Lets talk Suspension upgrades for a 1990 BC Leggy

[Plazma]

I recently discovered that the lower control arm bushings are not doing their job. I'm at a point where I can begin to upgrade and I'm excited to do so. NVH is not an issue for me, or well I should say I'm willing to tolerate a fair amount of NVH in the upgrades I want to do. Hunker in I hope this is indepth enough.

My goals (in no real order) are:

• 1) Adjustable Struts/Lowering springs (Coilovers later on down the road at some point are my ultimate goal.)
  2) Stiffer, and thicker sway bars front and back. (Is 25mm too much to ask?)
  4) Stiffer bushings front to back
  5) Anti Lift kit
  4) Subframe lock bolts
  7) Lateral and Trailing Links
  Under carriage bracing (is this even an option for BC owners?)

I'm not sure if I've left anything out please let me know if I have. Now here's what I've plucked from the collective knowledge here at Legacy Central from the suspension compendium:

On the Struts/Springs and later coil overs: Now I know that the 90-91 MY Leggys have tapered springs. If I want to upgrade to adjustable struts (AGX's) I know from Josh's work they have AGX struts for the 92-94 Legacy but those springs aren't tapered, I would need to find the strut assembly for a 92-94 legacy that seems like a lot of effort.

My other option would be to pick up F/R perch and a washer between the rear top nut and top mount of a 2002+ Impreza (V/N: GD). This would allow me to run springs made for the the 04-07 WRX springs/struts (I was looking at Cobb Tuning just because their shop is close to me, and I've already got their shifter bushings on my transmission.

Now if I change the suspension mounting parts to the 2002+ Impreza in order to fit adjustable struts, does this mean when I eventually move up to Coilovers will I then be shopping for 2002+ Impreza struts? Is it actually worth making the effort to put in adjustable struts and lowering springs or am I better off just saving for coilovers? Is it even possible to get coilovers on to a BC Leggy?

On sway bars and stiffening So after looking at Jamal's extensive work on Swaybars, I know that finding 25mm sway bars for a 1990MY that's N/A is going to be difficult if not impossible I think (I don't want to try the Tribeca 25mm sway bar road). This sorta limits me to buying Whiteline products I have no previous experience with them but given a lot of people here use and or mention them I see no reason not to trust the brand.

From what I saw in Jamal's work was that an 02-07 RS/TS/i Imprezas have a 20mm bar that will fit the front of an N/A Legacy. Wouldn't this not be possible since it would seem that the 02-07s used a wider track than the BC Legacy? Or was a different antiroll bar used for the Impreza WRX?

Also I know that stronger front sway bars can increase understeer if the rear sway bar is over powered (or at least this is how I've explained it in my head to myself). Does this then mean if I switch only the front antiroll first that I'll actually introduce more understeer under cornering than if I were to upgrade the rear first then the front, or if I did them both at the same time? Also should I be looking to go with a smaller diameter front antiroll bar than rear or should install a matched set? If I have a smaller front roll bar than rear bar, the car will be prone to oversteer and vice versa is that correct?

Front to Back Bushings I've been reading a lot about bushings, what I've gathered is that STI Bushings are hardened but there's still firmer out there (Whiteline Black bushings for example) Group N are even stiffer than the STi. One of the threads here suggested that the progression would be Stock -> STi -> Whiteline Comfort -> Group N ->Whiteline Sport -> White line Racing (black). NVH is not a big concern as I said. So the real question then is what's the difference between Sport and Racing? What are the advantages going either way?

Anti Lift kit is pretty self explanatory and is something I want to change in the first round of suspension upgrades when I do my control arm bushings.

Subframe Lock Bolts Is this a mod worth investing in? I'm not even sure how to actually adjust this as I know it aligns the body onto the subframe and keeps the body from moving on a horizontal plane. How detrimental to handling is this body shift enough so that I should install the lock bolts? Or is it one of those things that from comfort to racing suspension it's worth the upgrade?

Lateral Links and Trailing Links Do I really need all this Toe/Caster/Camber adjustability? I see the adjustable lateral links, but what about the trailing arm? It seems like it would help cut down weight transfer do they make beefier ones to install?

