legacycentral bbs

ok, heres the skinny of what i did... dont follow my lead.... well some of
it was ok, but not the resivoir part... here goes..

after removal of the stock slovic "ricola" plenumn i noticed tah, as you
noticed the outlet of the turbo points up, not out, SO i made a little elbow
out of radiator hose with a joining pipe that fit nicely. the BOV (which you
probally have on the turbo to IC pipe really makes it hard to fit as all the
EGR stuff is there and needs to be rerouted, heres how: they are routed into
the preturbo elbow via this pipe coming outa god knows where on the engine.
pop these two hoses off this pipe and from the elbow. disconnect the TPS EGR
and one other wireharness that is there (and probally oil covered, so clean
em!) and move them for now. then turn that plastic hose that is popping up
from the engine about 90deg to the right so it points to the strut tower
instead of the intake ribs. you will need some random hoses to get this
rerouted... along with the BOV hose as well...
AC hose time... disconnect the bracket above the dogbone engine mount and
turn it around, it will be about 2" lower now... the wire harness as well.
there is some sorta thingie something or other that has about six sides and
is about 3" in diameter on a fancy schmancy bracket that i moved and ziptied
elsewhere... as for the coolent resivoir i removed it and used the IC as the
resivoir.... sthis was great until the engine was on and the nice hot
antifreeze ran through it... you might want to get the res from a WRX and
figure something out.... as for the inlet and outlet water lines they will
need to be tucked under other hoses.... and need an IMMEDIATE 90deg bend to
them... any other info??? thats all i remmeber from the trwo days it took
me! ok and the hood scoop cover needs to come off as it will hit and rub it
to death...

mike
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BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com



zZz <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .

I remember that you plumbed the IC into the engine coolant system and
commented that it didn't work very well. If it were in after the
radiator it wouldn't have been bad, but you were probably getting the
nice warm flow from the turbo.

About the AC line, Bill C just stuffed his under the dogbone, but i'm
not sure what you mean when you said to turn a bracket around to make
it 2" lower. The igniter, that "thingy", is mounted on a bracket
that also holds the AC line in on mine. I can't see any way to flip
it or to make it lower, so i'm probably going to follow Bill's lead
there.

I already have a radiator to be installed in the front and i'll get a
pump to circulate water as well. Most of the time it'll be off, but
i'm trying to figure out what to have trigger it.

--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., subaruracer755@c... wrote:
> ok, heres the skinny of what i did... dont follow my lead.... well
some of
> it was ok, but not the resivoir part... here goes..
>
> after removal of the stock slovic "ricola" plenumn i noticed tah,
as you
> noticed the outlet of the turbo points up, not out, SO i made a
little elbow
> out of radiator hose with a joining pipe that fit nicely. the BOV
(which you
> probally have on the turbo to IC pipe really makes it hard to fit
as all the
> EGR stuff is there and needs to be rerouted, heres how: they are
routed into
> the preturbo elbow via this pipe coming outa god knows where on the
engine.
> pop these two hoses off this pipe and from the elbow. disconnect
the TPS EGR
> and one other wireharness that is there (and probally oil covered,
so clean
> em!) and move them for now. then turn that plastic hose that is
popping up
> from the engine about 90deg to the right so it points to the strut
tower
> instead of the intake ribs. you will need some random hoses to get
this
> rerouted... along with the BOV hose as well...
> AC hose time... disconnect the bracket above the dogbone engine
mount and
> turn it around, it will be about 2" lower now... the wire harness
as well.
> there is some sorta thingie something or other that has about six
sides and
> is about 3" in diameter on a fancy schmancy bracket that i moved
and ziptied
> elsewhere... as for the coolent resivoir i removed it and used the
IC as the
> resivoir.... sthis was great until the engine was on and the nice
hot
> antifreeze ran through it... you might want to get the res from a
WRX and
> figure something out.... as for the inlet and outlet water lines
they will
> need to be tucked under other hoses.... and need an IMMEDIATE 90deg
bend to
> them... any other info??? thats all i remmeber from the trwo days
it took
> me! ok and the hood scoop cover needs to come off as it will hit
and rub it
> to death...
>
> mike


