legacycentral bbs

Last night my parents were supposed to meet a guy from craigslist at an uninhabited house that belongs to a friend so that he could purchase some old typewriters.. I tried calling both of them but couldn't get an answer. I drove over to the house fearing the worst and pulled into the yard (the driveway is insanely steep). I heard a horrible noise and knew I had ran over something but put it in park and ran into the house only to find that everyone was fine. We couldn't get the car moved. Turned out I had bottomed out on a stump. To make a long story short we ended up putting rocks under the passanger side tires and wrapping a chain around the stump, then pulled it out with my mothers outback.

The heat shield has always rattled, especially when pulling out. But last night the car was rattling more quitely but also constantly. When in drive I could feel it in the shifter. I only drove it maybe a mile and a half after that. My father said to drive it to a garage about half a mile away so it could go up on a lift and be checked for damage. I thought he was taking the day off work so he could try fixing his truck (it broke down monday and isn't getting any fire) but come to find out he went to work and took my legacy. He has probably driven it 30 miles and tells me that it is slipping pretty bad and the transmission pan is probably caved in a couple inches.

How badly do you think this is going to damage the car?

It is a incredibly frustrating situation. The car was given to my twin sister and I (by a friend) who are 19 but it is in my fathers name. He doesn't particurly care if he messes it up. He did a lot of the work while pulling the engine back when the rear seal blew out but I paid for everything and was left trying to fix it when it wasn't running right. Now he might end up screwing the transmission up. And I already know his truck will have priority over it. But I will not drive it like it is and I would rather he not drive it either.

I have put a few hundred dollars in the car (radiator, cv's, seals) and it is a amazing little tank. Tuesday I even pulled the truck about half a mile with it. I don't want to loose it, especially at only 119,000 miles. I love it

Did you guys pull the pan to fix it? I caved my oil pan and transmission pan once. Oil pickup was in good shape, just replaced the oil pan. Transmission pan was nailed good and was leaking-- so it was knocked back out and resealed. I wouldn't drive it anymore with the transmission in that condition-- sounds like its a little late for that though.

Did it leak fluid?

Since this just happened last night we haven't tried to fix anything yet. He said that it did not slip on his way home from work, but only earlier in the day after getting off the interstate.
Nothing is leaking.

Somebody about 30 minutes from us is parting out a '91. They said the pan would be $15. It is compatable right?

We got his truck fixed. It was a corroded crank sensor wire. Now he has no reason to be driving the car and it can sit until this weekend and be fixed. I just don't know if I should still have it put on a lift before hand.. That way if anything else needs to be replaced we can figure it out now. i worry that with being a young chick the guy at the garage will try to take advantage of the situation and say that a bunch of stuff needs to be fixed.. Including what ever is making it miss and the rpm guage not to work (another story for a different day). In reality we can fix just about anything that it needs if we can figure out just what that is.

HI,
Does the POWER light flash 16 times when you put the key and turn to ON - Not start?

I made the mistake of lifting my Subie Outback by the transmission pan (early in my Subie repair days!) - put a dent in it and when I went to drive it, I got a Code. Pulled the code which was for a sensor....can't recall which one.

Drained the ATF and pulled the pan, and there was a broken wire that had gotten crushed by the pan. Spliced it back together, knocked out the pan's dent, reinstalled and filled it w/ATF - no Code and no other issues.

Here's a link and picture on page 2.....you may have to register (FREE) to see it all.

Yes, this is for newer model, but the 4EAT Transmission was essentially the same from '90-'98....and even the newer ones are 'related'.

You may just get that lucky, too.

Td

The power light turns and stays on but does not flash.

We are supposed to pick the pan up on Friday and I will not be using the car until we can put it on.

I looked at the link but don't see the picture on there. I registered but my account needs to be approved before I can sign on.

I am hoping everything is ok and that nothing bad has happened to it. They are tough little cars but I don't like the not having transportation and knowing that it is messed up.

I just realized that you were asking since the light flashes for the check engine light.. Thing is I KNOW it will is running errors for the knock sensor, purge selinoid and something else which I connot remember at this time.. But the light wasn't flashing

....???

The POWER light on the dash light will flash if there are codes stored in the transmission computer - this is separate from the CEL light.

The POWER light should come on w/the other dash lights and then go out or it will flash 16 times and then go out, IIRC.



And I suggest you get the knock sensor (KS) fixed ASAP as the car will run in 'limp' mode w/limited power (and lower MPG) 'til it's resolved. The KS was known to crack, which caused the issue. You can get new ones from auto parts stores - don't have to pay the dealer.

Td

Oh.. I guess I read wrong.=, I searched and thought I read that it had to do with the cel. Never mind in that. But still, I had the key in for about a minute and the light didn't cut off or flash.

I replaced the knock sensor already($10-ebay). Disconnecting the battery just didn't clear the code.

I just got back from picking the pan up. The man actually ended up selling us the WHOLE transmission for $15. We could have just taken the pan but I we figured wh not buy it all. Not sure if the whole thing is any good or not. He said he thought the torque converter went bad because it was dumping fluid. He replaced it and it was still leaking so he just decided to ditch the car. But there is no rear seal in the transmission and I doubt he messed with pulling it, so I'm betting it probably blew out like my car did earlier this year.

What is the transmission screen called? I have searched for "filter" and "screen" but cannot find a replacement.

sounds like a great find in any case

Here are instructions for checking the TCU for codes.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html


The screen in the trans isn't something you'll likely be able to find unless you get it from Subaru. You don't need to replace it unless it is damaged. If there's stuff in there, just back wash it with some mineral spirits or other cleaner.

Come to find out the pan wasn't caved in as bad as we thought, BUT it was caved in right at the oil intake. It was pretty much cupped half way around it, not leaving much space.

I bought a gasket and filter kit and went ahead and took the pan off and replaced it. It really wasn't that difficult.

The light that was mentioned before has flashed a couple times after we had the car back up and running but isn't flashing anymore. I've gotten it up to about 50mph so far and everything seems to be in order

I'd still suggest checking the TCU for codes.

Thanks Josh.. I didn't realize at first that reading transmission codes was seperate from reading engine codes.

The power light started flashing again. I checked it out and pulled a code 33. Speed sensor 2.

Any tips on what to do about that?

speed sensor 2 is the speed sensor in the dash.

Does the speedometer work fine? Have you gotten any speed sensor 2 codes from the ECU?

If the speedo works and you haven't gotten any codes from the ECU, then I'd suggest clearing the TCU codes and checking the wiring from the speed sensor in the dash to the TCU.

Page 35 of 82 from the wiring diagrams on my server show the routing and specific pin numbers.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... agrams.zip

If you continue to have issues, it's either the wiring or possible the reed switch used for the speed sensor.

The spedo works fine. As I said in the op the rmp guage doesn't. I may have missed it, but how do you. Clear the tcu? It has been a while since I checked the ecu but I will try to today and see if anything new is on it

Pull fuse 14 labeled (EGI/TCU) from the fuse panel at the driver's kick panel for 30-45 minutes. That will reset the ECU & TCU.

I pulled a 33, 35, 22 and 15. So it is showing a speedo code.. I guess I will clear the codes and see if they come back

I pulled the fuse to reset everything. The only code I am getting between the tcu and ecu is just the one for the knock sensor. I drove it around the block and even floored it but that is all I am coming up with right now.

Is the CEL on? Or is it off, and you're just getting a code 22?

If the CEL is on, I'd suggest getting a new or a good knock sensor so the code goes away and the car gets out of limp mode.