legacycentral bbs

OK,

so I got the 5 spd in ( YAY ) and now I am trying to figure out what wiring stuff I need to adjust, so I hooked up the battery and didnt have a problem getting the key out, but I did remove the shift lock box ( black box next to the tcu ) but not sure what else I am gonna need to do, what I am really concerned with the reverse lights. the cruise control etc is not really really necissary for now.

any help is appreciated..

thanks,
Nate

I'm sure DLC can chime in on this post, but I'm glad you were able to get the tranny on . . . I'm assuming the flywheel came in on time?

There are two things you need to do.....mainly.

First the manual tranny will have the backup light connector....it may or may not be the same.......and depending on if you have the other connector, you should be able to just splice the existing wires into it.

The shift lock thing.......you probably should've left it there, and just wired it in with the clutch interlock system, so the car won't start unless the clutch is pressed in.

Cruise....not exactly sure what else needs to be wired up....or what was connected to the transmission.

yea the flywheen was perfect,

I can plug the interlock back in, i have yet to replace the covers under the dash so its fine.

what about some wire I need to cut for the ecu to know its a manual now?

thx

nate

Glad I could help.

You have a turbo, right? The turbo ECUs were all the same, manual or automatic, but the N/A ECUs differed... I don't know if it really mattered though.

I don't think the turbo ECUs actually used the transmission identification pin (pin 20 on the 22-pin connector); the specs in my service manual say there should be 5 volts on that pin on any turbo model.

The ECU is the same....regardless of MT or AT.....this is the same for both n/a & turbo cars.

You have to snip the tranny identifier lead on the ECU. I can double check the pinout when I get home.

I'll have to look and make sure which wire i actually cut in order to set the ECU to "Manual" mode instead of Auto.

I haven't ever hooked up the Neutral switch, Reverse lights or Cruise. Lex has done this, but he's on a VERY long vacation around the globe while his car sits in Quebec somewhere.

I think i have some emails that detail some of this information, but most of it was via ICQ and i lost the logs when an IBM 75GXP went south.

Dave

That wire would likely be the aforementioned pin 20. The neutral switch is pin 10 on the 12-pin connector.

Having done a tranny swap on my brother's Mk2 Supra, we're just going to run our own wires for the reverse lights. It's easier than figuring out all the OEM stuff, and I figure I can put heavier wire while I'm at it so he can use higher wattage reverse lights. We just bypassed the starter interlock by jumpering some wires that looked fat enough to carry starter current. It's kind of funny, though... we didn't bother to look for and disconnect the TCU, so the "O/D Off" light keeps blinking on his dash.

Yeah it's pin 20 on Connector B48.

This is for the 90 MY....so I don't think it has the turbo info per say....but has info for it.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... _page1.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... _page2.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... _page3.jpg

thanks,
it appears the prob at this second is it wont start though, everthing turns on, but when I twist to start I get nothing, I plugged the old auto shifter in so I could keep it in park etc but I still get nothing, I am about to put a damn push to start button in the thing and just skip all this..

any ideas?

nate

Do you get any clicks? or just nothing?

Here's what I gather from my service manual:

On the 12-pin connector, pin 9 is supposed to represent Park and pin 10 represents Neutral.

Pin 9 should be grounded for the ECU to think the automatic transmission is in park, or positive voltage (at least 8v) for it to think it's not in Park.

Pin 10 should be grounded for the ECU to think the automatic transmission is in Neutral or that the manual transmission is in gear. Positive voltage (again at least 8 volts) makes it think the automatic is not in neutral or that the manual is in neutral.

This leads me to believe that if you cut the transmission ID line so that the ECU knows you have a manual transmission, hooking up the old automatic shifter won't work, since the signals are different. Have you tried, though, hooking up the auto shifter and putting it in Drive?

Then again, this might have nothing to do with the ECU, since I'm not sure the ECU has anything to do with controlling the starter motor itself.

Oh, another tidbit of potentially useful knowledge:

In an originally automatic Legacy, there's a connector somewhere called B15. It's a gray connector with 12 pins, arranged in a 4x3 pattern. It mates with a connector E18. Pins 11 and 12 need to be shorted together for the car to start; this is what the automatic transmission's inhibitor switch does. My service manual says these pin 11 has a red wire with a yellow stripe, and pin 12 has a blue wire with a red stripe.

This connector is, I believe, the one that connects your shifter lever to the transmission control unit. Simply jumpering these pins ought to override the starter inhibitor completely.

great!!! thanks for the help guys,
I just tried wiring in a push switch for the moment and I am beginning to think that my starter I got for the MT may be bad..... so I am gonna pull it now and try to jump the starter and see if I get anything. BTW no I got no clicks no nothin.... so close yet so far away!!!!


nate

Augh, that's frustrating!

So AT and MT starters are not interchangeable?

i just finished doing the conversion on my 91 turbo. the starters are different between the two. get a rebuilt mt one and send them back the at one as the core.

I did have the one from the MT, the prob was in the soliniod , there was a bad connection. its all fixed now, starts and drives good