legacycentral bbs

Hey guys,

I am going to be doing an engine rebuild over the winter. I spun a rod bearing and crewed up the crank a little. Hoping that the machine shop will be able to grind the crank and clean the surface up. What wondering if you have any insight..

Currently I plan on getting having them check:
deck surface
cylinder walls
main bearing surface

I think i am going to have to go 10-20 over for the rod bearings to support the regrinding of the crank and possible the same for the cylinder walls (thought they seem okay).

Currently i plan on using the Pro Topline rebuild kit and opt for the TOGA rod/main bearing.
http://importperformanceparts.net/impor ... baru1.html

I am going to go with cometic head gaskets though.
http://importperformanceparts.net/impor ... ubaru.html

Is there anywhere special to get timing chain covers? When I spun the bearing I also overheated the motor to the point that the timing covers slightly melted...

Was wondering if there was any known swapable oil pan upgrade from another Subaru. I already plan on modifying it to have an oil return line from my oil catch can. I found a article on something like this for a WRX.
http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp_1 ... wall.html


I also considered the delta 220 cams but was not impressed with the gains i found documented here at all

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=45209


What do you guys think?

fyi i am currently running a revscan chip for 550 and a VF12 and dont want to go stand alone. If i were to add power it would have to be able to be supported be that (ie 220s)

As common as good EJ18/EJ22/EJ20G/K/H/R cranks are, I would not have yours ground to an undersize.

Before you make too many descions, I would head over to the engine building subforums on Nasioc and such. Once you get past the 95% bull-crap, there are a few REALLY knowledgable and experienced guys that post regularly.

I agree, the cranks between the non-turbo & turbo EJ22's are the same, so try and find a good used one before undersizing yours.

As for machine work, have the cylinders bored/honed to whatever pistons you're using, have the deck machined and the heads resurfaced so that you know both have a perfect & flat mating surface. Get the valves redone at the same time. Short of that, polish the used crank if you go that route, and that's about it.

I don't really have any knowledge regarding the Pro Topline rebuild kit. I would recommend getting ARP studs to replace the stock head bolts.

I have heard mixed things regarding the Cometic head gasket, and have heard of more failures of them than the stock one....even on higher HP setups. I think the Cometic head gasket is more susceptible of mating surface imperfections. For what it's worth, I decided to go back in with a stock Subaru ej22t head gasket for my build.

The timing belt covers are pretty standard and are pretty much the same between turbo & non-turbo models. I think the turbo ones say "turbo" on it.....so if you don't care about that, you should be able to run the non-turbo timing belt covers.

As for different oil pans, you should be able to use an oil pan from any other EJ series engine. You may have to swap to that style oil pickup tube and maybe baffle plate, but the mounting bolt locations are the same.

I am running the 220's and don't have enough time with them on the new motor at high rpm & boost levels to tell how they compare, but from what I have seen, they do help the engine breathe better at the top end. So I guess depending on what your overall goals are, better mid-range power or top-end would decide whether to go with the 220's.

They do make the idle lopey and may not be as smooth, but for a race car, I don't think that's a huge deal.

I agree with decking the heads. Not so sure if I want any valve work done though.

Thanks for the info on the head gaskets. I have had similar experiences and heard similar things. And ill look into ARP head studs.

I am really not impressed with the dyno graphs i have seen for the 220s. Its just not a clear enough gain to spend the money...

Regarding the cams.....ultimately you'll have to make that call. My suggestion would be to not get too tied up in solely the dyno numbers. You can make a car put down a lot of power on a dyno, but be horrible to drive and slow in real world driving.

The main reason I got them was due to the fact the stock heads run out of oompf at higher rpms and I didn't want to jack with a DOHC head swap.

If I get my butt in gear and the 6spd in the car and get it tuned, I'll have dyno results with the new motor & cams. Granted I've upped my CR, hopefully they'll be a trend in terms of how the power tapers off compared to the stock motor. I may be able to get all that done before early winter, but we'll see.

I think the inexpensive option would be a JDM engine. You don't know what condition things are in if badly overheated.
The time, the machine shop costs etc. you need to figure it all up. You say you don't want to spend on valve work. Hmm overheated could mean valve problems.

Soo these kits dont include pistons. Any suggestions where to get stock oversized pistons?

Here's a chart of the pistons Wiseco makes. They make stock sized as well as a piston for a stroker setup.

http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/wiseco ... ubaru.html

There's some companies on eBay who sell them for a little cheaper also. I've found them just by searching with the engine codes.

Yeah those are forged. Looking for cheaper stocker type ones.

Yeah just got off the phone with Subaru. I guess they only offer them in 0.025 and 0.050 over which isnt what i want. And they are ~$85 a piston without rings/etc.

Parts are coming in. Not too happy with my machine shop because they bored the block without having the piston. Not sure how they did the piston to cylinder wall measurements that way. Called Wiseco and they said it should be 0.003 inches for a daily driver.

How did you guys grind your piston ring gaps? I dont feel like buying a $150 dollar ring grinder..


Also did you guys run thread cleaners though your head bolt threads? I am having a hard time finding a M11X1.25 one. I ran across the $60 M11 set from ARP but i dont need a set..

Yeah, the machine shop should have had the pistons. I'm not sure how they could have bored without them......do you know what they bored to and what your piston specs are? The Wiseco pistons should have come with a "birth sheet" with that info.

I bought a relatively inexpensive hand crank ring grinder. I don't recall how much it cost at the moment though.

I didn't run thread cleaners through the head bolt threads, but tried to spray brake cleaner down there and threaded the old head bolts in to try and clean the big stuff out.

No, they just said 0.020 inches over. Ill look for that birth sheet. Thanks.

And the friggin cylinder walls aren't round...... Wtf was that shop thinking????

Someperson wrote:And the friggin cylinder walls aren't round...... Wtf was that shop thinking????

huh?