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So basically I'm pretty new to cars in general, but not overly illiterate. I just got my hands on a really well kept (for it's age) '92 5mt ej22t sedan. Yes I have scooby fever and yes I'm already very excited. No, just because I'm young doesn't mean I'm gonna throw a fart can on it and install a sub for my neighbors.
I'm getting a few codes pop up which seem to interlink but I'll get to that.
I lose torque at about 3500rpm in first gear, then I get hesitation on and off through 2nd, 3rd and probably 4th (I'm trying to baby this thing)
It almost feels like my turbo gives up a bit but the turbo is good, I'm assured.
The codes I'm getting are;
24- air control valve
33- vehicle speed sensor
35- canister purge solenoid valve
45- atmospheric pressure sensor.

It sort of seems to me and my buddies that there's a vacuum line fault somewhere and the loss of power is a fuel cut, probably from a lack of positive pressure?
I'm not sure though, I'd just like to know everyone's thoughts before I go ripping out every line and replacing them.

This forum is absolutely awesome too you guys, I haven't got much sleep for the past couple of weeks due to reading what you guys have to say until 4am. Hahaha.

Hi and Welcome!

Is the speedo working normally? You've probably read that where the speedo cable connects to the tranny can break. The 33 code is the one I'd diagnose 1st, fix it, reset/clear the ECU (if possible) and see what comes back.

GL,
TD

45 will cause fuel cut for sure too.

The speedo cable just got replaced and seems to work fine. But it's possible because the guy I bought it from (who installed it) said he had issues as it's a plastic housing or something?
I've never done one myself so I'd be lying if I said I had a clue.
I just took it for a spin around and it seems to idle harder when my clutch isn't engaged.
The slave cylinder had to be bled due to it grabbing a bit, it also doesn't drop rpm at a usual rate when changing gear etc.
I'm not sure how it all links, I'm gonna replace all the vaccum lines though, for sure.

Can you post a picture of your vacuum lines for us, specifically the turbo sensors on the passenger strut tower. Also include where they go on your engine.

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The codes are from the BLACK connectors, then? Have you tried resetting/clearing the ECU codes w/the green connectors? The 33 is likely an 'old' code if they haven't been cleared...but isn't likely causing your issues if the speedo works.

Check the lines - yeah, they'll seem like a lot - but my friend's carbed, non-turbo Honda has more.

TD

^oh man, those are something else...

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I'll post some photos in the light in the morning, it's 1am in sunny sunny Canada.
Yeah the codes are from the black connectors. I'll try clearing them and take it for a drive in the morning. It's still pretty hard to differentiate between clutch grab and fuel cut, probably because I've never experienced fuel cut before so Im not sure how violent it is.
I'll post you some photos and let you guys know in about 5 hours haha. Thanks for your responses guys, I hope I can get her sorted out.

Not 100% on what you wanted to see ao I hope this helps. Pretty much all the lines are held on my tie wrap from previous work.

Now to figure out how to post photos on here.

You need to use a site lile photobucket or imgur

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I hope these work.

I'm not sure what will be alright to just sit snug on the hose and what needs a wraparound clip. So it's a bit of a mysery for me as to what is wrong and what isnt. Haha ah help

Those 2 vac lines look correct. The brown sensor is the pressure exchange solenoid (pes), black sensor is manifold absolute pressure (map) and the silvet sensor is the boost control solenoid (bcs)

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Thanks man, I'm just swapping a few things out on it now then I'm gonna go reset the codes and see what comes back. It's very possible thst the speed sensor code wasn't cleared and is just banked.

I'm gonna install my boost gauge to see if there's a spike in boost or loss or something to see if that's causing a fuel cut.

The MAP and PES have gone bad for me before, I have a BCS/PES/MAP sensor if you need them.

So I replace a cracked line, install a boost guage, clear codes... gain new codes.

I now have 22, 24, 33, 35, 45 and 49
It doesn't drive any different and everything I touched got put back as it was.
Shall I just set it on fire orrrrr?

Are those codes the ones that come back after you reset the ecu? Or are they stored + new.

Yeah they're stored + new.
22, 24, 33, 35, 45 and 49.

Reset using the plugs and post what comes back.

That's what I did. When I reset I gained more codes somehow.

Reset codes again and the same again. Airflow isn't my car's friend right now I guess

So after installing my boost gauge I see that sometimes it feels very ordinary and spools to 10psi, without issues and sounds healthy. Then it will just decide to max out at 6psi. I'm not sure what causes the trip but it's beyond me what it is thinking. Any ideas?