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I did a coffee cup mod from the intake parts wall at O'Reilly's. I cleaned the MAF at the same time. Now I'm getting the following CELs: cam angle, crank angle, and improper MAF. I used a 3" straight pipe with a silicone reducer to 2.5". I'm wondering if the soft silicone reducer could be leaking and throwing the MAF code?

Any ideas what usually throws the cam & crank codes?

I'm also getting a big oil puddle on the top passenger side of the block, but I haven't torn that apart yet. Probably for another post.

Thanks,
Trevor

trevorno wrote: I'm also getting a big oil puddle on the top passenger side of the block, but I haven't torn that apart yet. Probably for another post.

Thanks,
Trevor

Hey I have seen this happen a bunch on my older subarus. It's been the oil pressure switch every time, seeping oil at the top of the switch where the signal wire connects to the metal tab then puddling on the passenger side. The switch is right behind the alternator on the engine block. It wouldn't hurt to have a quick look there. If it is the problem, it is a very cheap and easy fix. You should be able to just look behind the alternator first without taking anything apart to see if that's the problem. Good luck!

I would suggest clearing the codes and check if they come right back. Also, I'd suggest performing the active diagnostics using just the green connectors.

I doubt all those things are bad, especially if the car was working fine before.

So I unplugged the battery to clear the codes. Those codes are gone, now I have a knock sensor code. Could a bad HLA throw the knock sensor? I haven't changed out the passenger side hla's yet.

Or are knock sensor codes usually a problem with the sensor itself? I think when I put the motor back in, I had to re-strip the ks wire and re-crime it in the snap in harness.

On the oil leak, I teflon taped the oil pressure sensor, then found the breather hose from the head had come loose where it connects at the top of the block. The hose itself had stretched out and was likely spewing oil onto the top of the block. I bought new hose and clamped it down. I drove it like it was stolen for 6-7 miles and it's dry as a bone so far. Sweet!

A HLA shouldn't cause the knock sensor code to come up. I'd double check your wiring crimp and suggest using a multimeter to check the continuity of the wiring from knock sensor connector to the ECU connector.

Pics of "coffee cup mod"? I had just found similar parts and was wondering if I could use them to do this mod.

Here is the mod I used. I took my turbo resonator in to O'Reilly's and matched up the hose connectors. They found a heater hose connector to use for one of them. I used JB plastic weld to secure them into the 3" pipe I used instead of the coffee cup. I've had it on there for a month or so and it seems to be holding so far.