To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com

why do you want the pump to be off most of the time? It should run all the
time. Otherwise it will suffer from engine 'heat soak' . There isn't much
point in fitting an intercooler if it's not running..
Rod.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave C" <legacycentral@yahoo.com>
To: <BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2001 9:35 AM
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: air to water IC (long)


> I remember that you plumbed the IC into the engine coolant system and
> commented that it didn't work very well. If it were in after the
> radiator it wouldn't have been bad, but you were probably getting the
> nice warm flow from the turbo.
>
> About the AC line, Bill C just stuffed his under the dogbone, but i'm
> not sure what you mean when you said to turn a bracket around to make
> it 2" lower. The igniter, that "thingy", is mounted on a bracket
> that also holds the AC line in on mine. I can't see any way to flip
> it or to make it lower, so i'm probably going to follow Bill's lead
> there.
>
> I already have a radiator to be installed in the front and i'll get a
> pump to circulate water as well. Most of the time it'll be off, but
> i'm trying to figure out what to have trigger it.
>
> --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., subaruracer755@c... wrote:
> > ok, heres the skinny of what i did... dont follow my lead.... well
> some of
> > it was ok, but not the resivoir part... here goes..
> >
> > after removal of the stock slovic "ricola" plenumn i noticed tah,
> as you
> > noticed the outlet of the turbo points up, not out, SO i made a
> little elbow
> > out of radiator hose with a joining pipe that fit nicely. the BOV
> (which you
> > probally have on the turbo to IC pipe really makes it hard to fit
> as all the
> > EGR stuff is there and needs to be rerouted, heres how: they are
> routed into
> > the preturbo elbow via this pipe coming outa god knows where on the
> engine.
> > pop these two hoses off this pipe and from the elbow. disconnect
> the TPS EGR
> > and one other wireharness that is there (and probally oil covered,
> so clean
> > em!) and move them for now. then turn that plastic hose that is
> popping up
> > from the engine about 90deg to the right so it points to the strut
> tower
> > instead of the intake ribs. you will need some random hoses to get
> this
> > rerouted... along with the BOV hose as well...
> > AC hose time... disconnect the bracket above the dogbone engine
> mount and
> > turn it around, it will be about 2" lower now... the wire harness
> as well.
> > there is some sorta thingie something or other that has about six
> sides and
> > is about 3" in diameter on a fancy schmancy bracket that i moved
> and ziptied
> > elsewhere... as for the coolent resivoir i removed it and used the
> IC as the
> > resivoir.... sthis was great until the engine was on and the nice
> hot
> > antifreeze ran through it... you might want to get the res from a
> WRX and
> > figure something out.... as for the inlet and outlet water lines
> they will
> > need to be tucked under other hoses.... and need an IMMEDIATE 90deg
> bend to
> > them... any other info??? thats all i remmeber from the trwo days
> it took
> > me! ok and the hood scoop cover needs to come off as it will hit
> and rub it
> > to death...
> >
> > mike
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
> BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>
>
>
>


To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Well, this being a low-hp engine, basically trying to reach your
stock level, and after reading the article in Autospeed, i've found
that having it constantly running isn't necessary.

Besides, there's the problem with impeller pumps wearing out and
diaphram pumps being super loud.

Initially at least, i'm going to run it part time.

