legacycentral bbs

so as I start to tear into my MC job I notice that my Non-abs setup is a 3 port MC w/ the hill holder. I need to figure out how the heck to do a hill holder delete while i'm at this... do i just hardline the 2 fronts and send the rears to the prop valve and done or???

can't quite read the diagram to trace it and my subie is in the snow still... so it's a bitch to trace them back

From what I can see in the FSM, the line coming from the FSM to the hill holder splits and goes out of the hill holder to the front left and rear right wheels. I would suggest verifying this, but that's what the FSM states.

When you install the SVX MC you need to find replacement hard lines from a non-abs AT car from the MC to the left front wheel, and from the MC to the proportioning valve. These two lines should be relatively easy to replace. The one for the left front wheel just drops down and under the frame rail, while the one to the proportioning valve runs along the fire wall. Make sure you get the correct line from the MC to the proportioning valve....since there are two.

If you still have any questions, let me know.

Ill be doing this during the next few months. Svx mc w/Abs delete and swapping in used NA non-turbo lines and technafit ss lines and lgt brakes. Any info would be great.

Kimo, you'll also want to swap the proportioning valve, as the abs & non-abs use a different proportioning valve. Everything else should just be swapping the hard lines in the engine bay to the front wheels and to the proportioning valve.

That's the grey or black box thing by the passenger strut tower, correct? I unbolted the complete brake lines assembly including that block that I assumed was the proportiining valve. Can't wait to ditch my abs. It'll be easier to work on the engine and abs sucks anyways.

Yeah the ABS one is kind of rectangular at the base and circular towards the top.

Here's the non-turbo one

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... valve1.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... valve2.jpg

Pretty sure I have that. Thanks.

Ok so you'll need an m10x1.0 union and a 6" or so piece of hard line. I used the line from the hill holder to the mc to tie the front drivers side in. Will post pics in a bit after i bleed them. But it took me an hr and a half to thread the last hard line in... Was a huge pita

Hmm, I'll figure it out. I'd like to bend my own lines and run them through the wiper linkage trough. Then rewire/reroute the engine harness and move my fuse box. Tuck my bay honda style. Eventually. I wonder how hard/expensive it is to make your own lines. Don't want to do anything that's going to risk mine, or more importantly others' lives. Safety first.

You'll need a flare tool and a pipe cutter and bender and line is like $1 a foot or so

I've got pipe benders and deburring tools just need brakeline and nuts and the flare tool. I'm seeing prices for decent to good brands ranging from $220-$700! That will probably have to wait.

220-700 for WHAT?

Eastwood tool $220 shipped
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-br ... MgodpmIAUw

I can't find the more expensive ones now for some reason. Forgot what I searched for. There's a lot in the $30-$80 range but should I trust those? Anybody with significant experience building brake lines have some input?

hi
all you really NEED is the $30 tool... the expensive ones are just a bit easier and a bunch quicker. and repeat better

Well if it does a good job not a semi-good job then alright. I don't want to redo the job and I obviously don't want to worry about a brake failure. I think I can definitely handle this job so long as my tools and supplies are on par.

link me the $80 tool

You just need to make sure the flaring tool you use does double edge flaring as that is what the factory uses.

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