i got mine ! :\

Save the link and try them then next time you need a part - I'm sure you'll need another part

They've been really helpful to me and if you know the part number you can check it online (price and availability), and it you don't know the number then you can call and just get a bunch of part numbers (I usually ask for any part number in the area I'm working on - just in case).

I'll sure try them soon....

This afternoon i reset my ECU, and after the reset time (+-2 min), i got the "32" error code ... "Oxygen sensor inoperative" .... :\

it's 189$CAD + tax in the area for a ej22T 02 sensor ... from UAP NAPA, and 220$ for the OEM... ***** Expensive.


But, I have a Question... regarding that 02.. is is behavior Ok ? :
it takes ruffly 4 mins. to get proper readings, and the reading are sometimes narrow (3 leds wide on my AF) in the green, sometimes 4leds wide, (2 orange 2 green), and sometimes wide, like 3 leds orange and all the green lights on...

Could those readings be a proof of a bad O2 ? :\

and, is that code could be an error i got one month ago when i started the engine without the O2 (forgot to replug it after a little mec. job) ... that code juste stayed in memory and just shows back this afternoon when i turned the ECU into it's reset mode ??



once again, sorry for my english

I don’t know if you have the same Sensor as I have (90 non-turbo Legacy), but if you do it’s part number: 22690AA090. I just checked at subaruparts.com and it’s $91.40 US plus shipping. It looks like it’s not in stock, which means it will take up to two weeks to get it (if the part is in Oregon it only takes a few days, if it’s in Georgia it will take a week or so). Before you order a new one I would check to make sure you have the correct part, because I believe the part changed in 90 and I don’t know if it’s different for a turbo.

My old sensor would intermittently give me a trouble code (once or twice a month), so I finally got tired of it and replaced it. It took the new sensor about five minutes to warm up and start work properly (right after I installed it), but once it warmed up it worked without any problems. I reset the computer after it got going and I haven’t had any errors pop up for months now. The new sensor comes with thread grease – leave it on the threads when you screw it in place.

I’m not sure that I really notice any performance difference with the new sensor – but the check engine light hasn’t come on for months

the strange thing about that is that i dont get a Check engine Light ...

I dont have the check engine ligth on when the 4 wires are not connected... it's only yesterday when i was trying to reset the ECU that i got that code..

Legacy is getting a new exaust line right now.. can't wait to this after-noon to see the difference (in SoUnD and PoWeR ! )

and that FU!@#$@#% HEsitation problem is still there !!!!!! @#!%#$%?&
à

GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR i am so tired of that ...


yeah the car pulls a lot more with the new exaust, but there is still something that ... blocks ... stops... prevent.... the car from pulling 100%...

What can it be ??? Feels to me like a detonation / pinking problem... how can i verify that and, prevent that ? i always run on 91 grade gaz (the highest we have here in quebec city, stupid city of loosers... )

Have you reset your ECU morgie?