legacycentral bbs

So I wanted to change the color of my interior so I picked up an entire dash from the picknpull. I pulled the dash from a wagon and I've got an SS. When I went to put the instrument cluster back in I noticed that there was an extra plug included in the wiring now that wasn't there before. There's an empty spot on the back of my cluster (middle top) where the main plug goes...there's holes with solder. It was ready for another connector but I guess that was never added.

I test started the car. Starts fine, RPMs show, etc. But blinkers don't work, the ABS light is on, and there's no chime when the keys are in the car. In addition when the car is off the rear door light is on permanently and when I have other doors open, they don't light up.

Is this a problem because I used a dash out of a wagon? Or did something change in 92+ (I have a 91)? If it's the later, could I just find a speedometer from a manual sedan that is 92+ and plug it in (assuming it has both connectors)?

The car I took it from was a 93 Legacy L Wagon. Not sure if it was FWD/AWD or non-ABS/ABS. I could find out tomorrow.

EDIT: Or I just realized maybe this is because the car I took the dash out of was an automatic? If that's the issue, then I assume I'll need to do a little rewiring. Actually, I guess that can't be the case. Here's a '90 manual speedo that has the 2 plugs on the back:
http://www.tomsforeign.com/p-8101-speed ... anual.aspx

EDIT2: Every single ebay auction that has legacy speedos with pics of the rear show 2 connectors no matter if it's an auto or a manual. wtf mate.

Did you plug in the hazard switch? Does that work?

i second the hazard switch

Alphius wrote:Did you plug in the hazard switch? Does that work?

Son of a bitch. That made my turn signals work, haha. If I had just put it all back together before i tested it...

That at least gets it working enough for me to drive the car. I've done some more research and the clusters changed slightly after 91. Need to make sure all the lights are working, etc. The rear door open light is still permanently on though (that has gotta be wagon thing). I'll do some more testing tomorrow.

Worst case, I think I can buy an automatic cluster from the junkyard and put the manual bezel on it to hide the PRN123. That will ensure that all the wiring is connected perfectly.

I believe you are correct, the door indicators/hatch indicator thing is wagon specific.

Yes, you can take an automatic cluster and put the manual bezel over it. That works fine.

Just out of curiosity, why didn't you just swap your dash harness and cluster into the new dashboard before you installed the dashboard?

As you eluded to, the clusters are slightly different between years. My thread on my gauge cluster swap has more info.

This Excel spreadsheet has a quick breakdown of the differences.
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... n_Out.xlsx

You can repin the harness of the dash you currently have in the car. That would probably be the easiest and least amount of money. However, if you are not interested or not good with wiring, then finding a gauge cluster from a similar model year would be the next option. You can then swap your speedo into it to keep the mileage the same.

Legacy777 wrote:As you eluded to, the clusters are slightly different between years. My thread on my gauge cluster swap has more info.

This Excel spreadsheet has a quick breakdown of the differences.
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... n_Out.xlsx

You can repin the harness of the dash you currently have in the car. That would probably be the easiest and least amount of money. However, if you are not interested or not good with wiring, then finding a gauge cluster from a similar model year would be the next option. You can then swap your speedo into it to keep the mileage the same.

So I went to the junkyard. Found a 92, automatic (wanna try and eventually use the PRN123 for DCCD), non-airbag that had the exact same mileage as my car (within 100miles). Plugged it all in and everything seemed to work. Airbag and ABS weren't swapped and the doors lit up correctly. I go to start the car and the tach doesn't seem to work. If i rev the car the tach moves just a little so I assume it's getting a signal. Looks like I got a broken tach? Can I pull the tach from my old cluster and use that? Or should I return the entire thing? Or is there something else that could be causing this?

So I pulled it apart and put my old tach in there and now it works fine. I think the new one was just a little stuck. When i moved it, it wouldn't bounce back to 0 but after I played with it for awhile it started to. I just put the one I knew worked in there and now that seems fine.

I'm now throwing a 22 and 23 CEL (not sure if they will be active when I drive it, but they are new and stored) but I think if I wipe them they won't come back. Long story short the engine was a quart low on oil and I ran it for about 30 seconds. Started to hiccup and I immediately shut it off realizing that I hadn't added more oil yet. I added a quart and started it and let it idle for 5min and it sounded great. Oil pressure slowly came down from 100 to 80 before I turned it off Big screw up on my part but I don't see how those CELs could have anything to do with the dash swap. Here's me crossing my fingers.

I'll have it all back together tomorrow and I'll post my results.

Cleared the ECU, threw a seat in and took it for a test drive. Everything seems to work perfectly now. 22 and 23 didn't pop back up. Just 41 and 51 that I've had for awhile. Still no idea how to get rid of 41 :\

Is your car currently a MT or AT equipped car? Is that the original transmission or did you swap it at any time?

Legacy777 wrote:Is your car currently a MT or AT equipped car? Is that the original transmission or did you swap it at any time?

Originally a MT, but has a 6spd swap. So I'm pretty sure that's where the 51 code comes from. It's the 41 that is so annoying.

Well I've learned that these ECU's can be a little finicky sometimes. I'd suggest trying to get the neutral switch hooked up so the ECU sees that. Once you have all the known things fixed, then we can work on code 41.

If you use just the green connectors, is code 41 the only thing to come up?

Legacy777 wrote:Well I've learned that these ECU's can be a little finicky sometimes. I'd suggest trying to get the neutral switch hooked up so the ECU sees that. Once you have all the known things fixed, then we can work on code 41.

If you use just the green connectors, is code 41 the only thing to come up?

In my short amount of time with first gen legacys I can concur that the ECUs are finicky

41 and 51 both come up when I use the green connectors. But 51 seems to be really random and inconsistent. It doesn't always come up. I'm just glad the car seems to run fine with 41 present.

I'll read up on the neutral switch and start a new thread when I'm ready to tackle the 41 code. Thanks again for your help.