legacycentral bbs

1992 Ej22t

I have been replacing the automatic transmission and a bunch of other things like the timing belt and water pump in my car for the past couple weeks and we finally got it running, but when you try get on it it starts to cut out. When it's idling and I rev it, it is just fine and doesn't cut out it only cuts out when I'm driving it.

I thought maybe it might have to do with the timing belt or some kind of vacuum leak or boost issue, but I am pretty new to subarus and cars in general as this is my first one so Im not really sure what it is exactly.

the engine codes its giving me are 22 42 51 52

There also a tranny code that needs to be read. Guessing it's something to do wth codes 51 and 52. Gonna fix the shady knock sensor wire tomorrow and see if it helps


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Let us know if the knock sensor helps.

Can you please elaborate the problem and exactly what it does.

Are you doing a transmission swap or just replacing the automatic trans?


Any additional information you can provide on the exact setup will be helpful.

just swapping the auto trans right now. I switched the knock sensor today with my friends old one but its still giving me codes 42 51 and 52 and additionally 12 now so I'm guessing that knock sensor was bad too. It still cuts out almost like a fuel cut or something like that when i press on the gas even a little bit. Im gonna have to go grab a different knock sensor for the junkyard and see if that helps at all

also we are having problems with the trans lining up properly like it says its in park but its actually in reverse or when it says its in reverse its actually in neutral. It's not a big problem but in order to read the transmission codes we need it to all be lined up properly. we've messed with it quite a bit trying to get it to line up properly but haven't had and luck. I might just take it to someone to look at it and see if they can figure it out but if you have any idea how to fix that it would be nice to know instead of having to take it somewhere

tinyturbo10 wrote:it still cuts out almost like a fuel cut or something like that when i press on the gas even a little bit.

That's MAP sensor/ Pressure Exchange Solenoid. Check the vacuum line coming off the intake runner, going to the passenger side strut tower and into the brown sensor. Then the line from the brown sensor into the black MAP sensor. If those lines are cracked or broken it will cut fuel at any engine load.



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tinyturbo10 wrote:also we are having problems with the trans lining up properly like it says its in park but its actually in reverse or when it says its in reverse its actually in neutral. It's not a big problem but in order to read the transmission codes we need it to all be lined up properly. we've messed with it quite a bit trying to get it to line up properly but haven't had and luck. I might just take it to someone to look at it and see if they can figure it out but if you have any idea how to fix that it would be nice to know instead of having to take it somewhere

Have you tried adjusting the cable and inhibitor switch under the car?

What year and model is the replacement transmission from?

Josh we have tried adjusting the two nuts by/underneath the shifter to loosen/tighten the slack to the cable where it connects to the knob selector on passenger side trans. Also the trans is from a 93 turbo wagon


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It's weird josh, we've done everything we have always done for my auto replacement which went smoothly. Once we replace the knock sensor with a good one and check the purge exchange/map sensors (I have extras) we will report back but I still can't get the trans to line up with the gear shifter inside is saying


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Hmmm, that's weird. If you move the inhibitor switch by hand, do you feel the indents for each gear?

I had a guy come look at it to see if he could get everything lined up properly on the transmission and he was able to so that problem is solved. Now it doesn't cut out anymore but after i read the transmission codes 11-15, 21, 24, and 32 are flashing.

Have you tried clearing the codes after this guy was able to get the inhibitor switch lined up?

I haven't. How do you clear transmission codes?

So I figured out that one of the plugs for the wire harness came loose thats why so many of the codes were going off, but codes 13 and 15 are still flashing and it is stuck in second gear. It doesn't shift at all. I know that codes 13 and 15 are both shift solenoids and i have an old transmission i can use to swap the solenoids from but i don't know where they are located in order to do so. If you have a diagram or something like that that can show me where they are so i can swap them that would be great otherwise if you know where they are that would help too.

Firstly,

To clear the transmission codes, pull fuse 14 EGI/TCU for about an hour

Check out these instructions/diagrams; they should have the info you need.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... ation1.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... ation2.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... ation3.jpg

The diagrams definitely helped, I was able to take the solenoids off the other transmission. I'm going to swap them out tomorrow with the one thats in my car right now and see if that helps. If its still not working and giving me problems after that I'm just going to say screw auto transmissions and find a manual transmission to put in. Not as many electrical parts to mess with then.

Sounds good. Let us know how it turns out.