If you haven't done a ball joint, here's one simple method..
Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 7:26 am
Hey everyone. So today I replaced both front ball joints, along with both inner and outer tie rods. I figured I'd post this on here for the people who haven't actually done this job quite yet, so they can at least get a basic idea of what's involved with it. In this thread I'm really only going to focus on the ball joints, as they are unique when it comes to Subaru's. The tie rods, on the other hand, are pretty much exactly the same as other cars I've worked on, so there's nothing really special there. Anyway, in addition to my pics, I've got a video showing one specific method I like to use to separate the joint from the LCA. Some people probably already do something like that, or have another preferred method - which is great! I'm not trying to step on toes, rather, I'm just showing another way to go about things. 
So, to get started, obviously remove your wheel. As you can see below, my control arm and balljoint hardware is stupid rusted, so it can be tough to work through things. Anyway, first spray things down with your choice of rusty hardware penetrating oil. Next, unbolt the sway bar from the LCA - you want to do this so the suspension can articulate independently of the other side. Now, remove the pin from the balljoint castle nut, then LOOSEN the nut itself (don't remove it just yet).
(you may need to get creative to get the pin out if it's rusted as bad as mine. I used a hammer while squeezing with needle nose pliers. gently tap on the pliers to try and pop it forward)
(Lastly, break that nut loose and loosen it. You don't have to remove it just yet.)
Now comes to actually separating the balljoint from the control arm. You have a few ways of going about this, you could pound on the sides of the control arm itself where it meets up with the ball joint, you can use a balljoint separator tool, or you can use something like a pickling fork and pound the shit out of it with a hammer. There may be other ways as well, but this is how I usually do it.
I made a video: http://youtu.be/1PuAfrslkvY
Next up, you want to separate the balljoint from the knuckle/spindle. This can either be super easy, or a huge pain in the ass. The good thing is, you can still use the above method I show in the video to separate it. Just make sure you remove the pinch bolt first, and re-tighten your castle nut (doesn't have to be very tight).
(pinch bolt removed)
(using the method I showed above in the video, the balljoint is now separated)
(now, either tap it side to side with a hammer, or just use a pickling fork to bring it down further until it's out)
Installation is essentially reverse of removal. First, clean out the receptor in which the ball joint fits in. Next, apply a thin layer of grease or anti-seize on the mating surface. Now, put the balljoint in. It may go all the way in with just your hands, or you may have to give it a few love taps with the hammer to get it up in there (be gentle if you use a hammer!!!). Once it is fully seated, put in your pinch bolt. You may have to keep holding it up in order to get the pinch bolt in (like I had to). Once your pinch bolt is in, torque it down to spec (I think it was something like 31 to 43 ft-lbs?). Once that's in, slide your LCA back on, put on the castle nut, torque it down, and put in your pin.
And lastly, here you can see my new tie rod (inner + outer, plus new bellows) I put in. I also included a picture of the old hardware I replaced. The steering feels substantially better! Also, I'm not hearing any more knocking/clunking in the suspension area. Excellent.
I hope this helps someone out who's looking to replace their ball joint(s)! Thanks for reading/watching.
So, to get started, obviously remove your wheel. As you can see below, my control arm and balljoint hardware is stupid rusted, so it can be tough to work through things. Anyway, first spray things down with your choice of rusty hardware penetrating oil. Next, unbolt the sway bar from the LCA - you want to do this so the suspension can articulate independently of the other side. Now, remove the pin from the balljoint castle nut, then LOOSEN the nut itself (don't remove it just yet).
(you may need to get creative to get the pin out if it's rusted as bad as mine. I used a hammer while squeezing with needle nose pliers. gently tap on the pliers to try and pop it forward)
(Lastly, break that nut loose and loosen it. You don't have to remove it just yet.)
Now comes to actually separating the balljoint from the control arm. You have a few ways of going about this, you could pound on the sides of the control arm itself where it meets up with the ball joint, you can use a balljoint separator tool, or you can use something like a pickling fork and pound the shit out of it with a hammer. There may be other ways as well, but this is how I usually do it.
I made a video: http://youtu.be/1PuAfrslkvY
Next up, you want to separate the balljoint from the knuckle/spindle. This can either be super easy, or a huge pain in the ass. The good thing is, you can still use the above method I show in the video to separate it. Just make sure you remove the pinch bolt first, and re-tighten your castle nut (doesn't have to be very tight).
(pinch bolt removed)
(using the method I showed above in the video, the balljoint is now separated)
(now, either tap it side to side with a hammer, or just use a pickling fork to bring it down further until it's out)
Installation is essentially reverse of removal. First, clean out the receptor in which the ball joint fits in. Next, apply a thin layer of grease or anti-seize on the mating surface. Now, put the balljoint in. It may go all the way in with just your hands, or you may have to give it a few love taps with the hammer to get it up in there (be gentle if you use a hammer!!!). Once it is fully seated, put in your pinch bolt. You may have to keep holding it up in order to get the pinch bolt in (like I had to). Once your pinch bolt is in, torque it down to spec (I think it was something like 31 to 43 ft-lbs?). Once that's in, slide your LCA back on, put on the castle nut, torque it down, and put in your pin.
And lastly, here you can see my new tie rod (inner + outer, plus new bellows) I put in. I also included a picture of the old hardware I replaced. The steering feels substantially better! Also, I'm not hearing any more knocking/clunking in the suspension area. Excellent.
I hope this helps someone out who's looking to replace their ball joint(s)! Thanks for reading/watching.
