legacycentral bbs

Sorry to double post, but I figure ill just include the gist of what we're doing. I'm working on T-LEGGY's car, 93' Turbo Wagon with a 5spd swap. It currently has an SAFC wired in, but I am pretty sure it's not configured. It has previously been tuned, but I think somewhere along the way everything in the setting got screwed up..

Has a push button start, FYI. Key crank is disabled.

Some background; He had the car, motor broke a bearing, so they did a rebuild. Ran breifly after rebuild then it wouldn't start. Someone else traced it all down to no spark due to bad ignition wiring. They tried a different coilpack, ignitor, cam and crank sensors+wiring, etc.

I've checked the main ground, and added a ground from the casing of the ECU to the frame, just for good measure. Also the CEL is out so I cant check for codes. Haven't checked the bulb, tried two ecu's with the same outcome. Will check the bulb tomorrow. Also the D-Check and main code connectors change weather the door beeps or not, is that weird or what? Also the fans go full blast when I unplug the B48 connector off the ECU...


Main question; if the SAFC isn't setup right can it affect spark?

Secondly; I am not entirely sure where the ignitor wires go, I thought they all went to the ECU but I cant find a direct route. Need some assistance with that if possible..

To start, pull the cluster out and fix the bulb if it's burnt out. Yes the ignitor wires go to the ecu, you can find out which plug they go to if you look in the electrical sticky and pull up the turbo legacy ecu pinout. It's been atleast 5 years since i had the safc in my turbo wagon, but i know there were very few wires to tap into when installing it. Does the safc power on? You will probably want to the the MAF wire where the safc taps into it. I think I had to cut the MAF wire when I installed mine. SAFC means Super Air Fuel Controller, you cut the MAF wire and install the controller in the middle of the MAF wiring so it can "make the ecu think it's getting more or less air." If that MAF wire isn't connected somewhere then the car wont start.

Thanks CJ. I will double check the MAF wire. The SAFC powers on and connects to the ECU, looks like everything is wired up just fine.

The problem we have is there is no spark. I have the pin out printed up and have the 2 wires listed, I just need to figure out where the other wires off the igniter need to be wired to.

It almost sounds like the ECU may not be powering on. Have you verified that you are getting power to the main ECU power supply pins? This would explain why the CEL is not coming on with multiple ECU's.

You didn't mention this, but did you check for fuel, or have you just checked for spark and didn't find any?

Also, the ECU does not ground through the case, so you can remove that additional wire.

Also the D-Check and main code connectors change weather the door beeps or not, is that weird or what? Also the fans go full blast when I unplug the B48 connector off the ECU...

Can you please clarify what you meant here?


It sounds like you may have multiple electrical issues due to poor wiring jobs.

I have NOT verified that we are getting ECU power. With the dummy lights on the CEL is out.. not sure if that still means no ECU power.

If I unplug B48 from the ECU, the fans turn on full blast... just the plug, and I can leave the other plugged in.

Wiring looks like a hackjob for the most part.. but its not as bad as the stroker that I had for a minute..

So the door beep, if I open the door with the key in, it will only beep when the CEL check connectors (black) are plugged in. If I unplug them, the door alarm will not beep... strange.

We ARE getting fuel, just not spark. And from what I was told, they narrowed it down to the Ignitor needed to be rewired due to a bad wire at the firewall. Tried a different ignitor and coilpack, still a no go.

The car never ran after the rebuild. We spent a few short days at the end of last summer trouble shooting and then I had to go off to school and couldn't work on it.

Okay so I replaced the CEL bulb and we got 22 and 13, knock and cam. So I will be checking the continuity of the cam wires to the ECU tomorrow, if those are good the only thing I can sum up is that timing is off. If timing is off will that throw a cam code?

No, if the timing is off, you will not get any code.

So I rewired both the knock and cam sensors with no change, both sensors are new. Here is the timing;

Drivers cam appears to be off 2 teeth. Cant tell from the pictures if the crank and passenger timing marks are in the correct spot..

Your timing is probably ok since the marks on the belt align properly, but you should be using the timing marks on the cam sprockets and crank gear instead of the marks on the belt. The belt is not always going to have the marks at the correct spot and match up with the marks on the sprockets & gear.

Okay. Josh can you link me an FSM of the engine and chassis grounds? I'm thinking they missed a ground when installing the motor.

This is for the chassis ground

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/fil ... tion16.jpg

The ECU ground is on the back side of the driver's side intake manifold.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... G_4042.JPG

Still no spark after like two months of checking. Checked just about everything. Anyone got any last resort ideas?