legacycentral bbs

Don't know how to start this besides I am new here, have done a ton of reading past issues, and just can't seem to find that last little bit to get me where I need to be.

Backstory. Bought a 1993 legacy wagon 161xxx, at, awd, na, a about a moth ago, have been plugging away at the codes to get it run correctly. Has a new engine temp sensor, o2 sensor, bypassed the purge canister with a resistor, cleaned the maf, and checked the ohms on the tps, and new ngk plugs.

There is still just a bit of hesitation, from idle to wot, is sputters. When idling, is fluctuates from 650 to 900 rpm, seems like an ocilation. But when you romp on it when it is doing that, seems to sputter on its way to 3000 rpm, after it clears that it seems to clean up.

Would love to find the last piece of the puzzle, and have it run like it should.

I did notice last night that when I pulled the maf, it died right away, I did manage to get it restarted, and it ran wicked, awd burn outs! That is why I cleaned the maf today with maf cleaner, tried to duplicate that tonight and could not get it to start without the maf connected. It is not throwing any codes as of now, the cel is on but cannot get it to throw anything anymore. It comes up with the o2 sometimes, but not that often, and it has a new Bosch o2.

Anyone have any thoughts I am willing to give it a shot.


Thanks,
Eli

have you checked the idle air control valve? i had a similar hesitation and it turned out to be from a kinked hose to my iacv.

I soaked the iacv with sea foam last night, worked better for a while but back to jumping from 500 to 750 rpm. When I put it in gear it has enough load to kill it when it is idling like that. I will most likely pull it and hand clean it next, just trying to find a gasket in case I ruin mine during disassembly.

I also checked the injectors they all had 11.4 ohms. I also went through and checked out the tps sensor. It was set up to open up on pins 1&2 at .035 inches. I read that it was .036that it was supposed to kick out, I don't know that .001 is making a difference? I could be wrong.

It just seems like it drops a cylinder at wot until around 3000 rpm. Unles I pump the accelator.
I did manage to break my pcv valve connector, so am now waiting on one to come from the dealer.
For what it's worth the previous owner also put in a new fuel pump and filter at some time before I bought it also.
Will continue reading old posts and see if I can find another similar issue.

If anyone has any other suggestions please feel free to let me know.

If I can't get anywhere in the next month I think I am just going to part it out and be rid of the headache, she's not a real looker anyway, just wanted to have a good car for the winter.

Thanks

What about your throttle position sensor?

I did the tps test out with the iac valve soak. It was just a touch off at pin 1&2 test out at .035. The rest was close according to the spec, as fat as throttling up and down with an ohm gage, no big jumps or anything.

Welcome to the BBS.

You mention the CEL is on, is that correct? When you pull the codes with the black diagnostic connectors what comes up? Have you tried running the active diagnostic mode with the green diagnostic connectors? I'd suggest doing that.

If you can find a spare MAF for cheap or borrow someone's or see if a junkyard will let you try it out in the parking lot before buying it, I'd also try that.

I have gone through and corrected all the issues with the active codes. I have not cleared the stored codes, since I am having issues with being able to road test it, or letting it run without touching the throttle. I have also run active diagnostic code, does not bring anything up. I have let it tun for over 10 minutes with the green connectors, and have came up empty handed.

As far as I know, I am no longer throwing codes.

I am looking for another maf, but on the other hand I am hesitant to purchase another since the previous owner just changed it out with a rebuilt one purchased from Amazon. It looks new but cannot be 100% anyway to test the maf with a multimeter?

Pull fuse 14 for about an hour. That should reset the ECU.

This is the best I can give you as far as testing the MAF, but I don't know if I would say you can conclusively decide the MAF is good or bad from that. If you do test something that is outside of the parameter you will know, and it will also likely throw a code. However, most of the time they are slightly off and look ok, but give you issues.

Also, you really can't "rebuild" a MAF sensor....so It's possible someone just cleaned an old sensor up and resold it.

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... sting1.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... sting2.jpg

This is what the P.O. Told me he purchased.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C4 ... UTF8&psc=1

Good, bad or ugly, I don't know.


I appricate the scans, gives me something to tinker with. I am waiting on the pcv t, I broke it when tinkering around.

The junk yard an hour away has a maf for $50, might have to make a little road trip then. Will see if they still have it.


Thanks For the help Josh!

The MAF "should" be alright, but see if you can test it following the info in those scans.

You're welcome; glad to help!

Did the maf checking, things seemed to check out as far as ranges. Took it for a quick road test with both connectors on, ran really bad, got almost back home and started throwing code 32. I don't get it, I just replaced the o2 last week with a new Bosch one. I am really at a loss of why it is acting up. Tps sensor checks out, maf, checks out, iac was quick cleaned and should work ok. I put a new pcv connector in it so it's not fighting that anymore.

Have you checked all of the line connections in the engine compartment. This sounds similar to a vacuum leak.

It's interesting that spraying seafoam around the IAC seemed to help the situation. I'd look around the IAC area for cracked, broken or missing hoses.

*edit* - There are a few hoses under the black plastic intake tube that are pretty well hidden, I'd also make sure you check these.

One additional thing I would check is the coil pack resistance.


As far as the O2 sensor is concerned, I think Josh has a reference for an O2 circuit test on his site..

I believe all the hoses going into the intake tube are connected and good. I have pulled the intake a couple of times, to change the PCV valve connector and also to change the temp sensor. They all held what pressure I could put on them from plugging them and blowing into them. They all seem pliable and have the clamps on them still.

I only did the iac soak, didn't spray anything, by doing that, I pulled the hose off of the intake tube and poured seafoam into it and let it soak for a day, then put the hose back on.

I'll read up on the o2 testing next. I have no idea why it's throwing that code. The o2 sensor is brand new got it two weeks ago.

Will also check the coil pack next.

I did pull the new plugs and double checked gap. Was to spec .040
The bases seemed really black sooty and the tops seemed really white, smelled really gassy, makes me wonder if my problem is over fueling, during my test drive it seemed to load up, running on 3 cyl. Until it downshifted, backfired through the air box, then ran good for a block or two. Then did the same thing a few more times.

It's unlikely that it would straighten out at higher RPM but I would also pull both side timing covers and make sure everything is lined up properly. Backfiring through the intake is a tell tale sign of being off time.

Regarding the O2 sensor code. If you know the O2 sensor is good, then I'd check the wiring. If the wiring is bad, it could be causing the ECU to read things improperly and bad fuel trims.

Try unplugging the O2 sensor and resetting the ECU. Then try driving around without the O2 sensor plugged in to see if the "default" fuel table without the O2 sensor feedback runs any better.