legacycentral bbs

I have read several posts on this forum as well as several others, and people say that a LHD pedal box will not work for a RHD car and vice versa.

Can anyone tell me why? Not having much luck finding a RHD set.

From ebay:

RHD:



LHD:


They are shaped different - the LHD has the gas pedal much further to the right. Bolt pattern would be different by necessity too.

That RHD setup is available here: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Subaru-Impre ... 3f1f4f820e

I don't know if the LHD clutch pedal is interchangeable.

edit: this one includes clutch:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUBARU-IMPRE ... 2a46c763ec

Oh man thanks so much! The second link for the $65 set would work right? Does it matter if it's from a hydrolic or cable trans vehicle?

The second one would work in your legacy. It is a hydraulic setup, so it'll work with a pre-2006 5mt turbo tranny, or even an ej25 based hydro tranny If you wanted to run a cable tranny, you'd need a different RHD clutch pedal.

I'd encourage you to email the seller and get a shipping quote first, as the amount displayed on my screen couldn't possibly be right.

i actually am planning on putting a five speed manual from a 96 legacy. I believe it is also a cable tranny but someone please correct me if I'm wrong. If that is the case I should just keep it cable, right? Pedal sets must be different whether hydro/cable too I would think.

I probably should have mentioned my car is RHD I guess I didn't make it clear in the original post

The brake/gas RHD pedals will work. Clutch pedal has to be matched to actuation style... However, you can convert your 96 (all n/a that year were cable style) tranny to utilize hydro.

How much of a pain is it, and what are the benefits? I don't mind converting if there are compelling reasons

The biggest reason is it's pretty unlikely you'll find an RHD cable clutch pedal for sale. Not saying impossible, but the demand really isn't there.

All you need to convert to hydraulic:
-usdm (turbo or N/a) hydraulic master cylinder and N/A slave cylinder
-usdm n/a hydraulic clutch fork.
-usdm hydraulic hose that connects the two cylinders. N/A's hose is longer and what I recommend.

In the bellhousing of your '96 tranny, move the pivot ball to the other hole.

Done!

The n/a clutch kit for a cable tranny works perfect in a hydraulic setup.

Of course if you find an RHD cable clutch pedal then the above isn't necessary, saving some time and money.

mike-tracy wrote:The biggest reason is it's pretty unlikely you'll find an RHD cable clutch pedal for sale. Not saying impossible, but the demand really isn't there.

All you need to convert to hydraulic:
-usdm (turbo or N/a) hydraulic master cylinder and N/A slave cylinder
-usdm n/a hydraulic clutch fork.
-usdm hydraulic hose that connects the two cylinders. N/A's hose is longer and what I recommend.

In the bellhousing of your '96 tranny, move the pivot ball to the other hole.

Done!

The n/a clutch kit for a cable tranny works perfect in a hydraulic setup.

Of course if you find an RHD cable clutch pedal then the above isn't necessary, saving some time and money.

Ah, I see. I am buying some parts from this gentleman and he said he would sell me his pedal set for $50:

http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums/sho ... 3-RS-Wagon

My main concern is figuring out which (if any) of the parts you mentioned me needing above would be RHD specific. If nothing else wouldn't the clutch master cylinder be on the opposite side of the car for me? Leading me to believe I would need a RHD specific part, right?

The slave will be the same as usdm - I've reused the ones that came with the 3 JDM trsnnies I bought. I don't know the answer if the LHD master cylinder will work.

So since I will be buying a master cylinder anyway is there any reason I can't replace with this:



It is the same cost as an OEM replacement and better looking.

If it's the same as pictured, the mounting holes are different than ours. Those are vertical, ours are horizontal. To bolt that up it'd have to be rotated 90 degrees resulting in fluid leaking out and air getting into the line.

cj91legss wrote:If it's the same as pictured, the mounting holes are different than ours. Those are vertical, ours are horizontal. To bolt that up it'd have to be rotated 90 degrees resulting in fluid leaking out and air getting into the line.

I would have to make a bracket which is super easy. Other than that it would work just fine right?

Any sort of bracket could throw off the length of the rod inside I would imagine. As far as dimensions and measurements you would have to cross reference the two.

I just did this swap in my wagon. What year is yours?