legacycentral bbs

I'm just looking for some insight on what might be going on here. The car when I got it pulled pretty hard and it ran fine besides an exhaust leak. Now the car stumbles and gets choppy when I hit boost. Exhaust gets raspy and the car really just does not pick up anymore like it used it. Boost does not pull the car, it's pretty bad. And when it does boost it's like little spurts of boost and the car sounds like ass.

So far i've replaced;
fuel filter
air filter
spark plugs (ngk)
spark plug wires (duralast, I know I know but they're NEW)
OEM downpipe gasket (original one was toasted, bad)

Tonight me and a friend replaced all these in hopes to correct the issue. One thing to note is the knock sensor wire got screwed up, basically the clip broke in half a while ago so I just crimped the wires together. But we switched to a different knock sensor with a longer wire so we crimped the wires together and heat shrinked them. The thing is, now I can't get the knock sensor bolt into the threads. It will not tighten down into the hole, it's like I can't get it lined up or something. So theres one thing that's giving me random CEL's while driving. Anyway that's it's own deal. Even with the janky knock wire it still ran good.

Only thing left is my MAF and o2 sensor. But I'm wondering if there is anything i'm missing? I just want my car to pull again, it seriously sucks to drive now. I'm not sure what else to look for.

Turbo has no shaft play and I always run 91oct.

Have you pulled the codes?
The KS is a big part of timing you need to fix that for sure.
The bolt that holds the KS is some times hard to get started, the TB is in the way of getting a straight shot at it.

Check your catalytic converters. One of them might be plugged.

Could be fuel delivery, too. In what condition is your fuel pump?

coolant temp sensor.
speed sensor in trans.

I haven't pulled codes I will pull them today.
I have a 3" catless turbo back so that's not it for sure.
Fuel delivery, I haven't changed the pump nor do I know the condition. How do I check?
Speed sensor in trans, I didn't think about that. Coolant temp sensor isn't that much so i'll replace it.

Always pull codes first. Also as SQC mentioned replace your coolant sensors and fix your knock sensor immediately. There's no sense chasing down a problem knowing you have other problems that could be the actual problem or at least creating a more complex problem. You may have started to strip out the threads in the knock sensor. Fix that wire. Don't do poor job replacing it though, make sure it's done right. You may need to go to the junkyard and source a new wire, possibly all the way back to the ECU.

Thanks Kimo, I know what you mean, Okay so I put the newer knock sensor back in and did a good job on the wire a this time. My friend did the wire last night and used poor connectors and I got it threaded into the hole, there is No CEL now and it seems to be running a lot better. Do I get the coolant temp sensor from the dealer? Also I just drove it and the exhaust rattle is still there and pissing me off, I am just going to replace the header and both up pipe gaskets so I know for sure. I think that is definitely causing performance issues.

Pull the codes now. It's easy to do. Connect both black connectors under your steering wheel column and turn the key to "on". Then watch the CEL and count the blinks. Long blinks are the first digit, short blinks are the second digit. There's a pause between codes. Report back. Search for trouble codes and you'll find a link to josh's site outling the whole procedure and a list of codes and what they mean.

I've never had to replace the coolant sensors. There's two and I don't know which is the one you need to replace or if it's both. I think one is just for the gauge and the other is actually what the ECU uses to adjust fuel for cold start. It can really cause problems with how the car runs though if it goes back.

ill be getting a coolant temp sensor and speed sensor from my dealer that I broker for. i get a discount. if you want, ill just order 2 of each. i usually dont get stuff like this from junkyards cause its only a matter of time before it goes again.
lmk, ill get them for u and ship them out.

How much is the coolant temp sensor? Maybe ill get one just in case.

The coolant temp sensors run around $20 or a little above. However, if you're not having starting issues or if the car isn't running a little rich, it's probably fine.

I just meant if he's hooking it up with a discount maybe ill get one in case mine ever goes bad.

Mine runs a wee bit rich, so I'm picking em up. Ill get u guys prices on Monday.

Mine does too on wot but it idles excellently.

Knock sensor came out, thought it was in but it wasn't. I literally tried for 2 hours me and a buddy to get the bolt to threat but no. We even took the TB off. The bolt threads in fine but not with the knock sensor around the bolt. It just won't go. So we're thinking it needs a longer bolt. I also picked up an OEM Coolant Temp sensor for 24.99

Weird. It would be obvious if the bolt was too short because it would be flush on the sensor and not be threaded at all. Did you buy this sensor or was it on there when you got it? Maybe someone put the wrong bolt there?

sqc, thanks but I already picked one up today.

I'll check the codes in the morning. As far as the bolt, it was in there already. It seemed to be tight when I pulled it out. I am gonna get a slightly longer bolt tomorrow and see how that works out. That location is a pain.. I really hope the damn bolt will thread in. It makes no sense other than the wrong bolt. It threads in perfectly fine without the sensor so at least it's not stripped

The bolt goes in at a slight angle. (Head facing toward the firewall)

So I finally got the bolt in. We had to get a slightly longer bolt from ACE hardware. I'm thinking that the first few threads on the hole may have been stripped out. The knock sensor is tight, wired well and not throwing any codes. I put the new coolant temp sensor in also, the old one was kinda rusted on the threads and didn't look that great. It runs a lot better but still having the hesitation on boost. I think my Uppipe gaskets might be fried. The PO doesn't know for sure what gaskets are in right now, it's an Invidia pipe. I'm gonna go to the dealer and get the OEM header and both up pipe gaskets, then i'll know for sure. it the up pipe would make sense, if theres a leak it's gonna affect spool up and boost. So i'm hoping for the best.

Are you going to pull the codes? You're killing me robert! You skip the easiest task and do all the harder stuff. I doubt its an exhaust leak. I was missing my up pipe to header gasket altogether and it was leaking and I didn't notice ny issue nor did it noticeably improve when I put one in.

^agreed... Pull codes, go from there and save some money. Have you tried cleaning your grounds?

Shit sorry! I keep forgetting! I WILL check codes on my lunch break and report back. You're right about skipping the easiest task.. haha.

Okay. Black connectors plugged in, on position, CEL steadily flashes meaning no trouble I think?

Edit: did d check mode. I started it and no cel popped, I drove it and taking off from a light it came on and read 32 which is an o2 sensor. Then after a minute it just blinked steady over and over.

Steady blink means no codes.