legacycentral bbs

so about 4 months ago my timing belt broke.. it sheered off all the teeth.. after trying to start it for some time i figured out it was the belt.. took it off and cleaned everything and found that the tension-er pulley bolt was slightly stripped out.. got longer bolt and chased the threads with a tap.. put it all back together and all looked well.

when i started it up it was missing and then it died.. now it will only start if i hold my foot to the floor and then it runs really rough.. no vac or boost on my gauge and no throttle response, but will rev up eventually. once it worms up it dies completely.. always seems like its missing on a cylinder.. codes are purge valve and knock sensor, but it ran great with those codes since i bought it over a yr ago...

the only other thing i have done is pulled the ecu fuse over night... nothing changed.. please help...
im about to just rebuild it

id just say double check and make sure the cam and crank gear are all lined up properly and is in correct timing.

Gotta be off a tooth or two somewhere.

I would recheck the tbelt and cam/crank sensors for damage

Definitely sounds like it's still off and not properly aligned


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There's only one proper way to do a timing job on these motors and that is to count the teeth...multiple times. Search and you'll find the numbers. Also, probably need a new timing belt tensioner.

well i have thought about a now tensioner cause when i checked it was half a tooth off.. would that do it? i always let the belt rest after putting it on and spin it by hand to check before i start it up...

I also wonder about my injectors.. i can smell gas like its running really rich

It can't be half a tooth off. Did you find the correct numbers for your engine and count the teeth all the way around from each point to the next to see that the cams and crank are where they need to be? Sounds like what you're saying is the marks on the inner cam covers are not lining up perfectly and that's fine. Usually the left side of the engine is off a bit but the tensioner should take care of that wuen the engine is running but what is important is that the correct number of teeth on the belt are between each pulley. And if your tensioner is shot it can get a touch out of alignment.

There are tick marks on the cam pulleys and a tick mark on the crank pulley....but not the arrow, that is TDC cylinder #1. If you align all the ticks with the marks on the new timing belt, you should be fine. You can count the teeth as a control process, but I have never done it that way.

im going to have to count teeth because the belt i bought from napa has no timing lines or marks. does anyone know the number.. im having trouble finding it on google

I believe there is a picture of all the teeth in the FSM. There are links on here to the PDF files.

there are some pretty good youtube videos you can watch that will help alot, thats how i learned how to do mine.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _belt1.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _belt2.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _belt3.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _belt4.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _belt5.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _belt6.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _belt7.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _belt8.jpg

so today i finally got to work on my car.. i started with a compression test and found that i was off a tooth on the pass side.. was only getting 110psi... after redoing the belt i did another compression test and had 145psi to 150psi on all cylinders..

after putting everything back together i started it.. it started but still was running rough, not as bad as befor but not right..
then i hooked up a vacuum gauge in place of my boost gauge( i run my boost gauge off the BOV line). i found that it is not holding solid vacuum and i must have leak... i sprayed everything with starting fluid while it was running and didnt get any response, normally the engine revs when you hit the leak.

Any thought on how i can find a vacuum leak?

What was your vacuum reading and what was the engine rpm?

Another way to check for an intake manifold leak is to pressure test the intake. Some folks have used a PVC cap with fittings so you can pressure up the system and look for leaks.

well the gauge was steady at 0 when the throttle was open.. that is normal, and the engine would smooth out and sound great..

when it goes back to idle, the gauge started jumping from negative 18 to about positive 5.. i did notice that it sounds like it goes down a cylinder at idle.. when i rev it up it has no real throttle response and it takes a couple seconds to catch up.. once it does it sounds great..

what are the units of 18 & 5, in-Hg and psi or just in-Hg?

psi i think.. it was way more hg then that if i remember correctly

would a crap bov do this?

Yes your blow off valve could be leaking. Some need to be calibrated.

im still running the stock plastic hard pipe and stock bov.... im thinking i might put the top mount on and reseal the intake and injectors.. since i still have 150psi on all 4 cylinders.

You're referring to the little black bypass valve or bpv. Not a bov which is a blow off valve. A bov is exhaled to atmosphere. A leaking bpv should not cause a vacuum leak.

If the diaphragm is leaking it could cause a vacuum leak couldn't it?

No it would be leaking back into the intake pre turbo. No change in metered air either.