Lets take this one step further Undercarriage bracing; I see it for the new model WRX/STI has anyone experimented with this on the BC/BF legacy? Is this purely a custom one off upgrade or can I pull this off using one of the more modern Subaru under carriages?

My final issue with all this is the order of things? I won't be taking this on all at once, I'll be doing it in stages. Is there a good order to tackle this in? My thoughts were to go front to back but perhaps someone has better suggestion for an upgrade order?

[MConte05]

First question you need to ask yourself is what are you trying to achieve. Are you going racing? Are you going racing for money?

I am a firm believer that you don't need elevenitybillion adjustments for a street setup. New set of GOOD dampers and springs(FEAL Revalved 04 STI struts for example) plus some STI springs would do great for the legacy. No need for adjustable suspension. On cheap stuff its shit anyways.

Then do your bushings, you will hate race bushings VERY quickly. Just go with Group N or the Sport ones. Bushings will be the biggest difference after proper dampers/springs.

I personally wouldn't bother with a swaybar. On my race car (granted it is a rally car) I don't even run swaybars.

But most importantly. MOST IMPORTANTLY. What tires are you running? All of this suspension tuning doesn't mean shit unless you have decent tires.

[Legacy777]

I would agree with the above comments. I've more or less replaced all my bushings with STi hardened bushings or poly bushings and there is a noticable increase in NVH, but it is tolerable. The split poly bushings are FAR easier to install and honestly that's what I'd probably recommend.

Good springs and struts will make a world of difference. Depending on the spring & strut setup you can fine tune the handling by upgrading the anti-sway bars. I wouldn't go quite as large as some folks do because an anti-sway bar is essentially an undamped spring. I think I've got a 20 mm up front and adjustable 18-22 in the rear. I run the rear in the 18 mm position.

I'm pretty happy with my suspension setup....my only complaint is as I get older I don't care for the jarring ride that the lowered suspension and stiffer struts provide over Houston's crappy roads. I haven't really investigated what's out there, but if I could find something that was a little less harsh, but wouldn't sacrifice my current ride height or too much handling performance I'd probably bite.

Regarding tires, I've had tires that inspire confidence and then I've had tires that don't, so yeah make sure you do some homework on the tires.

[Plazma]

I should have been a little clearer in what I was going for sorry about that. So here's the thing. I'm new to this and I want to learn how to do some track driving. My sister's boyfriend drives a BMW and takes it out to the tracks like Laguna Seca (most recently). I want a car that I can legally drive in the street (I know that suspension has little to do with that). I want the suspension stiff and responsive enough that in a daily driving emergency between my skill and the car's ability I will have no problems. On the track end, I'd like as little understeer as possible but I want the oversteer to be something that I can handle as a novice. I plan to take a driving course or two in that vein. Eventually I want to turn this into some kind of track/project car as I'm close to being in that salary range where I can afford one expensive toy and this is it. Once the suspension is dialed in I'll begin the real engine work but in the mean time a feasible bolt on engine piece here and there isn't out of the question either. Eventually I'd like to get into small rally events but that's much further down the road. I believe Autocross is a good place to start.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I did have a few other questions for you now after all that.

First question you need to ask yourself is what are you trying to achieve. Are you going racing? Are you going racing for money?

Racing for money sounds scary as I'm new to the world of driving anything other than a stock vehicle.

I am a firm believer that you don't need elevenitybillion adjustments for a street setup. New set of GOOD dampers and springs(FEAL Revalved 04 STI struts for example) plus some STI springs would do great for the legacy. No need for adjustable suspension. On cheap stuff its shit anyways.

As I mentioned before I am new to all this. What do you mean by "cheap stuff" as in cheap components or bargain upgrades? I don't know many brands out there I've been looking mainly at Whiteline simply because they make upgrades for the BC as direct fit. Are there other brands that I could be considering?

Then do your bushings, you will hate race bushings VERY quickly. Just go with Group N or the Sport ones. Bushings will be the biggest difference after proper dampers/springs.

