legacycentral bbs

As I've commented on in a couple other places I'm in the process of cleaning up my engine bay while I'm waiting for the $$$ to finish my engine. I've never really liked how subaru routed the harness' in the engine bay of their older cars and I'm deleting my ABS, my AC is long gone and I need to add circuits for the COP set up I'll be running with my Robtune once the engine is back in. So I'm taking this opportunity to move all circuits that use the three connectors located behind the battery in the engine bay so that they now enter the engine bay with the bulkhead harness at the firewall on the passengers side, as well as adding my ignition circuits and deleting all ABS and AC circuits...here...we...go...

LOOK MA NO DASH!


LOOK PA NO HVAC


Here is the main bulkhead harness pulled away from the firewall and partially unwrapped


At this point I removed the front chassis harness and front fuse box from the drivers side and front of the car so I can isolate and begin to move the circuits that need to be re-routed through the bulkhead harness. This is the front harness, in the bottom right corner are the passenger headlight and corner marker connectors, bottom left is driver side lights, center is front fuse box and engine harness connectors and top left are the inside fuse box, ECU, and bulkhead harness connectors


Harness unwrapped


And finally for today here are the circuits isolated, looks worse than a rats nest at this point but it makes sence to me.


I'll be finalizing this harness and rewrapping it soon. I'll also be moving the front fuse box outside of the engine bay probably into the fender aria before we are done here.

I don't envy you in doing this work

I'm a sick individual, I know, I actually injoy this type of thing lol

Wiring is a very meticulous job. I can do it, and I like doing it right....but I know how much work it is....which is why I don't envy you

Wow, looks like you work in the subaru factory assembly area. Do you have any idea where the circuit is for the rear window heater wires? Is there a relay for it?

The relay is located at the in car fuse box under the dash. If you look directly at the fuse box its the relay at the top left. As for the circuit it's different depending on if you have a wagon or sedan, but the power wire is the passenger side connector at the window for both. If its a wagon check the harness where it exits the main body and travels to the rear hatch, that flex point is notorious for having broken wires.

Its a sedan. Power wire is passeger side at the WINDOW ??? Is it behind the passenger kick panel? How does it go from there?
Along the floor? I haven't studied it yet my wife said she was told it was there (behind kick panel) that was before I was in the picture 10 plus years ago.

The circuit itself runs from the relay at the fuse box to the switch in the dash then from there across the dash to the passengers side of the car then down to the floor where the main body harness is then back to the window. I highly doubt you have a harness issue, its probubly the switch, relay or a broken connection somewhere at the window.

Got a little update. I've completely separated and labeled the circuits from the front harness, added signal wires for the COP and have deleted unnecessary wires. The wife went and got me connectors and heat shrink today from a fantastic electrical supply store in town that I had no idea of until recently. Good prices too, 26 22-18AWG non insulated crimp connectors and 5 FEET of epoxy heat shrink for $12.09!



I also wasn't fuzzy with the bubble wrap and sandwich ecu board to make the 20g ecu fit in the leg location so i just cut off all the tabs from both housings and had a guy at work tack on the leg tabs to the 20g housing. The black stuff is epoxy we use at work to seal transoms when we repower the boats, its patching up the holes left behind from the 20g tabs.



Only parts left to buy are wire to finish extending/adding circuits and one of these bad boys!

^ where do you find connectors like that? I've been thinking of cleaning up/tucking my car, and can see where something like that could be useful

http://www.wirecare.com/
This is the best and least complicated place I've found so far but be warned these connectors are not cheep. They also require a very expensive special crimping tool and unless you buy a used one the don't come with pigtails. You have to crimp the pins to the wires then assemble the connectors. The connector I need is going to cost me about $130 including the crimp tool rental, this is the only place I've found that will rent the tool out. I found this place buy googling "deutsch connector", they are also referred to as MIL spec connectors but I believe their officially called cannon connectors. Deutsch is a brand that has refined this type of connector and has somewhat of a corner on the market when it comes to automotive applications. If cash is no object then look for "autosport connector" super lightweight racecar type application but HOLY $$$$

Is that a paw or table leg in the top right of the top picture?

Looks good though!

Legacy777 wrote:Is that a paw or table leg in the top right of the top picture?

Looks good though!

Paw lol she's my faithful apprentice, even if she looks at me like I'm retarded for not playing with the wires instead of laying them out!

im excited to see the outcome and the abs delete! i havent seen a clean subi abs delete i like yet. we did it on hondas but they are less to work with and form over function which i dont like.

Its a bit off topic but the abs delet is really easy, all you need is the front hard lines, prop valve from a non ABS car and, in the case of the turbo legs at least, an SVX master cylinder. The SVX master cylinder has the same piston size as the turbo leg master cylinder but has the 4 outlets needed to run the lines. Its easily done in a day, I just need to get parts.

I thought you had to replace the rear lines as well?

Nope, we did this a year ago on my buddies car when he put his Brembos on, original rear lines come out of the firewall and straight up to the non abs prop valve where they need to be, easy as pie. Is just a little difficult removing and replacing the lines that run against the firewall to the MC and down to the front brakes with the engine installed, but not that bad.

Got the front harness in the car and am working on brackets for the fuse box and some final touch ups before I start tearing into the bulkhead harness. Will have pics soon.

ok well when you get it ready put some pics up!

subytech wrote:Its a bit off topic but the abs delet is really easy, all you need is the front hard lines, prop valve from a non ABS car and, in the case of the turbo legs at least, an SVX master cylinder. The SVX master cylinder has the same piston size as the turbo leg master cylinder but has the 4 outlets needed to run the lines. Its easily done in a day, I just need to get parts.

Just an FYI, the 1-1/16" bore four port MC's only came on the FWD non-abs SVX's which were available in the 94-95 MY's and maybe some of the 96 MY's.

Thanks for the reminder, now that you say that I do remember this! It has been awhile since we did the conversion on my buddies car.

Just incase anyone is still watching this I'm still here. No progress so far since the holidays, was quite buisy with all the family in town, and now I'm swamped with side work, picked up 3 possibly 4 headgasket reseal jobs in the last few weeks so once those are done I'll start back on this.

I would really like to see your steps for the ABS delete if you still haven't done it yet even though this thread is a little old.