--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "Rod" <melrod@o...> wrote:
> why do you want the pump to be off most of the time? It should run
all the
> time. Otherwise it will suffer from engine 'heat soak' . There
isn't much
> point in fitting an intercooler if it's not running..
> Rod.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave C" <legacycentral@y...>
> To: <BC-BFLegacyWorks@y...>
> Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2001 9:35 AM
> Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: air to water IC (long)
>
>
> > I remember that you plumbed the IC into the engine coolant system
and
> > commented that it didn't work very well. If it were in after the
> > radiator it wouldn't have been bad, but you were probably getting
the
> > nice warm flow from the turbo.
> >
> > About the AC line, Bill C just stuffed his under the dogbone, but
i'm
> > not sure what you mean when you said to turn a bracket around to
make
> > it 2" lower. The igniter, that "thingy", is mounted on a bracket
> > that also holds the AC line in on mine. I can't see any way to
flip
> > it or to make it lower, so i'm probably going to follow Bill's
lead
> > there.
> >
> > I already have a radiator to be installed in the front and i'll
get a
> > pump to circulate water as well. Most of the time it'll be off,
but
> > i'm trying to figure out what to have trigger it.
> >
> > --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., subaruracer755@c... wrote:
> > > ok, heres the skinny of what i did... dont follow my lead....
well
> > some of
> > > it was ok, but not the resivoir part... here goes..
> > >
> > > after removal of the stock slovic "ricola" plenumn i noticed
tah,
> > as you
> > > noticed the outlet of the turbo points up, not out, SO i made a
> > little elbow
> > > out of radiator hose with a joining pipe that fit nicely. the
BOV
> > (which you
> > > probally have on the turbo to IC pipe really makes it hard to
fit
> > as all the
> > > EGR stuff is there and needs to be rerouted, heres how: they
are
> > routed into
> > > the preturbo elbow via this pipe coming outa god knows where on
the
> > engine.
> > > pop these two hoses off this pipe and from the elbow.
disconnect
> > the TPS EGR
> > > and one other wireharness that is there (and probally oil
covered,
> > so clean
> > > em!) and move them for now. then turn that plastic hose that is
> > popping up
> > > from the engine about 90deg to the right so it points to the
strut
> > tower
> > > instead of the intake ribs. you will need some random hoses to
get
> > this
> > > rerouted... along with the BOV hose as well...
> > > AC hose time... disconnect the bracket above the dogbone engine
> > mount and
> > > turn it around, it will be about 2" lower now... the wire
harness
> > as well.
> > > there is some sorta thingie something or other that has about
six
> > sides and
> > > is about 3" in diameter on a fancy schmancy bracket that i moved
> > and ziptied
> > > elsewhere... as for the coolent resivoir i removed it and used
the
> > IC as the
> > > resivoir.... sthis was great until the engine was on and the
nice
> > hot
> > > antifreeze ran through it... you might want to get the res from
a
> > WRX and
> > > figure something out.... as for the inlet and outlet water lines
> > they will
> > > need to be tucked under other hoses.... and need an IMMEDIATE
90deg
> > bend to
> > > them... any other info??? thats all i remmeber from the trwo
days
> > it took
> > > me! ok and the hood scoop cover needs to come off as it will
hit
> > and rub it
> > > to death...
> > >
> > > mike
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
> > BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >


To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Dave I would rig up a temp sender unit. You want something that when it
gets to a certain temperature, it completes the circuit and allows the pump
to be on, until temp reaches that point to shut off. I don't remember the
technical name of the sensor, I've got a brain fart.

Josh

************************************
Josh Colombo
jcc189@psu.edu <mailto:jcc189@psu.edu>

"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************




-----Original Message-----
From: Dave C [mailto:legacycentral@yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2001 9:25 PM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: air to water IC (long)


Well, this being a low-hp engine, basically trying to reach your
stock level, and after reading the article in Autospeed, i've found
that having it constantly running isn't necessary.

Besides, there's the problem with impeller pumps wearing out and
diaphram pumps being super loud.

Initially at least, i'm going to run it part time.