Actually the bushings are kind of a necessity right now, the lower control arm bushings are shot and need to be replaced sooner rather than later. As I said I'm not concerned with NVH in the vehicle. So if you hate them because of the NVH I feel like that's purely subjective. Now what in your mind are the disadvantages of running Race bushings as opposed to Sport (which is the least amount of stiffness in the bushings I'm willing to accept).

I personally wouldn't bother with a swaybar. On my race car (granted it is a rally car) I don't even run swaybars.

But why wouldn't I want sway bars? I was under the impression that they help to reduce understeer in cornering. I mean to me it just makes sense to have them on. Is there something I'm missing about that? they seem like a popular upgrade in many vehicles.

But most importantly. MOST IMPORTANTLY. What tires are you running? All of this suspension tuning doesn't mean shit unless you have decent tires.

Wow, thanks for bringing tyres into the discussion, I had only briefly considered them and really the thought was that I might need to just run a more low-profile tyre than what I had on there. Is running stock tyres for a little while going to negate all the other upgrades? What should I be looking for in a tyre?

[Legacy777]

Based on your last post and your experience....I'd very highly recommend on first improving your driving skills. Get a second car either as your practice car or as your daily driver. You don't want to race or learn on your daily driver. If you crash or total it, you're screwed. My suggestion is get something inexpensive to drive on the track and improve your driving skills. Replace the components on your Legacy that need to be replaced. Things like bushings go for the sport or middle option. You want something better than stock, but you don't need a race setup. You think may be ok with added NVH, however after a while it gets old. Not to mention the rough ride.

[Plazma]

I would agree with the above comments. I've more or less replaced all my bushings with STi hardened bushings or poly bushings and there is a noticable increase in NVH, but it is tolerable. The split poly bushings are FAR easier to install and honestly that's what I'd probably recommend.

So now that the bushings thing is mostly resolved, I'm left to decide between using GroupN all the way around, or to buy items from the Whiteline Sport series.

Good springs and struts will make a world of difference. Depending on the spring & strut setup you can fine tune the handling by upgrading the anti-sway bars. I wouldn't go quite as large as some folks do because an anti-sway bar is essentially an undamped spring. I think I've got a 20 mm up front and adjustable 18-22 in the rear. I run the rear in the 18 mm position.

Ok, so my plan was to use AGX struts because of the adjustability in their dampening characteristics. Is my logic regarding what I need to change the suspension on my Legacy on point? I know I need to change the F/R pearches (I'm assuming these are spring seats by another name) and the other small components).

As for the sway bars. It seems Whiteline would be my best bet because of all the fit restrictions. Correct me if I'm wrong, but to eliminate understeer I want the rear to be overloaded before the front so would I run a larger swaybar in front and smaller one in the rear? Similar to your's with an 18/20 or around that neighborhood.

I'm pretty happy with my suspension setup....my only complaint is as I get older I don't care for the jarring ride that the lowered suspension and stiffer struts provide over Houston's crappy roads. I haven't really investigated what's out there, but if I could find something that was a little less harsh, but wouldn't sacrifice my current ride height or too much handling performance I'd probably bite.

I don't know anything about Houston roads but I do know that for the most part with the exception of a few patches here and there, Southern California has pretty damn good roads and highways.

Regarding tires, I've had tires that inspire confidence and then I've had tires that don't, so yeah make sure you do some homework on the tires.

Can you point me in the right direction with any advice on this? I know more rubber on the road = more grip in the turns.

Based on your last post and your experience....I'd very highly recommend on first improving your driving skills. Get a second car either as your practice car or as your daily driver. You don't want to race or learn on your daily driver. If you crash or total it, you're screwed. My suggestion is get something inexpensive to drive on the track and improve your driving skills. Replace the components on your Legacy that need to be replaced. Things like bushings go for the sport or middle option. You want something better than stock, but you don't need a race setup. You think may be ok with added NVH, however after a while it gets old. Not to mention the rough ride.

So which of the mods that I have listed would be considered "Part of a race setup"? Are ALKs and Swaybars part of a 'race setup' or are they upgrades worth getting in general? I would prefer to add sway bars since in all honesty to me it just sounds like a worthwhile upgrade for both regular and hard driving situations.

