legacycentral bbs

Ok guy for the past week Iv been trying to get this right with no luck. ( wiring is not my best subject) Iv got a 91ss I've done the auto to manual swap on but I can't get the clutch switch to function correctly on the car resolting in complete boost cut as the ecu donest know its in gear. I followed the wiring done in this guide http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swa ... ml#neutral my issue I believe is in the b15 auto connector and wiring it to the clutch pedal. At first the car would start with pedal up or down it didnt matter. After changing a couple of wire jumpers I have in the b15 connector and almost lighting the car on fire from me putting stuff backwards (my bad) I now have it to where the car will only start with clutch pedal up. I keep reading tho the b15 connector set up he has but can't see what I have wrong and don't want to burn the car to the ground( already had to replace about 2 feet of wire in body harness from my dumb mistake) Anyone hear ever done the swap and can simplify the b15 conector wiring for dumb me ? The thing that baffles me is he is using 4 wires from the b15 to I assume the clutch pedal that only has 2 wires And a jumper also on the b15.

Since that is my swap write up, I'll try and explain things more clearly.

I think you are getting things a little confused as to what is doing what. There are three separate functions related to the swap that I talk about. The first is the reverse lights, second is the neutral switch, and third is the starter interlock circuit. These are all independent of each other and have their own wiring that needs to be addressed. A common misconception everyone has is that the neutral switch is what determines whether the car can start in gear or with the clutch in, and that is incorrect.

Pins 11 & 12 of the B15 connector are what need to be addressed to allow the car to start. This wiring is related to the starter interlock circuit. In my write-up I talk about adding a relay and tieing that to the clutch switch. This is how the factory has things setup. However, to get the car to start after the swap, all you need to do is jumper pins 11 & 12 of the B15 connector together. That is all you need to do. This will allow you to start the car without depressing the clutch in. So if you're struggling with the wiring, this might be a good approach to help simplify things. Connect pins 11 & 12 together and the car should start without any issues.

The reverse lights and neutral switch wiring is separate and you should be abke ti follow the specifics on my write-up

Reverse Lights: I wired pins 9 and 10 from the automatic's harness to pins 2 and 4 of the MT's B15 connector

Neutral switch: I connected pins 1 and 4 of the B15 AT connector to pins 1 and 3 of the B15 MT connector

The only additional thing you need to do for the neutral switch is cut the wire at pin 18 of the B36 connector that came from the combination meter so the neutral light in the dash isn't illuminated.

I don't think the neutral switch would cause the boost issues you have. Did you remove the TCU and snip the MT/AT pin at the ECU to tell the ECU it is now a MT?

Thanks josh. I was hoping I got the write up from here but couldn't remember where I had found it. Very specific and detailed. Iv followed it all. the tcu is deleted and Iv sniped pin 18 on b36. The real thing that was confusing me is I don't have the 4wire manual trans harness yet and I think your right I'm looking at that not realizing the Reverse lights being part of that. I over complicated it in my head thinking that I had somthing wrong because if the boost cut. Iv had 9 good boost pulls of 10 psi on the car but this is all with no clutch switch as soon as I added that I lost boost. It would run and sound prime but as soon as I Would hit boost not even 2psi it would dump it and cause the car to buck and hop. I thought mayby this is from the car thinking its in N and not being under load when it is. I'm going to double check everything including the body harness tomorrow and try another boost control I have maybe that's bad.

Yeah, I don't think the neautral switch would cause your problems. Double check the wiring and let us know what you find out.