--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "Rod" <melrod@o...> wrote:
> why do you want the pump to be off most of the time? It should run
all the
> time. Otherwise it will suffer from engine 'heat soak' . There
isn't much
> point in fitting an intercooler if it's not running..
> Rod.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave C" <legacycentral@y...>
> To: <BC-BFLegacyWorks@y...>
> Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2001 9:35 AM
> Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: air to water IC (long)
>
>
> > I remember that you plumbed the IC into the engine coolant system
and
> > commented that it didn't work very well. If it were in after the
> > radiator it wouldn't have been bad, but you were probably getting
the
> > nice warm flow from the turbo.
> >
> > About the AC line, Bill C just stuffed his under the dogbone, but
i'm
> > not sure what you mean when you said to turn a bracket around to
make
> > it 2" lower. The igniter, that "thingy", is mounted on a bracket
> > that also holds the AC line in on mine. I can't see any way to
flip
> > it or to make it lower, so i'm probably going to follow Bill's
lead
> > there.
> >
> > I already have a radiator to be installed in the front and i'll
get a
> > pump to circulate water as well. Most of the time it'll be off,
but
> > i'm trying to figure out what to have trigger it.
> >
> > --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., subaruracer755@c... wrote:
> > > ok, heres the skinny of what i did... dont follow my lead....
well
> > some of
> > > it was ok, but not the resivoir part... here goes..
> > >
> > > after removal of the stock slovic "ricola" plenumn i noticed
tah,
> > as you
> > > noticed the outlet of the turbo points up, not out, SO i made a
> > little elbow
> > > out of radiator hose with a joining pipe that fit nicely. the
BOV
> > (which you
> > > probally have on the turbo to IC pipe really makes it hard to
fit
> > as all the
> > > EGR stuff is there and needs to be rerouted, heres how: they
are
> > routed into
> > > the preturbo elbow via this pipe coming outa god knows where on
the
> > engine.
> > > pop these two hoses off this pipe and from the elbow.
disconnect
> > the TPS EGR
> > > and one other wireharness that is there (and probally oil
covered,
> > so clean
> > > em!) and move them for now. then turn that plastic hose that is
> > popping up
> > > from the engine about 90deg to the right so it points to the
strut
> > tower
> > > instead of the intake ribs. you will need some random hoses to
get
> > this
> > > rerouted... along with the BOV hose as well...
> > > AC hose time... disconnect the bracket above the dogbone engine
> > mount and
> > > turn it around, it will be about 2" lower now... the wire
harness
> > as well.
> > > there is some sorta thingie something or other that has about
six
> > sides and
> > > is about 3" in diameter on a fancy schmancy bracket that i moved
> > and ziptied
> > > elsewhere... as for the coolent resivoir i removed it and used
the
> > IC as the
> > > resivoir.... sthis was great until the engine was on and the
nice
> > hot
> > > antifreeze ran through it... you might want to get the res from
a
> > WRX and
> > > figure something out.... as for the inlet and outlet water lines
> > they will
> > > need to be tucked under other hoses.... and need an IMMEDIATE
90deg
> > bend to
> > > them... any other info??? thats all i remmeber from the trwo
days
> > it took
> > > me! ok and the hood scoop cover needs to come off as it will
hit
> > and rub it
> > > to death...
> > >
> > > mike
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
> > BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >


To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com








To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com

This is what i was thinking of as well, a pyrometer of sorts i guess.

I remember the autospeed intercooling article mentioned a part sold
at spa stores, perhaps i could find one that was temperature
sensitive and would turn on at 120F or so. Then again, i'm not sure
what the standard temperature for the sytem would be. I guess i
should set up a temperature gauge in the system too.

I've almost got it installed, i'm just trying to find the best place
for the radiator (read: easiest place to mount it without removing
the front half of the car), some kind of adapter to get from the
turbo outlet to the IC pipe (nasty bend), and the right sized hoses.

I've done the "dogbone stuff", and it works very well. I hacked off
the bottom left nub and ground it down, and just removed the scoop
block. I wanted to have it done to show off at the ProSolo, but i
think it would be best if i took a little time and did it right this
next week.

Whew.