[James614]

My one suggestion would be to stay with symmetrical tread if you're new to this, and go for a better deal over Max grip. You will wear them out fast on a track (even faster if you're a rookie), and being able to swap them between all 4 corners on site to keep wear even is a godsend.

[MConte05]

Go for the split type bushings, that will make your life much easier.

People have this notion that all Subaru's understeer like crazy, I reckon that it is more because people don't understand how to truly drive an AWD sedan quickly. They bomb into the corner too hot and punch the gas, and then wonder why their front tires are overloaded and push... It happens in EVERY car when you do that. I've had Porsche's, I own a Lotus Elise, I've driven a LOT of cars very fast and they will ALL push if you drive them incorrectly. Then people start doing things like bigger swaybars or stiffer springs or grippier tires all in the name of "eliminating understeer" when in reality it is their inferior driving style that is causing the car to push.

Get new bushings, since it sounds like you need that. Then get a SIMPLE strut/spring setup, no adjustability needed at all. Feal's Revalve service is a dyno proven setup that works great.

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/brakes-susp ... clunk.html

Some decent summer tires (cheap) will get you rolling. Don't believe that you NEED the softest grippiest tires out there to roll daily or at the autoX course. If you are as new to performance driving as you say you are, it will take at least 2-3 years before the tires are really, honestly, holding you back.

And don't worry about swaybars, I wouldn't even touch the front swaybar, if in the future you reallyyyyyyy want quicker transitions, then maybe a little bigger rear. Have to understand that what the swaybar does it limit the suspension travel, and all it does is act like a stiffer spring.

I'm sorry if I am coming off like a condescending dick. I am really glad that you are asking the right questions, It's just that I see the information you are gathering is from lots of forum reading, and when it comes to performance driving.... it's usually a bunch of crap. It's kids who are going round at the AutoX course, setting shitty times against other crappy drivers and then wasting thousands and THOUSANDS of dollars on unnecessary upgrades. As mentioned above, the driver mod is 100% the most important thing. Once you really, and I mean REALLY learn how to drive fast, you can jump in any car, with any setup, and drive quickly. What I see a lot of people doing is trying to mod the car to fit their crappy driving style, and it just makes for a terrible vehicle all around while only producing mediocre results. I just don't want to see you falling into the same trick.

[Legacy777]

I would agree about the adjustable strut setup.....you don't need it. I think the ONLY adjustment I've made from the middle setting on my AGX's was to soften the front up one click because I hated getting beat to crap.

MConte05 has some very good advice....keep in mind he does race, so he's not blowing smoke.

Do the bushings, and yes I agree split poly will make things soo much easier. Get springs & struts and then just drive the car to learn and practice getting better.

[Plazma]

So with the split type bushing what makes life easier? Just the installment portion of not having to press stuff in or is there another reason to it? I have all the tools I need to get this done and I've also got access to a mechanic and shop.

Now as far as bushings go, for fitment whiteline I see makes 1990 BC legacy components regularly. If I were looking to use Group N or STi bushings where would I begin to look for finding the right fit to a 90-91MY BC Legacy? Would I want the 02-07 or the 93-01MY or perhaps a more specific model?

Also I agree with a lot of the advice and you've definitely changed my mind on some things. I'm still not entirely convinced about the sway bar. I still really want to install them. But lets talk a little more about struts and springs.

So I know that the 90-91MY Leggys had the tapered springs. Was my original train of thought correct? In my head it seems better to upgrade the suspension components to the 04-07 model of suspension as it seems like I have a wider range of options with the suspension for the newer models. Is this correct? If that is correct then I would need to match spring seats etc. before proceeding but once I got all those components squared away it would just be a direct bolt up yes?

[Plazma]

So I ended up making a purchase today, obviously the bushings because they needed to be addressed immediately. I only addressed the control arm bushings as it gives me time to better plan out what other upgrades I decide to do.

