legacycentral bbs

Receiving car:
95 Legacy L
4eat ej22

Donor: 1998 phase 1 ej25

I have brought to swap and motor to the point of an attempted first start, followed the FSM and surreal mirage site to a T, routed the clutch switch and relay into the ignition circuit under the dash.. merged the NSS and backup lights into a plug and play with the AT harness,

Problem:
Going to turn the key to acc position we can get the radio and interior stuff mostly on but when the key turns nothing happens at all, no fuel pump, nothing, although the key gets a little bit harder to turn, no dash lights other than the door open light

When I plug in the TCU I get a at oil temp and fwd light but then nothing else


Everything appears connected and I'm not sure what's up I'm out of a car til I fix it help!


Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2

going to swap the ej25 engine harness onto the ej22

completely forgot about the 95's and their unique wiring

if im not mistaken, everything will plug in? i dont see why it wouldnt as theyre both phase 1 motors..

bump

It sounds like the ECU is not getting power. When the ECU gets power the check engine light should come on. Have you verified that you are getting power to the ECU when the key in the ON position?

Are you able to put the ignition wiring back to the way it was? I would suspect that might be the problem or something with how the relay is wired.

no, i dont think the ecu is getting power either, only light that comes on it my door open light

i was a little hazy on how to hook up the starter harness, on the 2.2 AT starter, the post was on the side, the 2.5s MT started has two identical posts right next to one another, i attached the + to the side closest to the LHD side

well, i swapped to the 2.2L harness, cut and merged a couple plugs from the 2.5, still nothing, i get dome lights, radio,

moved the (+) to the starter to the other post and as soon as the battery was hooked up it started whirring so i switched it back the the other post

there is no power to the dash or ECU, IGN fuse and all under the hood including Fuseable link are good

going to check the ECU ground and make sure i reconnected the rest of the harness tightly when i hooked it up

Hi,
Over on the USMB site, tons of people have done the reverse swap EJ22>>EJ25 due the 2.5 head gasket issue. When this is done (I've done 2 myself) about the only thing on the engine that needs tweaked are the vacuum lines to the charcoal canister (Legacy 2.2 is under hood; 2.5 Outback/GT is in back of car). Everything else is the same.

The ECU will run it 'as is' too. - leave the original ECU installed. And it will run the MT or AT as you just need to change the one wire @ the ECU that ID's the trans type.

From what I've seen in the FSM the pin-outs changed - @ the ECU - in '97 for the EJ22/EJ25 for the Legacys and Imprezas . So, not sure the '98 ECU would work @ all in the '95.

And just to make sure, your '95 EJ22 has the EGR valve on the driver's side of the intake manifold, correct? Same as all DOHC 2.5's from '96-99.

Does sound like a power issue to the ECU.

As stated, I'd check your Grounds.

GL,
TD

yes, i do have the EGR as well as the replacement 2.5

im running the original 2.2L ECU and wiring, even the 2.2L engine harness on the 2.5

i feel like i may be missing a ground but not sure where as i see no loose cords in the bay, have the starter harness ground, alt harness ground and the battery to body ground, about to check the ECU, update later

There should be a ground from the intake manifold to the chassis on the passenger side, IIRC....but can't believe that would cause a 'no-start' condition.
TD

^i actually saw that one was missing, but it was gone when the motor was running in the car it came from, too, so i agree

the ECU seemed tight, unless there's a ground straight off one of those pins - (beside the AT/MT one i added) - that side of things is set

here's a pic of how i wired the clutch switch and relay into the ignition circuit, maybe i did it wrong?:

btw- the blue side goes into the ign and the black side goes toward the firewall, changed plugs around with the forester's to keep it plug and play...

Hopefully, Legacy777 will get back on here. Wiring is not my forte.
TD

well i pulled that harness apart and redid it all... dash lights come on, tried to crank it to see if itd do anything... nothing at all..

i didn't hear the fuel pump or any relevant relays turn on, but at least i have power and what not to the dash again

small goals, i am happy for the night

my battery is at .....like, 5% or less so i wasnt expecting anything anyways, ill have to wait until the morn and get a jump

the only thing i did not do was swap any timing components which i briefly read about somewhere and it got me all sketched out...

but i guess we'll see tomorrow

I bet that when you get your battery juiced-up you may be driving....or @ least starting.