--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "Josh Colombo" <jcc189@p...> wrote:
> Dave I would rig up a temp sender unit. You want something that
when it
> gets to a certain temperature, it completes the circuit and allows
the pump
> to be on, until temp reaches that point to shut off. I don't
remember the
> technical name of the sensor, I've got a brain fart.
>
> Josh
>
> ************************************
> Josh Colombo
> jcc189@p... <mailto:jcc189@p...>
>
> "Life, an ever-changing melody
> of beats and rhythm" - ME
> ************************************
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave C [mailto:legacycentral@y...]
> Sent: Friday, July 13, 2001 9:25 PM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@y...
> Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: air to water IC (long)
>
>
> Well, this being a low-hp engine, basically trying to reach your
> stock level, and after reading the article in Autospeed, i've found
> that having it constantly running isn't necessary.
>
> Besides, there's the problem with impeller pumps wearing out and
> diaphram pumps being super loud.
>
> Initially at least, i'm going to run it part time.
>
> --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "Rod" <melrod@o...> wrote:
> > why do you want the pump to be off most of the time? It should
run
> all the
> > time. Otherwise it will suffer from engine 'heat soak' . There
> isn't much
> > point in fitting an intercooler if it's not running..
> > Rod.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dave C" <legacycentral@y...>
> > To: <BC-BFLegacyWorks@y...>
> > Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2001 9:35 AM
> > Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: air to water IC (long)
> >
> >
> > > I remember that you plumbed the IC into the engine coolant
system
> and
> > > commented that it didn't work very well. If it were in after
the
> > > radiator it wouldn't have been bad, but you were probably
getting
> the
> > > nice warm flow from the turbo.
> > >
> > > About the AC line, Bill C just stuffed his under the dogbone,
but
> i'm
> > > not sure what you mean when you said to turn a bracket around to
> make
> > > it 2" lower. The igniter, that "thingy", is mounted on a
bracket
> > > that also holds the AC line in on mine. I can't see any way to
> flip
> > > it or to make it lower, so i'm probably going to follow Bill's
> lead
> > > there.
> > >
> > > I already have a radiator to be installed in the front and i'll
> get a
> > > pump to circulate water as well. Most of the time it'll be off,
> but
> > > i'm trying to figure out what to have trigger it.
> > >
> > > --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., subaruracer755@c... wrote:
> > > > ok, heres the skinny of what i did... dont follow my lead....
> well
> > > some of
> > > > it was ok, but not the resivoir part... here goes..
> > > >
> > > > after removal of the stock slovic "ricola" plenumn i noticed
> tah,
> > > as you
> > > > noticed the outlet of the turbo points up, not out, SO i made
a
> > > little elbow
> > > > out of radiator hose with a joining pipe that fit nicely. the
> BOV
> > > (which you
> > > > probally have on the turbo to IC pipe really makes it hard to
> fit
> > > as all the
> > > > EGR stuff is there and needs to be rerouted, heres how: they
> are
> > > routed into
> > > > the preturbo elbow via this pipe coming outa god knows where
on
> the
> > > engine.
> > > > pop these two hoses off this pipe and from the elbow.
> disconnect
> > > the TPS EGR
> > > > and one other wireharness that is there (and probally oil
> covered,
> > > so clean
> > > > em!) and move them for now. then turn that plastic hose that
is
> > > popping up
> > > > from the engine about 90deg to the right so it points to the
> strut
> > > tower
> > > > instead of the intake ribs. you will need some random hoses
to
> get
> > > this
> > > > rerouted... along with the BOV hose as well...
> > > > AC hose time... disconnect the bracket above the dogbone
engine
> > > mount and
> > > > turn it around, it will be about 2" lower now... the wire
> harness
> > > as well.
> > > > there is some sorta thingie something or other that has about
> six
> > > sides and
> > > > is about 3" in diameter on a fancy schmancy bracket that i
moved
> > > and ziptied
> > > > elsewhere... as for the coolent resivoir i removed it and
used
> the
> > > IC as the
> > > > resivoir.... sthis was great until the engine was on and the
> nice
> > > hot
> > > > antifreeze ran through it... you might want to get the res
from
> a
> > > WRX and
> > > > figure something out.... as for the inlet and outlet water
lines
> > > they will
> > > > need to be tucked under other hoses.... and need an IMMEDIATE
> 90deg
> > > bend to
> > > > them... any other info??? thats all i remmeber from the trwo
> days
> > > it took
> > > > me! ok and the hood scoop cover needs to come off as it will
> hit
> > > and rub it
> > > > to death...
> > > >
> > > > mike
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
> > > BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
> BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/


To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Dave,
you wrote "Then again, i'm not sure
what the standard temperature for the sytem would be."