I went with a complete ALK/bushing kit. It seems the pushings come already pressed in with the ALK kit so why not save myself some time and just buy the kit instead of having to press them in myself.
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_det ... er=KCA319A


Here's where I had some trouble. Whiteline doesn't make a bushing specifically labeled as a Front Control Arm - lower inner front bushing for a 1990 Legacy BC Sedan. So I had to use my head. Now from what I read elsewhere in the suspension folder, a GC Impreza control arm is a direct bolt on for ours. So since there wasn't one specifically for a BC leggy, I ordered the lower inner front bushing that would fit into a GC impreza, and what came up was

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_det ... er=W51709A


I feel like this were a good purchase and a step in the right direction. My only concern now is obviously the front bushing I'm really hoping I made the right decision for fit.

[Plazma]

A thought just occurred to me. Now the general consensus would appear to be that I don't need adjustable high end suspension because my driving skill would be considered novice in the extreme. Would there be anything wrong with spending my money on adjustable suspension and leaving it at the stock suspension recommendations per the FSM. That way as I learn how to drive the car better and better I'm already set up to begin tuning the suspension for something a little more aggressive? It makes sense to me as really the only place I see this progressing is further and further. Though of course that sort of upgrade wouldn't have to come right away.

[Legacy777]

So with the split type bushing what makes life easier? Just the installment portion of not having to press stuff in or is there another reason to it? I have all the tools I need to get this done and I've also got access to a mechanic and shop.

Yes it makes installation MUCH easier. Trust me, even with all the tools you think you need the hardened rubber bushings are a huge pain to install.

Now as far as bushings go, for fitment whiteline I see makes 1990 BC legacy components regularly. If I were looking to use Group N or STi bushings where would I begin to look for finding the right fit to a 90-91MY BC Legacy? Would I want the 02-07 or the 93-01MY or perhaps a more specific model?

Most of all the suspension bushings for the 93-01 Impreza will fit the first gen legacies.

Also I agree with a lot of the advice and you've definitely changed my mind on some things. I'm still not entirely convinced about the sway bar. I still really want to install them. But lets talk a little more about struts and springs.

Do the springs and struts first and see how the car drives. If the car feels like it has a little bit too much body roll you could look at upgrading the bars. Whatever you do, try and only do one modification at a time. If you do a bunch of stuff you really won't know what made the biggest improvement.

So I know that the 90-91MY Leggys had the tapered springs. Was my original train of thought correct? In my head it seems better to upgrade the suspension components to the 04-07 model of suspension as it seems like I have a wider range of options with the suspension for the newer models. Is this correct? If that is correct then I would need to match spring seats etc. before proceeding but once I got all those components squared away it would just be a direct bolt up yes?

I'll let someone else comment on this since I'm not as knowledgable on all the different strut/spring combos.

[Legacy777]

Here's where I had some trouble. Whiteline doesn't make a bushing specifically labeled as a Front Control Arm - lower inner front bushing for a 1990 Legacy BC Sedan. So I had to use my head. Now from what I read elsewhere in the suspension folder, a GC Impreza control arm is a direct bolt on for ours. So since there wasn't one specifically for a BC leggy, I ordered the lower inner front bushing that would fit into a GC impreza, and what came up was

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_det ... er=W51709A


I feel like this were a good purchase and a step in the right direction. My only concern now is obviously the front bushing I'm really hoping I made the right decision for fit.

Those should be the correct ones.

[Legacy777]

A thought just occurred to me. Now the general consensus would appear to be that I don't need adjustable high end suspension because my driving skill would be considered novice in the extreme. Would there be anything wrong with spending my money on adjustable suspension and leaving it at the stock suspension recommendations per the FSM. That way as I learn how to drive the car better and better I'm already set up to begin tuning the suspension for something a little more aggressive? It makes sense to me as really the only place I see this progressing is further and further. Though of course that sort of upgrade wouldn't have to come right away.

What adjustable suspension components are you interested in?

There is nothing wrong with an adjustable suspension, nor is there anything wrong a standard non-adjustable suspension. However, setting up an adjustable suspension properly takes a bit more skill. If you just get adjustable struts, that's not really a big deal. However, full coilovers with adjustable damping and rebound can take a tad more time and skill.