No need to swap anything...just bolt it in, plug it in, and it should have started. The 5-speed swap adds to the possible issues of course, but the engine swap is just that easy (or should be ).

There are some differences in the Phase 2 ('99+) EJ-series engines' cam/crank sprockets, but that's not related to this swap.

TD

It was definitely the sprockets they were talking about, good there,

I'm still getting nothing (charged battery this time) when I go to start, dash lights all good, I even hear some clicking on the pass use of the bay (abs pump?) But when I go to start there is just silence

Starter harness is tight, grounds are good... its like the igniter cord that plugs into into the starter doesn't work but it did when I ran this car last so Idk!

I'm so close its killing me, ha

Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2

Looking at the black and blue plugs I think you have them wired properly. As for the relay, that I'm not sure. You could try jumpering the two wires together that come from the black & blue connectors to the relay. If the starter cranks, then you have that relay wired improperly or the clutch switch may not be working/wired properly.

Here's my wiring setup.

Yeah man, I've been studying the electrical part of your website religiously

Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2

alright this is ridiculous, i took the clutch switch out of the IGN circuit and instead wired it to 11 and 12 of the AT harness in the bay, im getting all dash lights, but still. no. crank.

i even closed the circuit for the P position switch from the AT shifter, which i read somewhere completed the fuel pump circuit - this probably is irrelevant info anyways

i'm reading right off of the FSM and its still not working


is the relay bad? the clutch switch? how can i even tell? It was all working the day i pulled it from the forester and it went directly into the Legacy so i dont even know where to attempt troubleshooting at this point

can i bypass the starter interlock relay at all? could this have anything to do with my motor seizing in the legacy? maybe a failsafe mode? dont see how thatd be it since both the motor and trans are from different vehicles and the ECU has been reset many times

this 4 day swap is approaching it's 4th week here realllll soon

You can bypass the starter interlock relay. Just plug the wiring back the way it was when it had an auto trans.

at this point, i dont even remember the way it was.. the ignition (blue and black hybrid plugs) i connected straight and hooked up normally again

then took wires from 11 and 12 straight to the relay and switch, is that what you meant?

or are you suggesting i dont need the clutch switch and relay at all?

See in my wiring the two black plugs? Those go inbetween the ignition switch wiring and the chassis wiring. Was your car the same way? If so, that needs to go back to the way it was.

I'm not quite sure where the blue plug in your wiring harness went unless they changed the connectors on the later models. Can you clarify what you did?

wires 11 & 12 at the AT connector needs to be connected together. They must stay connected for the starter to work. Are you absolutely positive you're reading the wiring diagrams correctly?

Read over this thread to make sure you're reading them correctly.

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=51176

yeah, my bad, the Legacy had the two black plugs connecting to one another for the IGN, the Forester had Blue plugs.

since they were different shapes i just switched the plugs around to retain the plug and playability, if the harness i pictured disappeared, inside of the car i'd have one blue and one black

as for 11 and 12, you're saying just connect those together into a loop? this is new info to me as ive not done this yet!!!!

is that what you did here?


i only have two wires going into my reverse light switch-went to 9/10 with those per FSM.. so should be good there

so if i loop 11/12 to themselves what becomes of the switch and relay for the clutch? throw it back into the IGN circuit or just leave those out?

imma go pull that wiring again and loop those two- i had them running to the relay.

so i looped 11 and 12 to one another and put the relay and switch back in the ign circuit, when i went to turn it on.........

it didnt start up but my battery is pretty dead and needs a jump again

but i heard a click that sounds like dead battery start but my ECU buzzed, i took the key out, waited a few seconds and tried again but there were no dash lights coming on at all, i went to check the fuses and their good so i tried again, got the click and my ECU buzzed

i feel close.

Yes, without 11 & 12 looped the car won't start. You should have pins 11 & 12 looped, the reverse lights and the neutral switch hooked up. You need the neutral switch hooked up too or you'll get a CEL.

Yeah it sounds like your battery may be dead now. Try charging and see if it'll crank now.

cool, so started it up, i had a bouncing idle for a bit before it stables out then it'll randomly shoot up to 2500-3k and hang there for a second or two

white smoke coming out of the exhaust, thought it was burn off but its gone on too long

my EGR is smoking and if i breathe on the gas pedal it'll shoot to high rpm for a sec or two also

the only code im throwing is a P0115 "Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit".

Do you have another coolant temp sensor you can throw in to see if that fixes that code?