Dave, there is no std temp. You want it running as cold as possible. It is
not like an engine that requires to be at a certain temp, hence thermostat.
The std water/air intercooler on my Liberty runs constantly with no temp
control. Even after a long periods of idling (no cool air for the
intercooler radiator) the intercooler is still cool because the water is
always circulating, disapating heat constantly. This is why there is less
engine 'heat soak' compared to the air/air intercooler on the wrx.
Regards, Rod

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave C" <legacycentral@yahoo.com>
To: <BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2001 2:32 PM
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: air to water IC (long)


> This is what i was thinking of as well, a pyrometer of sorts i guess.
>
> I remember the autospeed intercooling article mentioned a part sold
> at spa stores, perhaps i could find one that was temperature
> sensitive and would turn on at 120F or so. > should set up a temperature
gauge in the system too.
>
> I've almost got it installed, i'm just trying to find the best place
> for the radiator (read: easiest place to mount it without removing
> the front half of the car), some kind of adapter to get from the
> turbo outlet to the IC pipe (nasty bend), and the right sized hoses.
>
> I've done the "dogbone stuff", and it works very well. I hacked off
> the bottom left nub and ground it down, and just removed the scoop
> block. I wanted to have it done to show off at the ProSolo, but i
> think it would be best if i took a little time and did it right this
> next week.
>
> Whew.
>
> --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "Josh Colombo" <jcc189@p...> wrote:
> > Dave I would rig up a temp sender unit. You want something that
> when it
> > gets to a certain temperature, it completes the circuit and allows
> the pump
> > to be on, until temp reaches that point to shut off. I don't
> remember the
> > technical name of the sensor, I've got a brain fart.
> >
> > Josh
> >
> > ************************************
> > Josh Colombo
> > jcc189@p... <mailto:jcc189@p...>
> >
> > "Life, an ever-changing melody
> > of beats and rhythm" - ME
> > ************************************
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dave C [mailto:legacycentral@y...]
> > Sent: Friday, July 13, 2001 9:25 PM
> > To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@y...
> > Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: air to water IC (long)
> >
> >
> > Well, this being a low-hp engine, basically trying to reach your
> > stock level, and after reading the article in Autospeed, i've found
> > that having it constantly running isn't necessary.
> >
> > Besides, there's the problem with impeller pumps wearing out and
> > diaphram pumps being super loud.
> >
> > Initially at least, i'm going to run it part time.
> >
> > --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "Rod" <melrod@o...> wrote:
> > > why do you want the pump to be off most of the time? It should
> run
> > all the
> > > time. Otherwise it will suffer from engine 'heat soak' . There
> > isn't much
> > > point in fitting an intercooler if it's not running..
> > > Rod.
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Dave C" <legacycentral@y...>
> > > To: <BC-BFLegacyWorks@y...>
> > > Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2001 9:35 AM
> > > Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: air to water IC (long)
> > >
> > >
> > > > I remember that you plumbed the IC into the engine coolant
> system
> > and