[Plazma]

A thought just occurred to me. Now the general consensus would appear to be that I don't need adjustable high end suspension because my driving skill would be considered novice in the extreme. Would there be anything wrong with spending my money on adjustable suspension and leaving it at the stock suspension recommendations per the FSM. That way as I learn how to drive the car better and better I'm already set up to begin tuning the suspension for something a little more aggressive? It makes sense to me as really the only place I see this progressing is further and further. Though of course that sort of upgrade wouldn't have to come right away.

What adjustable suspension components are you interested in?

There is nothing wrong with an adjustable suspension, nor is there anything wrong a standard non-adjustable suspension. However, setting up an adjustable suspension properly takes a bit more skill. If you just get adjustable struts, that's not really a big deal. However, full coilovers with adjustable damping and rebound can take a tad more time and skill.

I was looking at doing the more expensive coil overs if I can get a set that fits along with lateral links. This is primarily because I want to do the work. But then when I get the alignment done after installing everything instead of adjusting camber and all that I'll just have them return to the stock adjustments. Then as I gain more and more experience instead of having to install the components. They're already there and as I learn how to drive and how adjustments to suspension affect handling of the car I don't have to do all the work. I can just start learning.

But obviously starting off with a stock suspension tuning makes the most sense to me with the exception of ride height of course.

[MConte05]

So here's another question... How much are you looking to spend on all of this? Because if you are looking at expensive coilovers, full bushing kits, new tires, new links, etc. that is a big chunk of cash.

If you are really focused on becoming a better driver, I'd just spend that money on a track-rat miata for $3-5k.

[Plazma]

So here's another question... How much are you looking to spend on all of this? Because if you are looking at expensive coilovers, full bushing kits, new tires, new links, etc. that is a big chunk of cash.

If you are really focused on becoming a better driver, I'd just spend that money on a track-rat miata for $3-5k.

Well fortunately I'm close to landing a job that will allow me to throw chunks of cash at one particular hobby. My computer is nicely setup right now. So this has become my expensive hobby. Part of what I have going for me is that I don't feel the need to drop thousands all at once here. I'm happy to develop a planned build journal and from what I read and information I gather from here do bits of upgrades at a time. So for example I already did the transmission swap from 4EAT to 5MT. This is all regarding the suspension, eventually I'd like to look at the engine I currently have a EJ22 N/A so I'm more than happy to figure out how to change that etc. etc. I would say that about 85-95% of the work is going to be done on my own or with one other person.

First and foremost yes I'd like to become a better driver, but I don't want to spend 3-5k on a car that I'll inevitably want to upgrade when I could easily use that 3-5k perhaps push this BC a little further than it was intended. Obviously I'm aware of the limitations with drivability and NVH but I'm also aware of what I can tolerate. Maybe if I find myself in such a position I can by myself a cheap daily driver and build up this Legacy.

That's my thoughts on this. Tell me what you think I'd appreciate it

[LegacyW90]

Any suspension from 02-07 wax will fit and 04 STI and so coilovers are an option but like legacy777 and mconte are saying it is tricky to truly setup your coilovers properly where as most people unknowingly do a few twists here and a few twists here and never get the setup correct enough to make a positive gain. I currently have 04 wrx kyb agx struts with Megan racing springs sitting on 02 wrx wheels. I'm going to move to coilovers as soon as I get the money because my ride quality is shit on account of the front struts being blown but that's not important. I'm also planning on doing sway bars and undercarriage bracing and I'm not positive but what I've heard is that 02-07 wrx/STI bracing works but I'm not sure since I haven't tried it myself.

[Plazma]

Any suspension from 02-07 wax will fit and 04 STI and so coilovers are an option but like legacy777 and mconte are saying it is tricky to truly setup your coilovers properly where as most people unknowingly do a few twists here and a few twists here and never get the setup correct enough to make a positive gain. I currently have 04 wrx kyb agx struts with Megan racing springs sitting on 02 wrx wheels. I'm going to move to coilovers as soon as I get the money because my ride quality is shit on account of the front struts being blown but that's not important. I'm also planning on doing sway bars and undercarriage bracing and I'm not positive but what I've heard is that 02-07 wrx/STI bracing works but I'm not sure since I haven't tried it myself.

