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mike-tracy wrote:clear the codes and see what comes back

mike-tracy wrote:What procedure did you use to reset the codes? Sometimes code 35 causes you to not be able to clear the other ones. Is the purge valve connected electrically and are its vacuum lines routed properly and not cracked or leaking?

vrg3 wrote:Dave, I'd definitely suggest using the method on your web page. Some ECUs (I don't know about any particular ones) do store trouble codes in nonvolatile or semi-nonvolatile memory, so a battery disconnection doesn't delete them.

There's also a bonus with the "proper" memory clearing procedure: it has a self-diagnostic built in. Basically, the ECU does some active checks for problems. Only if the problems are actually gone will it clear the codes. If your neutral switch is missing, but the other problems aren't still there, it should clear the other codes, I think.

It's not as complicated as the instructions sound. Just hook up both sets of connectors (the green pair and the black pair), and turn the ignition on. You'll hear various solenoids cycle and stuff as the car tests them. Then start the engine and drive for a while normally. The CEL start blinking after a while.

If it's making 1-second long blinks about a second apart, then the codes are cleared. If it's blinking a trouble code, then it still found that problem.

mike-tracy wrote:It's 160hp when stock, so it feels pretty close to an outback, Forester or other ej25 subaru, with torque coming on sooner.

Have you driven around with just the green connectors attached? That will show you just the active codes.

I think it's worth a shot to try clearing codes the official way, using the test connectors. Legacy777 also mentions pulling a power relay to clear codes, but I don't remember which one.

mike-tracy wrote:

vrg3 wrote:Dave, I'd definitely suggest using the method on your web page. Some ECUs (I don't know about any particular ones) do store trouble codes in nonvolatile or semi-nonvolatile memory, so a battery disconnection doesn't delete them.

There's also a bonus with the "proper" memory clearing procedure: it has a self-diagnostic built in. Basically, the ECU does some active checks for problems. Only if the problems are actually gone will it clear the codes. If your neutral switch is missing, but the other problems aren't still there, it should clear the other codes, I think.

It's not as complicated as the instructions sound. Just hook up both sets of connectors (the green pair and the black pair), and turn the ignition on. You'll hear various solenoids cycle and stuff as the car tests them. Then start the engine and drive for a while normally. The CEL start blinking after a while.

If it's making 1-second long blinks about a second apart, then the codes are cleared. If it's blinking a trouble code, then it still found that problem.

mike-tracy wrote:Since only code 35 came on during the active test, that's the only one you actually have (or at least, the only one the ecu sees for now). Some ecu's won't erase the other codes until it's cleared, and yours seems to be one of those.

Check the vacuum reference guide here:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=15268

Make sure all the vacuum lines coming off the purge control solenoid (PCS), as well as to and from the charcoal canister are hooked up correctly, and have no cracks or pinhole leaks. Make sure the PCS is plugged in. After you've checked all that and replaced hoses as needed, and done the active diagnostics mode again, if you still have the code your PCS may be bad.