> > > > commented that it didn't work very well. If it were in after
> the
> > > > radiator it wouldn't have been bad, but you were probably
> getting
> > the
> > > > nice warm flow from the turbo.
> > > >
> > > > About the AC line, Bill C just stuffed his under the dogbone,
> but
> > i'm
> > > > not sure what you mean when you said to turn a bracket around to
> > make
> > > > it 2" lower. The igniter, that "thingy", is mounted on a
> bracket
> > > > that also holds the AC line in on mine. I can't see any way to
> > flip
> > > > it or to make it lower, so i'm probably going to follow Bill's
> > lead
> > > > there.
> > > >
> > > > I already have a radiator to be installed in the front and i'll
> > get a
> > > > pump to circulate water as well. Most of the time it'll be off,
> > but
> > > > i'm trying to figure out what to have trigger it.
> > > >
> > > > --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., subaruracer755@c... wrote:
> > > > > ok, heres the skinny of what i did... dont follow my lead....
> > well
> > > > some of
> > > > > it was ok, but not the resivoir part... here goes..
> > > > >
> > > > > after removal of the stock slovic "ricola" plenumn i noticed
> > tah,
> > > > as you
> > > > > noticed the outlet of the turbo points up, not out, SO i made
> a
> > > > little elbow
> > > > > out of radiator hose with a joining pipe that fit nicely. the
> > BOV
> > > > (which you
> > > > > probally have on the turbo to IC pipe really makes it hard to
> > fit
> > > > as all the
> > > > > EGR stuff is there and needs to be rerouted, heres how: they
> > are
> > > > routed into
> > > > > the preturbo elbow via this pipe coming outa god knows where
> on
> > the
> > > > engine.
> > > > > pop these two hoses off this pipe and from the elbow.
> > disconnect
> > > > the TPS EGR
> > > > > and one other wireharness that is there (and probally oil
> > covered,
> > > > so clean
> > > > > em!) and move them for now. then turn that plastic hose that
> is
> > > > popping up
> > > > > from the engine about 90deg to the right so it points to the
> > strut
> > > > tower
> > > > > instead of the intake ribs. you will need some random hoses
> to
> > get
> > > > this
> > > > > rerouted... along with the BOV hose as well...
> > > > > AC hose time... disconnect the bracket above the dogbone
> engine
> > > > mount and
> > > > > turn it around, it will be about 2" lower now... the wire
> > harness
> > > > as well.
> > > > > there is some sorta thingie something or other that has about
> > six
> > > > sides and
> > > > > is about 3" in diameter on a fancy schmancy bracket that i
> moved
> > > > and ziptied
> > > > > elsewhere... as for the coolent resivoir i removed it and
> used
> > the
> > > > IC as the
> > > > > resivoir.... sthis was great until the engine was on and the
> > nice
> > > > hot
> > > > > antifreeze ran through it... you might want to get the res
> from
> > a
> > > > WRX and
> > > > > figure something out.... as for the inlet and outlet water
> lines
> > > > they will
> > > > > need to be tucked under other hoses.... and need an IMMEDIATE
> > 90deg
> > > > bend to
> > > > > them... any other info??? thats all i remmeber from the trwo
> > days
> > > > it took
> > > > > me! ok and the hood scoop cover needs to come off as it will
> > hit
> > > > and rub it
> > > > > to death...
> > > > >
> > > > > mike
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
> > > > BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
> > BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
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>
>
>
>
>