Oh I get what they're saying but what I'm asking is would it be unreasonable to get said adjustable suspension and then set it to stock values for Camber, toe, etc. Just so that way when I finally do get to a point where I feel comfortable tuning suspension for something different, I don't have to worry about installing it because it's already on there. Plus I figure even if I don't use all the adjustability I still get tighter bushings better materials in the end?

[MConte05]

I don't think it's reasonable.

By the time you are good enough at driving to feel like you need to start fine tuning the suspension, you'll be wanting to sell the car and move onto something that is actually designed from the ground up to be a sportscar. I sold my old WRX to move onto an Audi, then to a hyundai, then got an older porsche boxster, then sold that to get a Lotus Elise which is my current car. The legacy has been a pure rally car that I can beat the ever living hell out of on the stages and not worry about a thing. But can it handle as good as a stock Boxster or Lotus? Never. Ever. Will.

[Plazma]

I don't think it's reasonable.

By the time you are good enough at driving to feel like you need to start fine tuning the suspension, you'll be wanting to sell the car and move onto something that is actually designed from the ground up to be a sportscar. I sold my old WRX to move onto an Audi, then to a hyundai, then got an older porsche boxster, then sold that to get a Lotus Elise which is my current car. The legacy has been a pure rally car that I can beat the ever living hell out of on the stages and not worry about a thing. But can it handle as good as a stock Boxster or Lotus? Never. Ever. Will.

Thanks for that, great advice. I guess this brings us full circle then, what do you believe are some reasonable modifications past stock that are worth while for a daily driver that will make bashing around a track a little more fun on the weekends?

Initially I had settled on Struts/Springs, Poly Bushings all the way around, Sway bars and links (still on the fence about this one), and a good set of tires wheels. Is this unreasonable for what I'm looking to do?

[MConte05]

A good strut/spring combo, updated bushings and a good tire/wheel combo is perfect for a daily driven car that sees some thrashing. And like I said, maybe a slightly larger rear sway bar if you are really feeling it.

What I might suggest, is go out and test drive some used Boxsters, Z4's, Miata's, etc. and learn what a proper sportscar feels like. Just go to a dealer, pretend that you are interested in buying. They shouldn't turn you away from test driving a $15-20k car. The difference between driving a few of those cars, and then jumping into a boat like Subaru's is night and day. There's a reason my Legacy sees rally only.

However! I do think the Legacy is a fantastic starter car for learning high performance driving. The reason is the longer wheelbase is much more stable at high speeds. At an Autocross it'll hinder you, but on a fast real world track it will give you more confidence at speed.

[Plazma]

Alright lets start with bushings then since I'm already replacing some pretty soon here.

This round I'll be taking care of the front control arm bushings. So that leaves the rest of the bushings, struts and springs (I don't mind doing them separately). As well as the sway bar, new wheels and rubber. Also what about not necessarily adjustable components but what about heavy duty components like thicker trailing arms etc.?

With the front bushings fixed (the only thing that needed dire attention) where do I go from here? I've got enough to either give springs/struts a serious look, or finish all the bushings front to back.

[MConte05]

In order from what I think makes the biggest difference to the least difference. All still help though.

-Group N Transmission mount (http://turninconcepts.com/driveline/gro ... mount.html)
-TIC Trans Crossmember Bushings (http://turninconcepts.com/driveline/tic ... hings.html)
-Group N motor mounts (http://turninconcepts.com/driveline/gro ... t-set.html)
- Whiteline Steering Bushings (http://turninconcepts.com/suspension/st ... shing.html)
- Unabomber Sexy Rear End (http://turninconcepts.com/driveline/una ... arend.html)

The rear end kit will take some research to see if it will fit for the Legacy, the diff bushing might be different.

I personally have never had upgraded bushings on my rear links, and never saw them as a big need. The transmission mount plus the trans bushings will make your shifting so much more enjoyable. If you aren't already upgrading the shifter with new bushings or a short throw, start there. It is your main interface to the vehicle. That's also why I think upgraded engine mounts, trans mounts, steering bushings, and other driveline things are more important that suspension right off the bat. It is the interface, the better you can feel the car react to your inputs (steering, gas, brake, etc.) then the more comfortable you'll feel pushing it.