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I am amazed there is nothing online about it. IT IS NOT UNDER THE SEAT. You flip the seat backs down and remove the screws that hold the trunk carpet to the seat back, and then pull that carpet up and to the rear of car.

Now what I really need is the connector pin out descriptions for the fuel pump connector, to use a test light. For some reason a pdf will not work with adobe right now, the fuel pump is the important project not trying to fix the computer. Also what is a good way to drain off some fuel? Is there a valve in the tank filler that will not allow a hose to be pulled back out? Thanks all.

I would think you could just insert the hose through the filler neck in order to suck out some fuel. To remove the hose I could see you needing to lift the flapper with a skinny screwdriver or something.

So if you have 3/4 tank of fuel and your driveway is slopped a bit and the front of the car is pointing down hill, its okay to remove the fuel pump.
The fuel pump is on the passenger side of a normal US left driver car.
The most difficult part of the whole job is finding a replacement pump, the ones that most auto parts stores have are all very small and almost half the size. And the ones I saw have blade type electrical connectors, yeah not smart having those in gasoline. And the crazy prices for basically the wrong part too boot. And before trying to remove the pump I tried a small hose on a manual transfer pump that most all parts places sell, and put the hose down the
filler the place under your gas cap, it would not go into the tank so there must be a baffle way down in that stops it from going into the tank.
I ended up not draining a thing to remove the pump. Still no new pump yet.

The replacement pumps should be much smaller, I put in a Walbro 255 last week and its about half the size of the original. Why are blade connectors a bad idea to have in gas?

Here's a good thread on the Walbro pump. It's about the same price as a stock replacement.
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=39500&hilit=walbro+255

Here are links to the fuel pump diagrams.

https://main.experiencetherave.com/suba ... pdiag1.jpg
https://main.experiencetherave.com/suba ... pdiag2.jpg

That is from my 90 factory manual. You can get more info from the 92 scans (info should be the same)

https://main.experiencetherave.com/suba ... lectrical)

Its not that the replacement pumps should be smaller than the original. It just happens that some are made that way and pump about half the amount that the original will. Really you ask why blade connectors would be bad in a gasoline environment? Just if for some reason they or one came off and or got corrosion skin on them and arced, some bad things could happen. Oh and to prove what I say, you will never find any kind of unrestrained electrical connector in an aircraft application. So far the first pump ordered from amazon was the right size and all the stuff with it looked nothing like what was in the picture on the site. So to get the thing on the road, I did the junk yard thing, and now it lives. Oh and I hope your walbro pump didn't cost as much as a stock one, at about $400. per a shop. And thanks for the jpg's Josh.

On a side note, a call to one independent shop, they would not install an after market one because of liability issues. Sorry but its a very volatile condition in that tank especially with an almost empty tank, its something that you don't want to chance. The factory pump has screws with nuts holding the wires to the pump, no slip on connectors.

Yes really I asked why blade connectors would be bad in gas. I apologize for wanting to learn something about cars. Also, the Walbro was $80.

I'm glad you got it running! Hope it wasn't too much of a pain in the ass.

icrman wrote: ↑Wed Jan 22, 2020 9:47 am Really you ask why blade connectors would be bad in a gasoline environment? Just if for some reason they or one came off and or got corrosion skin on them and arced, some bad things could happen. Oh and to prove what I say, you will never find any kind of unrestrained electrical connector in an aircraft application.

Actually, it's not as bad as you are making it out to be.....You have limits to which an ignition will happen; you need to be above the lower explosion limit (LEL) or below the upper explosion limit (UEL) to get combustion. Under normal operating conditions your fuel tank is not going to have any or much oxygen in it. So the environment will be above the UEL. You can create a spark and nothing is going to happen because there's no oxygen.

I would agree that the standards/requirements for aircraft are probably a lot more strict and rightfully so due to the additional risk. Bottom line is I wouldn't have any issues using the stock spade connectors.

A resurrection of this thread. The old junk yard pump has been slowing dying, so got one from Auto zone that was the proper 2 inch diameter, the connections on the pump are threaded studs, the negative side was a bit larger so I had to cut and replace the eye connector with one that had a larger hole. All worked good except for one of the crappy spring type hose clamps included did not fit tight on the hose at the tubing side, fuel pump side was fine. Just wondering what the next problem will be with the old junker.

So, to resurrect this thread yet again. My '93 FWD wagon was giving me hard starts after sitting and now won't start. Runs great on starting fluid. I unplugged the hose going into the filter and nothing came out when cranking so I'm pretty sure it's either fuel or electrical leading to the pump.

Rockauto lists 1.5" and 2" diameter pumps. Are they both compatible with my sending unit? Is there any reason to prefer one or the other?

Before you order a new pump you may want to connect the green diagnostic connectors which will cycle the relays and cause the fuel pump to cycle on and off.

As for the size, I'm not sure which one is the correct one to fit the stock sender unit.

You're talking about under the column where all the diagnostic connectors are right?

Yes

If they're not all on one side, check the other side of the steering column as well.

I replaced the pump, runs great now. The OEM sending unit is impressively high quality.

Glad to hear you got it running!