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Jeeeeeze you guys.. I don't read my email for 'bout a week; and it gets all
crazy! Sounds like quite a project you have going on there dave.

>i've found >that having it constantly running isn't necessary.

May i make a suggestion/question? How about a pump that, when it gets more
volts, starts pumping more. I would think that running it at low speed most
of the time, but after it hits a certain temp it kicks in harder; would be
the most beneficial.

Is this the article you're talking about?

http://autospeed.com/A_0090/page1.html

Jason
_________________________________________________________________
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Hehe.

That's the one i'm talking about Jason.

I'd love to find one of these pumps, but none of the imported engines
have them, and i'm sure i'd pay twice the price for a domestic pump
just for a used one.

If anyone in Australia/NZ can source these, i'd consider the split
power version.

--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "jason grahn" <jgrahn555@h...> wrote:
> Jeeeeeze you guys.. I don't read my email for 'bout a week; and it
gets all
> crazy! Sounds like quite a project you have going on there dave.
>
> >i've found >that having it constantly running isn't necessary.
>
> May i make a suggestion/question? How about a pump that, when it
gets more
> volts, starts pumping more. I would think that running it at low
speed most
> of the time, but after it hits a certain temp it kicks in harder;
would be
> the most beneficial.
>
> Is this the article you're talking about?
>
> http://autospeed.com/A_0090/page1.html
>
> Jason
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com


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Dave,
i know MRT performance sell pumps for the water/air intercoolers. I was
going to buy one as mine had a bad noise. It turned out to be a small
bearing which my local auto electrician fixed for me for a total of
around$50.
I know the MRT one isn't cheap, though with the USD you will get it for
around half the price we pay. Check it out on there website.
Regards, Rod... in Oz
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave C" <legacycentral@yahoo.com>
To: <BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2001 1:21 PM
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: air to water IC (long)


> Hehe.
>
> That's the one i'm talking about Jason.
>
> I'd love to find one of these pumps, but none of the imported engines
> have them, and i'm sure i'd pay twice the price for a domestic pump
> just for a used one.
>
> If anyone in Australia/NZ can source these, i'd consider the split
> power version.
>
> --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "jason grahn" <jgrahn555@h...> wrote:
> > Jeeeeeze you guys.. I don't read my email for 'bout a week; and it
> gets all
> > crazy! Sounds like quite a project you have going on there dave.
> >
> > >i've found >that having it constantly running isn't necessary.
> >
> > May i make a suggestion/question? How about a pump that, when it
> gets more
> > volts, starts pumping more. I would think that running it at low
> speed most
> > of the time, but after it hits a certain temp it kicks in harder;
> would be
> > the most beneficial.
> >
> > Is this the article you're talking about?
> >
> > http://autospeed.com/A_0090/page1.html
> >
> > Jason
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
> BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>
>
>
>


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try this place:

http://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?
s=&threadid=39783&highlight=intercooler

he made a pressure switch and the pump only comes on when boost is
sensed and it'll remain on for 3 min after boost so that the pump
will not burn out. i think he burnt out his first pump



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Thanks for that link!

BTW, i'm DLC in the i-club.

--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., kimitsu@h... wrote:
> try this place:
>
> http://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?
> s=&threadid=39783&highlight=intercooler
>
> he made a pressure switch and the pump only comes on when boost is
> sensed and it'll remain on for 3 min after boost so that the pump
> will not burn out. i think he burnt out his first pump



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Well, after relocating the ac line, and hacksawing bits and pieces off
the air-water intercooler, I got it to fit. BUT, not before breaking
off the plastic T's from the coolant resovoir inside their hoses! So,
my question is, is there any way I can replace those T's from
the wall of the coolant tank to the outgoing hoses so I don't have to
buy a whole new tank? I'm soooo close.... Thanks in adavance,
-Zak


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I got an all aluminum one from JC Sports, but i haven't put it on yet.

Call them, i'm sure it's much cheaper than a new/used one, looks
cooler, and will last longer.

--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., nmalbin@t... wrote:
> Well, after relocating the ac line, and hacksawing bits and pieces
off
> the air-water intercooler, I got it to fit. BUT, not before
breaking
> off the plastic T's from the coolant resovoir inside their hoses!
So,
> my question is, is there any way I can replace those T's from
> the wall of the coolant tank to the outgoing hoses so I don't have
to
> buy a whole new tank? I'm soooo close.... Thanks in adavance,
> -Zak


------------------------ ---------------------~-->
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Everything but compact
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I would give up on the tank I have tried epoxy, metal fittings, glue,
and just about everything else I could think of. JC Sports has a
aluminim tank and they can even move the things that always break off
on the plastic tank around to the side like they did for my tank so
they will not run right into the intercooler.
AL





In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., nmalbin@t... wrote:
> Well, after relocating the ac line, and hacksawing bits and pieces
off
> the air-water intercooler, I got it to fit. BUT, not before breaking
> off the plastic T's from the coolant resovoir inside their hoses!
So,
> my question is, is there any way I can replace those T's from
> the wall of the coolant tank to the outgoing hoses so I don't have
to
> buy a whole new tank? I'm soooo close.... Thanks in adavance,
> -Zak


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