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so i just bought my first proper turbo Subaru its got a few things done to it and overall in amazing shape it used to be a user on heres car mathew0444 i believe anyways hears what its doing it runs like crap sometimes one i start it in the morning it gets extremely bad gas mileage (220 miles to a tank) it also has trouble running right under full boost(8-9 psi??) i really like this car and am fully capable of fixing any and everything just need a few helpful hints this things a lot different than a Honda heirs a few pics of the car and the video of me reading the codes stored in the ecu o also a short list of whats done to it that i can see its got a 06 wrx tmic/glow shift boost gauge/ td04 turbo/ a 3 inch turbo back exhaust/ around 202k miles/ a walbro 255/and i believe stock injectors(don't know how to tell)

Also iv already read though this post a few times I'm just not getting it http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm

Here is my shot at the viddo
llsss 23 air flow sensor
llssss 24 air control valve
llllssss 44 duty solenoid wastegate control

Have you disconnected battery to clear codes? If not do so and drive the car, then upload another video if you cant figure out.

Long blinking is =1 (so 2 solid long blinks would be 2)
Short or quick blinks -1 (4 quick blinks would be 4)
total being code 24

you have codes 22, 23, 24, 35, 44, and 49

Sometimes when you have a substantial list of codes like this, you may need to clean a plug somewhere at the engine harness or at the loom under the dash. That's a broad spectrum of codes bud.

Here's a breakdown of the codes stored on your car.

22, Knock Sensor. Honestly this sensor going bad can result in other codes coming up as well. Replace it and reset codes and see what you still have.

23, Airflow Sensor. Abnormal voltage read, Clean the sensor with MAF Sensor cleaner. It can be bought at Schucks or Autozone. Reset the ecu and check codes after.

24, Air Control Valve. I'm a little hazy on this one, but I'm guessing it's the Pressure Exchange Solenoid. It's the brown sensor above the MAP and BCS on the passenger strut tower. It may be bad, are you hitting fuel cut? If so you may need to replace this sensor. I have one for sale if you need it, 40 shipped.

35,Purge Control Solenoid. Ignore it, or not. If you replace it you can grab one from an N/A, it's what controls the charcoalcanister. you need to atleast have it plugged in to remove the CEL. It does not effect the ecu or change how the car runs if it's not present.

44, Wastegate solenoid. Wastegate solenoid controls boost, Maybe it's fried. I also have one of those for sale. 40 shipped.

49, Airflow Sensor. Use of Improper Mass Air Flow Sensor (often mis understood by ecu.) Probably need to just be cleaned. May relate to Code 23.

Also code 24, and possibly 44, can come up if you have raised the boost. If you have raised the boost and have a fuel cut defender installed then the FCD may have blown. Unfortunately that is common as well. I've personally went thru 3 fuel cut defenders.

If you seed one of those as well, I have one for sale for 50 shipped. freshly built and I ran it for 2 months already.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

there's the list of codes.

YESS finally some reply's alright so first the car seems to be running stock boost(don't see an after market boost controller anywhere) it does have a td04 so im not sure if that would affect anything also it doesn't always have a CEL its a once and a while one i start it in the morning thing second its running SUPER RICH(terrible gas mileage) and stumbles on acceleration every now and again 3 i have unplugged the battery to reset the ecu with some success i did pressure spray the engine bay a few weeks ago to clean it so i will blow ALL the plugs out first it runs great one its holding boost and the weathers decent not much top end power at all tho so iv just been cruising one it rains the car runs like crap wont build boost and violently stumbles also

That's good mpg . I'm only getting 170 a tank

no way my moms 94 auto SS got like 300+ to a tank it was bone stock tho

Alright guys ill upload another video of a reset battery cold start to you can see what its doing

As others have said, reset the ECU either with the battery method or using both the green & black connectors, and then let us know what codes come back.

I'd also suggest doing the active diagnostic mode (d-check) with just the green connectors to see what it gets.

thanks for the help guys iv got most of the issues sorted out a little maff cleaner did the trick and i reset the ecu and the other codes went away and haven't came back really appreciate the advice!!!!!!!!

Glad to hear you got it fixed.